Project shed

[Lixah]

Hi,

To start with, sorry if this is in the wrong place, couldnt' see any projects section this seemed the best fit for it. I am creating this thread to serve is a bit of a data log of work/progress that happens on my car,

So, hello all, I have just taken my first steps into peugeot ownership. I am an ex volvo guy who's owned many many of them! however I couldn't resist this when it came up for sale cheap locally.
(currently don't have a volvo/project since i sold everything to start my courier business at the start of this year)

I like to have a bit of a project/fun / car to work on in my spare time. and this is perfect.

so what is it, a 2001 peugeot 406 2.0 HDI 110bhp DW10ATED estate manual, in "wicked red"! and is apparently "low/Average" trim level (i thought she was pretty well spec'd to be honest, what's the top spec on these cars ?

With over 200k on the clock she's definitely had a rough life, also being an ex taxi i imagine is both a good and bad omen (lots of city driving, but well looked after/serviced?) guess it depends on how you see it!

the body is a bit of a mess, very minor/almost no rust but a lot of dents down both sides, as well as a large dent on the rear / nearside door/quarter luckily doesnt appear to have damaged the paint.

But with almost a full year's MOT and no advisories i'm not complaining at all, I have to admit she drives spot on, tracking is slightly out, but thats nothing.

So all of this cost £160. Not a bad deal at all imo.

here's how she looked on collection.




























project goals/possible ideas

- possible full re-spray or wrap, something that I've always wanted to do but never got around to, if it happens it will be a very amateur job just taping up mostly, without much dismantling, not worth spending much time re-spraying when the body is in such condition as it is, also need to look into re-registering with DVLA

- minor performance mods, EGR / CAT delete + remap, possibly other things will see after those are done.

- possible a/c delete, from just doing some light research it appears this would be a more difficult/involved job that I first imagined so maybe I won't. anyway something to think about.

note able areas requiring work;

- driver's window does not work

- driver's seat bad condition/wrong type/non airbag causing airbag warning - needs replacing

- misc trim replacing

day 1:

- completed a full clean of car, including all door jams/interior/exterior/engine bay

- replaced missing rear wiper arm/blade / exterior trim / driver's door rubber seal (perished) / removed trim badging

- cleaned and re-applied grease to door hinge/stop

- applied silicon lubricant to all window guides (that work ) to assist with slow motors

- removed chrome trim (very perished) was intending to perhaps respray in black or something but some cracked on removal so just decided to remove

- replaced cabin/air filter . noted oil still very good color and right up to the top so decided to wait on an oil change, plus the car has done less than 100 miles for the past few years according to the DVLA mot history check!

- attempted to pull out rear quarter dent, worked a bit, but still a noteable dent in place, will have another attempt at this soon

- replaced non-functioning radio with cheap aftermarket head unit, rewired wiring harness for some reason firstly the radio stayed on after the key was removed from ignition, then radio would not save settings after keys removed, swapping red/yellow wires around on the harness did nothing, required the harness plugs to be moved around. now working 100% very happy!

















































day 2;

- added a steering wheel cover (stitch type - imo looks great ) one of the ebay specials, but i've had one before that I used on my van and they're really nice quality very happy with how it looks, takes a while to sew it on but worth it for the result, i hated looking at that old worn steering wheel - really transforms the interior, it was already quite tidy disregarding the driver's seat, feels much fresher/nicer now! shame all 4 of the air vents are broken (clips holding them in place ) - weak design ? is this a common thing on 406s ? will I struggle to get replacements from a scrappy ?

- attempted to remove EGR got all but complete, the last damn nut on the egr valve itself is rounded off, I think someone has removed it before (recently) or attempted to. all bolts came free relatively easily but 1, it's on the under/inner side of the valve 1/2 nuts that face upwards on the vertical pipe. Sorry my technical terminology is limited Will either cut the valve out (the rest is out just the small valve still there) or weld something onto the nut and get it removed. Space is limited it's going to be fun! there's a coolant line running through the EGR, I assume when i've removed all this stuff I can just connect the in/out (coolant) pipes that originally connected to the EGR and it'll be all good ?









That's all for now, if anyone is bored enough to read this im all ears for suggestions and advice. Will update as it happens

thanks for reading

-Matthew

[Lixah]

day 3:

- didn't really get much done, finally managed to get the remains of the EGR valve off without too much damage to the surrounding area. Had to cut it out, ended up coming off in about 20 pieces and in about 3 hours! but hey, it's done now and something to tick off the list.

- also made a little connector pipe for the coolant hoses that used to run through the EGR. cut a piece of the original pipe and sanded the corner down a bit, seems to work well, nice and tidy with all the parts out now

- couldn't be bothered to wait for the blanking plate to arrive since i wanted to get a lot of stuff done this weekend, so just found an old brass letter box and cut a couple of plates out of that, its about 2-3mm tick so should be fine i reckon.

- also found someone on another forum who can do a remap so that's getting sorted soon, all coming together now, just need to take a look at the cat next, and got my eye on a boost gauge which i might pickup

[Lixah]

day 4:

- didn't really do much only had an hour or so free back to the grind

- just replaced the smashed cigarette lighter mount it was annoying me, rattling around. seemed really well used so got a wire brush tidied it up a bit, as well as replaced the blown fuse. used a rubber grommet that i had and cut to size. then made up a little blanking plate for it

[GingerMagic]

Good work, its coming along nicely
When I did my EGR removal, I just left the pipework in place, keeps the MOT man happy.

Here is the thread for my 406, although its not as detailed as yours..
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22036

Don't worry about high mileage, one car was sold on here that covered over 450,000 miles - and there are others on the web that have done over 1.6 million kms...

Welcome, BTW.

[fattail95]

Excellent progress made so far! I've done almost every mod in the book to my 110 so if you get stuck shoot me a PM! You can easily extract 145hp/330nm from these with a standard stage 1 map, without changing anything mechanically - my map was done by Steve @ HDi tuning in Bristol, he's very knowledgeable on the DW10 engine and it was only £99.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, plug the vacuum line to the air doser too as you've deleted the EGR.

[Lixah]

day 4:

- not much time again today, very busy, was on the road from 0600 - 1900 ( what a day ) dont need to go into the details on that one. anyway, finally managed to find the fabled 406 driver's seat! in the correct spec (even if it did mean an extra 4 hours trip to blackpool ) oh well . so it's pretty grubby but hey, it's the correct spec / manual/airbag/ not ripped/correct pattern, and just £20 very happy, needs a serious clean though, but that's no problem, also picked up a driver's side window motor! only £25.. both great prices in my opinion however I wasn't as impressed at their price on the cabin air vents (nothing special just the air flow position vents for the driver/passenger ) he wanted £20! for them, what the hell, i only wanted them because the clips to hold mine in are toast, and they rattle around a bit, but at the price i'm not interested! with me spending £50 on the other parts i was expecting him to just throw them in for free to be honest - is that cheeky ?

- anyway, with the little spare time i had when i got home i decided to tackle the window motor, was a bit amusing to find the old one in about 10 pieces and glass in the door, what the hell happened to the old one
it was easy enough to install (to my surprise - this is something i've never done before). i couldn't figure out why the front kept dropping when going up, until looking at the glass and seeing a hole cut, turns out there's a plastic runner in the rubber runner on the b pillar, that moves up and down with the glass; well it's safe to say it hadn't moved in "a while" and needed more than a little encouragement to get moving again, sprayed liberal amounts of silicon lubricant and used some pliers to really free it up, as well as spraying the whole of the window, all around the rubber runners, really get as much as possible on there, it was very dirty and dry. This silicon lubricant works a treat on windows, but it's such a ****, it gets absolutely everywhere, you'll be cleaning it up for weeks!. next i discovered the switch itself was playing up, it wasnt really a problem, it's very easy to open up (dont even need any tools ) just use your fingers to prise the clips away, then gave all the contacts a good clean, this fixed that problem, and then FINALLY, there was one more, when i put the window fully up, the window would go back down after closing completely; around 3-4 inches, I assumed this was due to some sort of calibration, I had no idea how to fix/calibrate this, however i found a solution (not peugeot specific) which surprisingly worked for me

method;

""
1. Ignition on pos.II (no reason for II vs. I, it's just what I happened to do).
2. With fingers on the fuse puller on fuse#5 (LH door module) initiated Auto-up driver's window with LH door module button.
3. As soon as window reached top (and before it started to auto-down) I pulled the fuse.
4. Turned off ignition, and waited 30 seconds.
5. Replaced fuse.
6. Ignition back to pos.II.
7. Tried auto-down, did not work, only manual down worked, used manual down to get window all the way down.
8. Tried auto-up, did not work.
9. Got window to top with manual up.
10. Tried auto-down, worked!
11. Tried auto-up, WORKED!
12. Done, fixed, smiling!
13. Ignition off, waited, ignition back on, tested and all good.
14. Tested other windows from LH Door Module, and all is good.
...hope it's still working tomorrow ""

All credit to swedes.com and the people who contributed there, this worked 100% for me, i didn't expect it to, it's probably not the correct way but hey, whatever works. link to thread for reference ; http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread ... alibration (is this allowed? )

anyway, hopefully tomorrow, i'll get a chance to clean up that seat and install it.

[Lixah]

Good work, its coming along nicely
When I did my EGR removal, I just left the pipework in place, keeps the MOT man happy.

Here is the thread for my 406, although its not as detailed as yours..
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22036

Don't worry about high mileage, one car was sold on here that covered over 450,000 miles - and there are others on the web that have done over 1.6 million kms...

Welcome, BTW.

that's a very nice 406 you have there, i was surprised how different the power outputs are in the 2.0 and 2.2 engines really are, i guess they are more different than i imagined (i am still used to the old redblock volvos tanks) the only difference on those was pretty much the bore

yes one very good sign is how often these cars are/where used as taxis, those guys seems to go for very reliable cars and generally have good taste. to be fair for the milage im still impressed with the condition of mine.

even saying that i don't expect mine to be doing that sort of milage, 450k is damn impressive for the best of engines!

[Lixah]

Excellent progress made so far! I've done almost every mod in the book to my 110 so if you get stuck shoot me a PM! You can easily extract 145hp/330nm from these with a standard stage 1 map, without changing anything mechanically - my map was done by Steve @ HDi tuning in Bristol, he's very knowledgeable on the DW10 engine and it was only £99.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, plug the vacuum line to the air doser too as you've deleted the EGR.

Hi there,

Actually im just getting ready to do the cat delete (well inside delete) and could do with some info on that.

regarding the EGR delete, im not sure what you mean, i removed the solenoid completely, and where it was a T connection i just replaced with a normal 2 way connector ; is this correct?

regards, Matt

[Lixah]

sorry I meant to ask, the petrol cap only opens when someone is holding it while another person presses the button the cabin how do i go about fixing this, I dont really know where to start

help would be appreciated

regards, Matt

[Doggy]

Yep!

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=17727
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=14605
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=12892

This is a common one, mine has the spring from a wooden clothes peg around the hinge pin to help it pop open.
As a temporary stop gap jamming anything of suitable size into the gap between the flap & body, (windscreen scraper in my case), will help it pop open.

[Lixah]

Yep!

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=17727
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=14605
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=12892

This is a common one, mine has the spring from a wooden clothes peg around the hinge pin to help it pop open.
As a temporary stop gap jamming anything of suitable size into the gap between the flap & body, (windscreen scraper in my case), will help it pop open.

Hi there, thanks, that sounds perfect, I will do that asap.

[Lixah]

Day 5:

- got around to installing the seat today, gave it a really good clean first. it's one of those things, at a glance it looked ok, but i guess sitting in a junk yard for x number of years with the window open didn't help it and it was pretty well dirty. scrubbed it and then got the hose on it - i was bit worried about getting it so wet being since it had electrical connectors for the airbag and such, but decided i didnt want to be there all day washing the dirt out, was careful to avoid electrics anyway and it worked a treat, it came up great i think, as good condition at the passenger even, happy with that.

