yes, that's right.
It's a ferrous metal covered in a paint that happens to contain a small quantity of zinc as one of it's many constituents. It's is not galvanising, as it is not a pure/near pure zinc coating, by whatever method, applied directly to the metal - it's a layer of paint. Still bl00dy good, but still paint (or primer if we're being really picky).
You wouldn't say your windowsills at home were lead coated because you'd simply painted them with gloss paint now, would you? - (not that modern gloss contains any lead these days, but you get my drift).
bodywork sill
Moderator: Moderators
Re: bodywork sill
I think it must come down to whether or not the zinc is an 'active' ingredient which prevents rusting. It appears it does so I'll call it galvanised 
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
Re: bodywork sill
That's a good point, becuase on real galvanised metal the zinc acts as a sacrificial anode, and is why galvanised cars (such as older Porker 911s) do eventually rust. I think the phosporescent paint process is probably superior, provided it doesn't get damaged.
Re: bodywork sill
Sorry, double post.
Re: bodywork sill
i also had the same problem.... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5322 had to do it recently or it would have failed bloody mot lol....
the only cure i could find was to put a 2 foot plate over the top plate bought from local motor factor costing £10.00 did the trick as there are no patten sills made anywhere.....and got a couple of good scrapies in the area but scrap 406's around here are like getting rocking horse doodoo lol
also a warning for all 406 owners after making some discreet enquirees although all other panels are galvanised and box sections are wax injected the "SILLS" being a vulnerable part of the car (high curbs, stone chips, low ballards etc) are not protected in any way.
thus extreme damage will escentially mean a scrap 406 worth very little except parts
btw mine is a 97 plate 18 16v petrol hope this helps any one .
the only cure i could find was to put a 2 foot plate over the top plate bought from local motor factor costing £10.00 did the trick as there are no patten sills made anywhere.....and got a couple of good scrapies in the area but scrap 406's around here are like getting rocking horse doodoo lol
also a warning for all 406 owners after making some discreet enquirees although all other panels are galvanised and box sections are wax injected the "SILLS" being a vulnerable part of the car (high curbs, stone chips, low ballards etc) are not protected in any way.
thus extreme damage will escentially mean a scrap 406 worth very little except parts
btw mine is a 97 plate 18 16v petrol hope this helps any one .
-
bangernom1cs
- 2.0 16v
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2008 4:00 pm
Re: bodywork sill
HI,
I had a similar problem on my 98 D8 in October sorting out a huge dent where I'd rubbed a high kerb 6 years ago.
Anyway being a taxi, the council changed their regulations lately and whilst the car passed its mot, it failed its plating on the dented sill citing aesthetics.
This was roughly the entire length of the front passenger door and in by about 2 inches with the metal stretching inwards quite significantly.
So how did we do this job I'd been putting off for 6 years?
Fortunately the local taxi garage were stripping a 2001 Hdi for parts and the garage owner agreed to let me butcher the shell for my sill section (bodily better than mine but mechanically knackered).
I drilled out all the spotwelds along the top and bottom lips of the sill and got the grinder on the job using the holes for the rubber trim as positioning guides.
A good friend of mine who's a demon welder did the welding and I cut out the damaged metal and shaped the section to suit leaving the top of the original sill in place and using the repair section to be continously MIG seamwelded to the car.
A good grinding and skimming later and Halfords finest colourmatch left the car looking pretty good . Not perfect but good enough for the tester to be reminded where we'd done the job. Car is still working , 450k and a joy to drive
I took a load of pix and when I work out how to use photobucket, I'll put them on.
A WORD OF WARNING.
Having looked inside the sill of a 406, they do rust all along the bottom seam from the inside starting at each spot weld and contrrary to what we might get told , I saw NO wax in either one of the two cars we'd worked upon.
The culprits for this rusting are the rubber door seals along the top each sill. Water gets into the holes for each hog clip and the sills consequently fill with water and no drain holes either. Most of us cabbies hate these where the punters kick them off all of the time, thereby causing us to rip the buggers off in frustration and do without! This compounds the problem with the higher mileages we do ensuring that the inside of the sills get a good dosing of salt water each winter. Therefore we also had to do a small amount of plating in these areas.
The solution is to buy some new clips then pull off the rubber seals and get plenty of aerosol waxoyl into each hole before replacing the rubber with the new clips drilling a drain hole at the end of each sill. OR for cabbies clean the lip of the sill where the holes are and duck tape them up carefully which works a treat if your car is a dark colour like mine is.
Tony
I had a similar problem on my 98 D8 in October sorting out a huge dent where I'd rubbed a high kerb 6 years ago.
Anyway being a taxi, the council changed their regulations lately and whilst the car passed its mot, it failed its plating on the dented sill citing aesthetics.
This was roughly the entire length of the front passenger door and in by about 2 inches with the metal stretching inwards quite significantly.
So how did we do this job I'd been putting off for 6 years?
Fortunately the local taxi garage were stripping a 2001 Hdi for parts and the garage owner agreed to let me butcher the shell for my sill section (bodily better than mine but mechanically knackered).
I drilled out all the spotwelds along the top and bottom lips of the sill and got the grinder on the job using the holes for the rubber trim as positioning guides.
A good friend of mine who's a demon welder did the welding and I cut out the damaged metal and shaped the section to suit leaving the top of the original sill in place and using the repair section to be continously MIG seamwelded to the car.
A good grinding and skimming later and Halfords finest colourmatch left the car looking pretty good . Not perfect but good enough for the tester to be reminded where we'd done the job. Car is still working , 450k and a joy to drive
I took a load of pix and when I work out how to use photobucket, I'll put them on.
A WORD OF WARNING.
Having looked inside the sill of a 406, they do rust all along the bottom seam from the inside starting at each spot weld and contrrary to what we might get told , I saw NO wax in either one of the two cars we'd worked upon.
The culprits for this rusting are the rubber door seals along the top each sill. Water gets into the holes for each hog clip and the sills consequently fill with water and no drain holes either. Most of us cabbies hate these where the punters kick them off all of the time, thereby causing us to rip the buggers off in frustration and do without! This compounds the problem with the higher mileages we do ensuring that the inside of the sills get a good dosing of salt water each winter. Therefore we also had to do a small amount of plating in these areas.
The solution is to buy some new clips then pull off the rubber seals and get plenty of aerosol waxoyl into each hole before replacing the rubber with the new clips drilling a drain hole at the end of each sill. OR for cabbies clean the lip of the sill where the holes are and duck tape them up carefully which works a treat if your car is a dark colour like mine is.
Tony