My Beautiful ''Miss Pug'' [A Working Progress!]

[Sonia406]

Right then

Someone please tell me that is NOT the Renault logo on my electrics? (If it is; no wonder it's gone wrong)




I am also guessing that, the minute I disturb these wires I WILL need a soldering iron - another tool that I don't have. As previously mentioned about those ''chock a block (wiring connector) or decent scotch locks'' is looking perhaps the best way to go, as I have pliers to chop these silly connectors off (decent pliers at that!)

Can someone please tell me more about those chock a block things or the scotch locks and what exactly I will have to do?


And on other news: I wanted to clean!


Before:


So I cleaned:



And, as another note: Please can someone tell me what the devil I am missing here (I mean it's technical name)?

I rang a salvage place today and being a very typical natural blonde at that (Yeah - bet that explains a few things doesn't it boys?) all I could fumble out on the phone was 'I am missing the rubber from the back end of the roof' and before I said of the roof, the guy the other end was already in hysterics.

Oh and if anyone knows any good pressure washers (or is selling one) let me know, lol. Need to blow away the cobwebs

[lozz]

Weather strip id guess,

bloody typical scrapyards, theres alot like that, over the phone there totaly useless,
best to go in and just grab the bits you need, less hastle,

dosent matter who you are male /female, they shouid learn some manner's.

[Sonia406]

Thanks Lozz!
How is this weather strip usually held down? It does look like it's been cut doesn't it? I know my ex husband took my car without consent on too many a times and always came back with parts hanging off it I have the bumper bar thingy in the boot too, looks like it just slides on the bottom of the front bumper though.
Could this contribute to the blocked drain and the water coming in the boot (to some minor degree) hence rust? I suppose I best photograph to show you what I really mean by that.......

Any tips of advice regarding the electrics?

The scrap yard, I don't blame him really, a dithering woman on the end of the phone? Who can blame him? I did ask if they update the website regularly and he said yes, weekly but feel free to phone - though I think I shall stick to the website.........

[jonsowman]

Someone please tell me that is NOT the Renault logo on my electrics? (If it is; no wonder it's gone wrong)

Where's that plug from? I don't recognise it.

A cheap soldering iron will only set you back around £25-30 and it's an essential really. The plugs you've pictured are actually crimped rather than soldered but I imagine you won't be reusing the same connector.

[Sonia406]

Someone please tell me that is NOT the Renault logo on my electrics? (If it is; no wonder it's gone wrong)

Where's that plug from? I don't recognise it.

A cheap soldering iron will only set you back around £25-30 and it's an essential really. The plugs you've pictured are actually crimped rather than soldered but I imagine you won't be reusing the same connector.

My fault, the original thread is HERE

Pictures of the situation in hand, lol.(Passenger side).

I see black tape around the blue (side airbag) and brown (seat belt pensioners) connections.





Should I missing the yellow one? (What is it?)
I have been told to look at the orange one, is that the orange that's going into the blue connections, or the thicker orange cable that goes along near the central console?

To un-clip them is it a case of just pressing the top part of it to release? I want to improve access and tilt the seat back, what size screw is the one I need to do and which one (the start of the rail or on the rail)?
Haven't looked at the drivers side yet but I am convinced the fault I have is the passenger side and looking at the way those orange cables come out the blue connector - I think as suggested they are the ones that need attention..........

Thanks

Should I reuse the same connector or replace to use something else? Thanks

Air bag electrics

[jonsowman]

Ah, got it. I would keep some sort of connector in there in case you need to remove the seat, but make it something decent, otherwise you'll have exactly the same problem again.

You'll want to cut both ends off and put your new connector on. You don't need lots of current but you do need robustness, so some heatshrink over the cable and connector ends won't go amiss. As for the actual connector, I'd go for something like Power Poles:

[Sonia406]

Ah, got it. I would keep some sort of connector in there in case you need to remove the seat, but make it something decent, otherwise you'll have exactly the same problem again.

You'll want to cut both ends off and put your new connector on. You don't need lots of current but you do need robustness, so some heatshrink over the cable and connector ends won't go amiss. As for the actual connector, I'd go for something like Power Poles:

Thanks - any idea where is best for these parts? I did a google search and it came up with the power poles out in the fields
Woman at work - thank you for your patience,

[jonsowman]

Places like Maplin, RS and Rapid will do those sorts of connectors. They don't necessarily have to be Power Poles, but something of that type

[Sonia406]

Places like Maplin, RS and Rapid will do those sorts of connectors. They don't necessarily have to be Power Poles, but something of that type

Thanks - I've found Anderson Pole Poles However it seems they only come in Red and Black, If I want to do a proper job I want Red, Black, Brown and Blue - as pictured on the car.......... so we can differentiate the cables. I did think about just settling for Red and Black in colours, then putting coloured insulation tape around the connection box but not too keen on this idea - any ideas?

[waue1978]

And, as another note: Please can someone tell me what the devil I am missing here (I mean it's technical name)?

I rang a salvage place today and being a very typical natural blonde at that (Yeah - bet that explains a few things doesn't it boys?) all I could fumble out on the phone was 'I am missing the rubber from the back end of the roof' and before I said of the roof, the guy the other end was already in hysterics.

Oh and if anyone knows any good pressure washers (or is selling one) let me know, lol. Need to blow away the cobwebs

That strip was only resting in place on my one, but it never came out somehow. I always used to take it off to clean underneath it (& it's also an ida to lift up the rubber bits above the doors & clean those channels out too).

As far as the airbag issue goes, it may be an idea to grab another pretensioner while you're at the breakers getting a weather strip (but make sure the airbags in the donor car haven't already fired). I've actually got a good pair in the shed if you're ever in the area & want to try plugging them in to see if it works.

It could also be worth checking the wiring to the switch in the centre console (where you turn the passenger bag off) as I remember experiencing issues with my first D9 after switching the passenger side off one day. What light is actually on? Is it the side airbag light or is it the one that says AIRBAG? I find it highly unlikely that you have an incorrect ECU as if that was the case, wiggling the wires that first time wouldn't have fixed it.

[Sonia406]

That strip was only resting in place on my one, but it never came out somehow. I always used to take it off to clean underneath it (& it's also an ida to lift up the rubber bits above the doors & clean those channels out too).

As far as the airbag issue goes, it may be an idea to grab another pretensioner while you're at the breakers getting a weather strip (but make sure the airbags in the donor car haven't already fired). I've actually got a good pair in the shed if you're ever in the area & want to try plugging them in to see if it works.

It could also be worth checking the wiring to the switch in the centre console (where you turn the passenger bag off) as I remember experiencing issues with my first D9 after switching the passenger side off one day. What light is actually on? Is it the side airbag light or is it the one that says AIRBAG? I find it highly unlikely that you have an incorrect ECU as if that was the case, wiggling the wires that first time wouldn't have fixed it.

Thanks for your reply!
So are these rubber things just in there and NOT stuck down? I must admit I cleaned around the boot channel earlier but the whole car needs doing to be fair!

Do you think it could be the pretensioner at fault then? I just thought it was the dodgy electrics. It's the AIRBAG light that's flashing at me...
Well I don't know what to do now, do I fit new connection boxes on these electrics (of which 2 had black tape around) or do I pay more attention to the pretensioners? I will look at the wiring switch also, going to have to find out how to remove the central console though,

Thanks for your help x

[Sonia406]

Can I ask another really stupid question? (I know my stupidity must piss a lot of you off I am sorry!)
The other half of the connectors seem ''fixed'' to the seat, how do I free them? Or again - is it a case of cut the bastards off?

I have decided I will be replacing with Anderson PowerPole Single Pole Power Connectors I take it these WILL work, being ''single pole'' and all?
I am no electrician (or mechanic for that matter) so you shall have to excuse the really stupid questions.
I also wonder if this job is beyond me but I hope you'll all be behind me to help me complete this goal........... Thank you again

[waue1978]

It's bound to be as simple as a loose connection somewhere, but the thing with the pre-tensioners is just that it'd be a relatively easy test if you had one that you knew was ok. If you plug it in & the light goes, then the bad connection is from that plug to the tensioner.

If the light is still flashing when the passenger airbag is turned off, chances are, the problem is with the drivers seat. If that's the case, it''s worth checking the wires (where you can to look for any obvious kinks where a break might have occurred). It will usually be down to connections between plugs though & if you're not overly anal about everything looking factory fresh, you could use bullet connectors to reconnect wires (one at a time) & try to ascertain which connection is the bad one.

The best way to detach the wires from the seat is to cut the cable ties (you can always use more to reattach). I'd never heard of these Anderson Powerpole connectors (an Anderson to me is a type of lead to work the tail-lift on an artic), but I'd just use the bullet connectors.

[Sonia406]

It's bound to be as simple as a loose connection somewhere, but the thing with the pre-tensioners is just that it'd be a relatively easy test if you had one that you knew was ok. If you plug it in & the light goes, then the bad connection is from that plug to the tensioner.

If the light is still flashing when the passenger airbag is turned off, chances are, the problem is with the drivers seat. If that's the case, it''s worth checking the wires (where you can to look for any obvious kinks where a break might have occurred). It will usually be down to connections between plugs though & if you're not overly anal about everything looking factory fresh, you could use bullet connectors to reconnect wires (one at a time) & try to ascertain which connection is the bad one.

The best way to detach the wires from the seat is to cut the cable ties (you can always use more to reattach). I'd never heard of these Anderson Powerpole connectors (an Anderson to me is a type of lead to work the tail-lift on an artic), but I'd just use the bullet connectors.

I understood the first paragraph incredibly easy - when you wrote it like that (Thanks!)
Why didn't I try that 'light still on with my battery connected? I must admit I turned it off to start the work but I have not touched that area of the car - ever before, Me? Overly anal about it looking factory fresh? Errr - whoops!
I honestly appreciate you taking the time to answer my post - Thank you

[jonsowman]

Bullet connectors are also fine, perhaps easier to get hold of but a tad more difficult to mate/unmate. As long as it's a solid, well insulated and strain relieved connection, go for whatever you can get your hands on!

Yep, the connectors will either be press fitted into the metal frame (just pull them out) or cable tied on (cut and replace).