406oc.co.uk

Got a '97 2.0l petrol that I took in for it's MoT today.

I knew it was going to fail on one of the brakes (offside rear), the caliper is seized (I think), leaving the disk rusty. Unsure of if it just needed loosening or there was bigger issue. The previous MoT (before I bought it) failed on the offside rear hand brake. The offside rear suspension arm also failed.

This year we get:

Offside rear brake recording little or no effort (as mentioned).
Nearside rear parking brake recording little or no effort.
Both rear brake pipes corroded.
Nearside rear upper suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint.

RBT brake efficiency: 48%, RBT brake imbalance: 40%.

He gave me a rough quote on the whole lot at around £600, however, this includes some other parts and work in other areas I didn't list which I am doing myself, so we are probably more in the region of £400-500.

Of course he's not sure what the problem is for the hand brakes without taking apart the whole brake assembly (true or not I have no idea, I believe him simply on the fact my parents have used him for years). It could be worse, it could be not.

Does this sound about right? Can I do much of this work myself or is it something I need a garage to deal with?

The Advisory Info section also mentioned that the clutch was very stiff. I hadn't noticed at all, it seems 'normal' to me, is this a 406 thing or a possible problem?

Cheers - Dan.

Get the brake pipes done
Then do the rest yourself.

They arnt big jobs..

Dribs wrote:Got a '97 2.0l petrol that I took in for it's MoT today.

I knew it was going to fail on one of the brakes (offside rear), the caliper is seized (I think), leaving the disk rusty. Unsure of if it just needed loosening or there was bigger issue. The previous MoT (before I bought it) failed on the offside rear hand brake. The offside rear suspension arm also failed.

This year we get:

Offside rear brake recording little or no effort (as mentioned).
Nearside rear parking brake recording little or no effort.
Both rear brake pipes corroded.
Nearside rear upper suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint.

RBT brake efficiency: 48%, RBT brake imbalance: 40%.

He gave me a rough quote on the whole lot at around £600, however, this includes some other parts and work in other areas I didn't list which I am doing myself, so we are probably more in the region of £400-500.

Of course he's not sure what the problem is for the hand brakes without taking apart the whole brake assembly (true or not I have no idea, I believe him simply on the fact my parents have used him for years). It could be worse, it could be not.

Does this sound about right? Can I do much of this work myself or is it something I need a garage to deal with?

The Advisory Info section also mentioned that the clutch was very stiff. I hadn't noticed at all, it seems 'normal' to me, is this a 406 thing or a possible problem?

Cheers - Dan.

What are they actually quoting you for?

New discs? Caliper/s? Handbrake shoes?

The last 97 406 I worked on (3 weeks ago) had drum brakes on the rear.

It's got rear disks (GLX).

Quote for all the work inc. labour. So fixing whatever is under there, new suspension arm, new pipes, new pads(?), new calipers(?). Offside rear disk is OK but rusted/pitted from non-use.

I'm not really a mechanic, so I really have little idea what I am doing down there. That said I'm quite capable of working from a Haynes manual and my dad most probably has the tools and experience to assist (though usefully he's on holiday at the moment).

You will need new discs and pads, but don't automatically assume you need new calipers, take out the pads and try to push the pistons back, it they push back then the sliders will be seized, but can be freed off.

The top link is a fairly easy job, but as lozz said, get someone to do the brake pipes if you don't know how to.

Look in the knowledge base and use the search facility, there is a lot of info to help you.....not to mention lots of knowledgable people

Dribs wrote:The Advisory Info section also mentioned that the clutch was very stiff. I hadn't noticed at all, it seems 'normal' to me, is this a 406 thing or a possible problem?

I think the smaller petrol engined cars have cable (not hydraulic) clutches. If this is the case, it could just be some corrosion and/or wear in the clutch cable. Shouldn't cost too much to get a new one, and it shouldn't be too difficult to replace it. If you do, you may find the car much easier to drive

As above, it definately is a cable clutch, found my old 2 litre GLX on Service Box which said it was. Clutch pedal was fairly stiff on mine too but never bothered me, it didn't slip so never looked at it.

When I changed the clutch cable on my old 1.9td it was just a case of hooking it onto the clutch, a couple of clips behind the engine then squeeze it through the small hole to the pedal then..........dislocate shoulder, elbow and wrist to get your arm in a position to hook the clip onto the back of the clutch pedal

Did I mention break your lower back trying to lie on the sill??

Seriously it's very straight forward but access to the pedal clip is 'limited' if you can't hook it on by feel.

Handbrakes on the 406 are well known for being crap. It probably only needs adjusting, and this is worth a try before you go buying parts for it. My handbrake was useless, but after being adjusted by Jasper5 it's now solid on 3 clicks -- and no new parts.

Similarly, as Jasper5 says, the rear imbalance and inefficiency could well be a seized caliper. Jasper5 freed up one of mine. Now, the most technical thing I've done is replace drop links but having seen Jasper5 dismantle and re-assemble my rear brakes, I'd be comfortable attempting it myself -- taking 2 to 3 times the time no doubt. At this point, you'll know whether you need new discs and pads or not.

What is rear upper suspension arm?

So.... fun times.

Didn't realise that the thing had those security nuts on the wheels. Garage the MoT was done at wasn't of much help and the previous owner supposedly never had the removal tool. Phoned the garage that did last years test, but turns out they were just a testing centre and didn't do the repairs.

I've been through every page here and checked other sites but I'm still not sure how to proceed.

Reverse thread removal tool? I'm not giving halfords that much money.
Hammer on 17mm socket? 12 sided or standard hex?
Larger socket plus a rollpin? The socket holes are deep and narrow so I don't think anything larger will fit down there.

I just looked on youtube, seems the best way is to hammer a tight fitting socket over the top and undo it that way.

I've never done it myself but have a look and check it out...

I drilled mine out, serious PITA. Only upside was that by the time I'd finished, I'd taught myself how to sharpen a drill properly.

Lesson learned, I've just replaced all 4 of my locking bolts with std ones, (Cheers Kelv).

I have an extreme method of removing a locking bolt which is only to be used as a last resort.

I will advise further if all else fails.

Should mention that it's not a lock nut, but one of those spline jobs that takes a specific socket. Oddly enough an 18mm socket won't grip and a 17mm won't go on. Haven't hammered it though, getting a spare one first so I don't wreck the one I have.

Dribs wrote:Should mention that it's not a lock nut, but one of those spline jobs that takes a specific socket. Oddly enough an 18mm socket won't grip and a 17mm won't go on. Haven't hammered it though, getting a spare one first so I don't wreck the one I have.

You could try an old type size of socket, namely 11/16 AF, this is bigger than 17mm and smaller than 18mm.