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Didn't get chance to start the sump job at the weekend, ended up having to visit family

Anyway had a spare hour this morning so got things rolling.
All the crap out of the way, bit annoying that you have to take the tensioner off but there we go.



Aircon pump tied up out of the way.



Sum pins out and in the corresponding holes on the new sump.



I'll remove the old sump tomorrow if I get time.

I had some spare time this afternoon so I carried on with the sump swap.
New sump cleaned and ready for sealer.


Old sump removed.


New sump fitted, did take a while to remove all the old sealer and clean up the surface though.


I'll give it overnight to set then refit all the other bits tomorrow.

Well I couldn't wait and while it's still warm out I carried on, and fitted the air con compressor, boost pipe and other bits.
Hmm must sort that rust out.


Also while under the thing I noticed the lower engine mount has started to let go. And for the time being I can't be arsed to take the drive shaft out to replace it so filled it with some sikaflex in the hope it will buy some time until it does let go. The socket is there to keep everything central while the stuff sets.

Well I think the 600 mile trip over the weekend has finished off the noisy rear wheel bearing, where it used to rumble under heavy cornering and at around 70 mph it now rumbling constantly.
A quick search and phone around found that ECP would get me one for £ 77, and a few if the local motor factors wanted from £80 to over a £100.
Anyway had a search on ebay and came across this.

£25 with free postage. I've used BRT bearings before and not had a problem even though I believe they are like first-line and just redistribute other brands, just hope it has the correct number of teeth.

Not done much to the GTX for a while now, still not fitted the wheel bearing regarding the brake fluid loss I believe I've tracked it down to the clutch slave cylinder. Gave Peugeot a call and they said the part is in high demand and it would probably be early September before they could get one, phoned my local ecp and they have one on the shelf so will pick that up this morning.

The only picture I got of doing the job as it started raining.



Also found that the drives side front flexi hose is almost completely perished where it passes through a plastic sleeve that holds it in place. It's so bad that when you press the brake pedal it doesn't just seep out it squirts.

I recently bought a clutch slave cylinder for my Coupe, but it was the wrong part ( my fault ) it was half price from GSF, £24, but it has a missing seal or connector on the end - worth checking before you leave the motor factors.....
Also, a tip to bleed it is to force fluid into the slave cylinder bleed nipple using an oil can or syringe, and this pushes the air out of the top into the master cylinder.

Picked up the flexi hose, just waiting for the rain to stop.

So much for an easy job, anyway here goes.

The problem.


The first problem arose when I tried to undo the flair nut at the top of the flexi hose, judging by the state of it I'd say it's the original and was completely solid and even using a flair nut spanner it rounded off. So the only way to remove it was to cut it off which means...

The next problem was trying to remove the flair nut caliper side and once again totally solid. So off comes the caliper.

I soaked it in plusgas then cut the end of the hose off, attached the mole grips and still it wouldn't budge. The only other option was to apply heat, very lightly as I didn't want to damage seals and what not.
Unfortunately the rain set in again so will have to put it on hold for now. Made a bung to stop sh*t getting in and brake fluid pissing out.

In the meantime I've made up the new hard brake line ready to go back on. Will probably need a bit of tweaking but it's pretty close.

And finished.

The new hard line needed a bit if adjustment to get it into the correct position but not much.

I've put a rubber cover over the sharp edge where the pipe goes through the inner wing. The original pipe has a thicker jacket where it passes through.




All bled through OK and safe again.

Don't know if your aware but to blead the brakes properly you need pp2k
To activate the a.b.s so you can get all the air out

I know this information is late but better late than never, hope it helps.

Hmm went around each caliper and bled them all through, I've got a good firm pedal (better than it was when I got it) abs and brakes work fine.

Bought a few bits for the gtx off ebay last week. This arrived this morning, just waiting for the egr blank to arrive.

Sorry I missed these thread updates, very impressive work with the brake line there

The egr blank arrived this morning, I had planned on getting one for either side of the egr but couldn't find both.