hi there new member wanting help buying a 406 please
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hi there new member wanting help buying a 406 please
hi there everyone my name is richard i am based in derbyshire and i am wanting to purchase a 406 diesel either 90bhp or 110bhp saloon or estate my limit is around 1500 and have seen plenty around at this price. can i ask what are the things to look for when buying a 406 an example of a car found is an 03 plate lovely metallic blue 90bhp diesel which has done 150,000 miles full mot and 6 months tax included fully rac inspected no stamped service history or proof of cambelt change but checked by rac and serviced by garage reputable garage who only sell around 6 or 7 cars which look very nice and seem ex dealer cars is this a good price and should i be wary about cambelt no receipt? also how much is a new cambelt and water pump change? and is the 90bhp diesel powerful enough just for everyday use and motorway use looking for good economy since loosing my job and trading for 2.8 v6 passat lol many thanks is advance richard
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Re: hi there new member wanting help buying a 406 please
Welcome Richard
. They're pretty solid beasties. Check that all the electical stuff works and the air conditioning is OK (the condensors have a tendency to fail). At that milage I'd be listening for clunks from the suspension but it's usually drop links or bushes so if it's knocking it should be a pretty straightforward fix, good bargaining tool!. The HDi engine does like to be serviced regularly so be a bit cautious there and check for smoke etc, also you'll have to do the cambelt straight away, even if it was done on schedule it's about due again so better safe than sorry eh? Prices for cambelt jobs seem to vary quite a lot but budget around £300 - £350 and you should be OK.
Probably forgotten loads of stuff, someone else will be along soon....

Probably forgotten loads of stuff, someone else will be along soon....

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Re: hi there new member wanting help buying a 406 please
First thing to check for when buying a 406:
RUST
If there's rust visible on the paintwork, it's likely to have been in a minor prang; these cars typically don't rust under any other circumstance. Confirm by checking the bodywork for any signs of buckling, crazing on the paintwork, or alignment issues between panels, as they're all signs of kinetic mistreatment
Next, check for water ingress. If it's going to leak, sod's law dictates that the water will pool in the places where there's lots of important electrical items. First port of call is to check the carpets for signs of dampness (including damp/mouldy smells). If the 406 you're looking at has a sunroof, check the seal around it is in good condition. Then go round the back of the car, open up the boot, and check the boot lining for similar damp/mouldy smells. Lift up the boot lining to reveal the spare wheel well. If there is water pooling in the well, then there is likely to be water leaking in through one (or both) of the rear light clusters. Again, it's a seal that goes when that happens.
And that's basically it - water ingress and rust - common enemies of any car, not just a 406, but if it's going to happen to a 406, that's the kinds of places you want to be looking.
RUST
If there's rust visible on the paintwork, it's likely to have been in a minor prang; these cars typically don't rust under any other circumstance. Confirm by checking the bodywork for any signs of buckling, crazing on the paintwork, or alignment issues between panels, as they're all signs of kinetic mistreatment
Next, check for water ingress. If it's going to leak, sod's law dictates that the water will pool in the places where there's lots of important electrical items. First port of call is to check the carpets for signs of dampness (including damp/mouldy smells). If the 406 you're looking at has a sunroof, check the seal around it is in good condition. Then go round the back of the car, open up the boot, and check the boot lining for similar damp/mouldy smells. Lift up the boot lining to reveal the spare wheel well. If there is water pooling in the well, then there is likely to be water leaking in through one (or both) of the rear light clusters. Again, it's a seal that goes when that happens.
And that's basically it - water ingress and rust - common enemies of any car, not just a 406, but if it's going to happen to a 406, that's the kinds of places you want to be looking.
2002 (D9) Peugeot 406 Coupe SE, 2.2 litre Petrol. Scarlet Red/Rouge Ecarlate/Rosso Scarlatto. Black Leather interior. SOLD 
2008 (E60 LCI) BMW 525i M-Sport, 3.0 litre Petrol. Carbonschwarz Metallic. Black Dakota Leather and Myrtlewood interior.

2008 (E60 LCI) BMW 525i M-Sport, 3.0 litre Petrol. Carbonschwarz Metallic. Black Dakota Leather and Myrtlewood interior.
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Re: hi there new member wanting help buying a 406 please
got a saloon and an estate both 110 hdi's but cannot post yet as waiting for previous to be approved by mods (which by the way is a cool idea!) so will post details if you want one, when can 

Re: hi there new member wanting help buying a 406 please
Two things would put me off that car:
1. The cambelt needs changing immediately if there's no proof of when it was last done
2. Clutches only last 150-200k and it can be a bloody expensive job. The HDI90 is cheaper to do this job though, as the 110 and 136 have dual-mass flywheels (DMF) which will need replacing at the same time and add something like £300 to the bill
However, £1500 for an '03 isn't bad if it hasn't been used as a taxi
1. The cambelt needs changing immediately if there's no proof of when it was last done
2. Clutches only last 150-200k and it can be a bloody expensive job. The HDI90 is cheaper to do this job though, as the 110 and 136 have dual-mass flywheels (DMF) which will need replacing at the same time and add something like £300 to the bill
However, £1500 for an '03 isn't bad if it hasn't been used as a taxi
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang