Re-spray

[DaiRees]

This was altogether too subtle wasn't it?

[teamster1975]

This was altogether too subtle wasn't it?

I know, that's why I didn't reply to it for fear of being caught out! He's too convincing!

[biglamb]

well if you want a good job, you realy need to use a gud, with a proffessional holding it. Seriously dont use cans of arosol. Its true that its all in the prep work, and gti jon gave you the best advice there. BUt arosols are too thin and pissy and the fan airt big enough to get an even finish on somthing with lonts of bends and angles like a chav handle. If you like your car and want it to look good (as posible with a chav handle on it) id recomend paying for it doing. Buy the colour you need from a paint supplier/ manuafacture. and take it to a paint shop. they shouldnt charge you much more that £40 -£70 if you supply the paint. Or if you can find a chat who works in a paint shop to do it on the side for you,?.. Ow by the way im a paint sprayer by trade.

[teamster1975]

I'll just settle this once and for all, it's an April Fool!
mjb wouldn't be caught dead driving a chav chariot
For the benefit of everyone posting helpful information

[niz406]

Well me old muckka.... it's lucky I know how too...

Firstly you do not need to remove all the paint... you are simply taking the spoiler down to a dull stage... this requires removing all of the glossy laquer, using 80 - 100 grit is great for getting down to bare surface, but you don't need too. Simply using some 240 will be fine, this will take all the shine off the original paintwork... once you have the dull paintwork required, you should then use a 480 this is fine for your base coat! !

Give the spoiler a few layers of plastic primer and ensure that each coat is dry before applying the next... once you have 2 good coats it's time to flat the primer to a smooth surface... start with circa 800 grit and finish on 1500 grit. here the surface should be smooth to touch and the primer layer should still be complete, no patches of base coat where you have rubbed too far...!

Once this is done you want some panel wipes / tac clothes to wipe the surface this will remove any powder from any small pitting in the primer.. don't worry when you take it for its top coat these will not be visible to the naked eye, especially if they give it 2 good coats of paint.

Once you get it back bobs your uncle and your away.... ready to fit it ! !

[teamster1975]

Is it the same theory for filling dents Niz? I want to start tidying up the dings on mine and haven't the first clue about this sort of thing. Many thanks!

[niz406]

Is it the same theory for filling dents Niz? I want to start tidying up the dings on mine and haven't the first clue about this sort of thing. Many thanks!

It is... but you will need to use body filler... and if you have never used it before.. you are in for a steep learning curve, so get ready for a lot of sanding lol

[teamster1975]

Thanks niz I've got to learn some time, I'll practice on something else before I touch the car me thinks!
It always looks so easy when Ed does it on Wheeler Dealers

[gtijon]

There's no way I'd try and spray over 480 grit marks with can primer. I recently resprayed my fun car myself, using a proper gun, compressor and breathing gear, and a shitload of advice from people who spray professionally. I'd sand to 600 grit on rattle can primer - it's more work but it's a hell of a lot better than sanding your carefully applied top coat back for another coat because it looks pap due to poor prep.

Also, it would depend very much on what plastic primer you use - u-pol's plastic primer is literally just adhesion promoter - no fill, goes on like a matte coat of lacquer and helps the paint to stick. Some halfords cans I've seen are more like a proper primer.

Anyway, as for getting dents out, I would pay a smart repair man, or try one of those sticky panel pullers or suction cups. I've got panel beating hammers here, and I've done a bit on my car when I sprayed it. In easily accessible areas you can often make dents look better, but if you're a clumsy type then you can easily make things look worse. If you're going to fill a panel, and particularly if it's metallic, IMO you're going to need to spray most, if not all of the panel. Sometimes you can get lucky and hide the new paint edge on a swage line, but 406s panels don't really *have* many swage lines. If you try and touch in panels with aerosols, I can guarantee you that it will look terrible. I'd use a rattle can to spray a wing mirror cover, or at a push the bottom of a door below the rubbing strip, but never try and do anything that's a) big or b) high enough to be properly visible. Any painter will tell you that you can get away with a lot more on the bottom 10 - 18 inches of a car than you ever would above that, simply because it's never looked at closely.

Put it this way - my bird's car is completely sound, no broken paintwork, but it's covered in little dents. I've done this sort of stuff before and there's no way I'd bother trying to fix them... If the car's not worth spending the money on it for a smart repair, it's probably not worth bothering. I find it quite liberating to drive the car as I don't have to give a toss about it compared to my Golf.

[teamster1975]

Thanks gtijon, I'll bear that in mind! It's not a job I fancy doing myself anyway, I prefer spanner work

[mjb]

This was altogether too subtle wasn't it?

I know, that's why I didn't reply to it for fear of being caught out! He's too convincing!

I just burst out laughing and now everyone in the office is staring at me like I'm a loon...

Really quite proud of this thread