406oc.co.uk

Hello,

Following my woes with steering wheel rattle and the garage quoting £150 to replace it, I thought I'd give it a go myself but this time doing it properly. I have a few questions on the process:

1) The hub nut - what size is it, 35 or 36mm? Will I be successful in undoing it with just a ratchet?
2) The ball joint - what kind of splitter do I need? There's fork one on eBay as well as the one with a screw that you turn to split it - which is best?
3) Gearbox oil - can I reuse it or is it best to get a new bottle (1.9L, right?)?
4) Anything else?

I will probably get the garage to press in a new mount - or maybe even buy a new mounting bracket and have the new mount pressed in that before I even start, so I don't waste time with the bush itself.

The hub nut is definitely 35mm....it would be best if you had a breaker bar to undo and tighten the hub nuts....they will be very tight, you could extend the reach with a pipe or something.

The ball joint doesn't need a splitter, just hit the side of the lower arm where the bolt goes through and it will be shocked off the taper....use a 21mm socket to undo the lower arm nut and screw it back on a few threads to protect the threads when you hit the lower arm.

We fitted new oil when we did the clutch job for you so if you want to reuse it drain it into a clean container....otherwise drain it and fit 1.9 litres of 75w80 oil.

You need to take out 2 bolts holding the driveshaft bearing into the lower mount body ...11mm spanner/socket size....they are very annoying trying to undo them.

The bolts holding the mounting bracket onto the engine are 16mm spanner/socket size.

The bolt holding the lower mount bar are 18mm.

Thank you very much, John! With the hub, how do I stop it's from turning while undoing it? Will sticking it in gear help?

Looks like all I really need is a 35mm socket - maybe my dad has one. And a mounting bracket to save time on the driveway.

Is your spare wheel a steel one? If so you can fit this with 2 bolts and lower the car onto the floor then undo the driveshaft nut with the handbrake on and car in first gear.

Ah, good idea! Yes, it's the steel one - so I guess it will have a hole for the hub nut to poke through. Though I was sure alloys did as well...?

If you can get a socket through them...

Just had a look in my garage, there is plenty of room with the alloy wheel or the steel wheel to get the socket through....you just need to take off the wheel and pull the pin and steel castle fitting off then put the wheel back on to undo the nut.

Thanks all. Sounds like an easy enough job, really!

Just need to find another bracket from someone/breakers and I'll be set.

jasper5 wrote:The ball joint doesn't need a splitter, just hit the side of the lower arm where the bolt goes through and it will be shocked off the taper....use a 21mm socket to undo the lower arm nut and screw it back on a few threads to protect the threads when you hit the lower arm.

John, what about the track rod joint? Will that come out easy enough?

The track rod end? No need to take that out, but if you meant the bottom ball joint pin just lever down on the bottom suspension arm to remove the pin once you have shocked the pin free.

If you don't find a bracket let me know and i'll see if these guys near me have one...looks like they probably have.

Hi John. If you could have a nosey for the bracket, that would be great! Maybe you could even press a new bush in? I'll obviously cover any part/labour/postage costs.

I'll have a look tomorrow if I get time, I was having loads of free time tomorrow, but as I got the estate running I'm anxious to get the mot done tomorrow, plus I have a brake job on a Mitsubishi in the morning.If I don't get chance tomorrow I'll go saturday morning.

No problem, there's no rush on this. Good news on Dai's car - so get it on the road

Managed to call in to the breakers this morning, they have a large box full of lower mounting brackets....some with minor differences, like the shape at the top where it bolts to the engine.

Is it possible to photograph the mount so I can have a reference?

There is a good one with a nearly new mount which they will sell me for £25.

I don't have a good picture of the mount simply because I cannot get to the top of it! Here's what I have:



Looking on Google, it's one like these. The first three have the wrong orientation of the bush.





This one has the correct orientation:



I am happy with the price - especially if it already comes with a new-ish bush. As long as it's the correct orientation!