installation went fine, and a bonus as i suspected it also fixed my airbag fault - when i saw tape on the old connectors i was a bit worried, (loose connections for seat airbags seem to be so very common on these french cars) but nope, so far its fine. put a but of tape round to keep a good connection. there was just 1 minor hitch, im not sure what the seller at the scrapyard did when removing the seat, but the thread for the seat belt bolt was f**ked, so i ended up using a very slightly smaller bolt and putting a locking nut on this, i thought hey, that's perfect but didn't realize, the seat needs that space when going low, so it gets about 2/3 of the way and stops, bit annoying but I can live with it (for now) I am a perfectionist and things like that really bug me, I was thinking the only real solution would be to grind off/grind down the original welded on nut, and hope the new bolt fits in the space, i would only be worried about compromising the structural integrity of the frame/mount doing this, but i may do in the future.

- apart from that just made a battery tie down since there was nothing there (plastic cover just placed on top) I have the proper mount however the battery that is installed is too big for it to fit, so this makeshift one will be ok for now. I used a spare spare wheel tie that the car strangely came with

I had a question, does the media stalk do anything else other than control the original radio? and are there any reasons to leave it installed. Firstly since i have an aftermarket radio I dont need it at all, but I think it just looks really out of place too, not sure why, but i just want it gone

As for the seat, looks good and is nice and comfy, however the arm rest seems a bit cramped, (i think im a bit too big and it - feels like my arms are squashed by my side when i use the arm rest, guess it was designed for slim french people (or more likely i need to work on my diet))

[Captain Jack]

We need a "like" feature on this forum. Great stuff! Wish I had the determination to sorry mine out properly

[GingerMagic]

Good result...
I admire the use of tie down for the battery...
I don't really use my arm rest, unless I'm on a long journey, and it means I can't put a can of coke in the cup holder....
Keep your eye on the airbag connectors under the seat, but to be honest it's normally the passenger side that plays up.
As for the radio stalk, you can remove the lower cowling to access a little tab to push in and release the stalk - but you could do with a blank to put into the comms unit to protect the circuit, but you will also have a hole in the lower cowling....
I personally would find a Peugeot original CD player to retrofit, and add a Connects2 device so you would have radio, CD and up to 594 songs on an SD card - all controlled by the stalk and displayed on the MFD..

I forgot to add, I replaced my passenger front window motor and it was a piece of cake, but I learned to have the window at least halfway down before removing the motor as it's easier to unclip it from the glass, the only issue I had is my old motor had bolts holding it in, and my replacement needed nuts to go on fixed studs, which I stole from the bulkhead solenoids..

You need to plug your EGR solenoid back in (blue connector) whether it's blanked or not, just to keep the ECU happy...

[Lixah]

Good result...
I admire the use of tie down for the battery...
I don't really use my arm rest, unless I'm on a long journey, and it means I can't put a can of coke in the cup holder....
Keep your eye on the airbag connectors under the seat, but to be honest it's normally the passenger side that plays up.
As for the radio stalk, you can remove the lower cowling to access a little tab to push in and release the stalk - but you could do with a blank to put into the comms unit to protect the circuit, but you will also have a hole in the lower cowling....
I personally would find a Peugeot original CD player to retrofit, and add a Connects2 device so you would have radio, CD and up to 594 songs on an SD card - all controlled by the stalk and displayed on the MFD..

I forgot to add, I replaced my passenger front window motor and it was a piece of cake, but I learned to have the window at least halfway down before removing the motor as it's easier to unclip it from the glass, the only issue I had is my old motor had bolts holding it in, and my replacement needed nuts to go on fixed studs, which I stole from the bulkhead solenoids..

You need to plug your EGR solenoid back in (blue connector) whether it's blanked or not, just to keep the ECU happy...

thanks good then, im probably just going to remove the stalk, i dont know why, but just looks out of place to me. honestly the only reason i actually bought an aftermarket radio in the first place was because I just wanted to have aux in so that i could play music from my phone.

yea window motor was way easier than i imagined its always been a job i thought would be difficult, due to removing/ refitting motor through the door and the same with the glass, but yes, it was all simple, just had a quick look at how to remove the door card on youtube too so you dont have to spend time figuring that out too

regarding the EGR valve ive had it completely mapped out so i think im safe leaving it unplugged.

cheers, Matt