HOW TO - Debadge D8 406

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ddoherty406
2.0 16v
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Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 5:36 pm
Location: Derry, Northern Ireland

HOW TO - Debadge D8 406

Post by ddoherty406 »

Ok this is my 1st how to so C&C welcome. I’ve found a lot of people asking how I debadged the 406 grille and asking where to buy it etc. When I decided to debadged my 1st 406 I could only find the debadged grille costing £80 and this still left the hole in the bumper. So I decided id give it ago myself using some info I found about debadging a 306. However as it was my 1st time doing this sort of thing and I rushed it a little and in the end it had a few flaws. So when I got the new 406 I decided to take a few pics along the way for anyone else looking to debadge they’re own. There are a few pics missing due to not wanting to dirty the camera as it wasn’t mine, but ill do my best to explain.

What you will need:

Large flathead screwdriver
13mm socket or spanner
Hacksaw/Grinder
Cheap paint brushes
Latex Gloves
Dust mask
Goggles
Basin or bucket for water
Sanding block

Ridged cardboard
David’s Fastglas Glass Fibre Kit
David’s Isopon P38 Easy Sand
Finishing filler (I can remember the name)
Range of sand paper including wet and dry.

And a bucket of patience!

Step 1 – Remove grille

Pop up the bonnet and you will see either 4 black plastic clips or 4 bolts holding the grille in place. To remove the clips, use the screwdriver to gently pop up the centre of the clips making them easier to pry out. My 1st 406 had 4 13mm bolts and these are simply unscrewed using a socket or spanner.

Next get down to eyelevel with the grille and you will see two clips at either side. Using the screwdriver pry these out and pull the grille towards you ensuring to lift the top in order to clear the bonnet catches.

Clips at either side…

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Step 2 - Cleaning

With the grille removed give it a good clean and the bumper too. You would be best to remove the number plate at this point in order to protect it, however I am putting new ones on so I didn’t mind and it didn’t get in the way to much.

Step 3 – Removing the badge

To remove the badge you will have to unscrew it using a TORX bit and then hacksaw off the extra plastic so that you end up with the grille like in the pic. This doesn’t have to be neat as the fibre glass will cover it. Alternatively you can just use a grinder and remove the badge and plastic in 1 go.

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Step 4 – Fiberglass

At this stage I used the cardboard to make a basic mould to fill the gaps in the grille and bumper. I then glued these in place ensuring they left a small recess of about 5mm to be filled with fiberglass and isopon. (I know this may not be best practice but it worked for someone I know and it worked or me) I then cut the fiberglass sheet about 10mm bigger than the area needed to be covered so that it bonded well to the sides. I then mixed the resin and hardener and quickly brushed this over the cardboard and plastic. Next I laid the fiberglass on top and brushed more over the top.

You may want to practice on something else 1st as it can be tricky, but I did it for my 1st time and it turned out ok. Lol It is best to do the two bits separate as the resin hardens very quickly and can start to get messy.

(Two different hardeners hence the difference in colour.)

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When the fiberglass has fully hardened the next step is to sand it down to smooth it out a bit and remove the excess. This doesn’t have to be perfectly smooth as fillers will be going on top but to make sure to remove any big bumps especially around the edge, as it will not look flush when it’s finished.

As you can see in the pic below I sanded it down a bit too much on the left side but I simply redid this area and ensured the new moulded bit was secured to the plastic and sanded this area down again

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Step 5 – Fillers

Ok don’t make the mistake I did and get the wrong fillers. I was having an off day and picked up the finishing stuff which is for filling small chips etc and despite thinking it was different than last time I had it on before I caught on. The difference is that it’s meant to go on in very then layers and dries in about 20mins. However I piled it on thinking it was the p38 Isopon and for this reason it was very soft for about a week or more and had a load of finger dents in it from me testing it lol. IL put up the pics as it gives you a good idea of where you have to cover with the fillers.

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This didn’t mater to much as I just sanded it down a good bit and went over the top with the p38 Isopon.

To do it correctly mix up the isopon with the hardener in and spread it over the fiberglass area and a good bit on either side so that the new part can be blended in better. When spreading the isopon put a good bit on but try and keep it as smooth as you can and to the general shape of the grille/bumper.

Allow it to dry, (approx 20-30mins on a good dry day) then sand it down using rough sandpaper and a sanding block. You won’t get perfect 1st time, so will need to keep layering up the low bits and taking down the high bits till you get it right.

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I found the best way of working was to put the fillers on the bumper bit, and while this was drying I put the fillers on the grille, I then went back to sanding the bumper and then putting more fillers on it before going back to the grille and so on.

Step 6 – Finishing.

When you have achieved the basic shape of the grille and bumper using the isopon you will notice there are still small holes in it. You now have to sand it down using wet and dry and this will get it very smooth and take out the small holes. In order to fill the smaller holes I used the finishing filler. It’s almost like a gum in texture and is spread on very then and then wet sanded down. You can see this as the darker grey areas in the pics below.

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As you can see in the pics below I have put a coat of paint on it which I had left over as this gave it a glossy finish and made it easier to see any defects. I have since sanded this off again and I am going to get it sprayed professionally this time round.

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This pic shows where the grille cracked on my 1st 406 as I only used fillers and the knock to the bumper made it a lot worse when it flexed. I was grand for a year and a half so I wasn’t to bothered lol

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So that’s all folks. Bear in mind this is my 1st time working with fiberglass and only my second time using fillers so s I said before any advice is welcomed and point out any mistakes in the how to so I can correct them.
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teamster1975
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Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2007 8:07 pm
Location: Woking, Surrey

Re: HOW TO - Debadge D8 406

Post by teamster1975 »

I've never attempted bodywork myself, that's a very informative post!
Thanks for sharing! :)
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there :(
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X

"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
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ddoherty406
2.0 16v
Posts: 112
Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 5:36 pm
Location: Derry, Northern Ireland

Re: HOW TO - Debadge D8 406

Post by ddoherty406 »

Cheers teamster, Yea im sure there will be a few people lookin to give this ago now. It can be quite tricky to get it right and you need alot of patience fot it, but theres a good sense of pride when you stand back and see what you have achieved and more importantly how much youve saved lol :lol:
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mjb
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Re: HOW TO - Debadge D8 406

Post by mjb »

Congratulations, you've made it to the knowledge base section :cheesy:

Great HOWTO, even though I'd never try it myself (I've got this hate-hate relationship with paint :oops: )
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
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