Rear shocks
Moderator: Moderators
Rear shocks
Should I tackle DIY job of replacing rear shocks on my 2003 Hdi? I have the tools, I can spin the spanners, but how hard is it? Removal of boot trim isn't the problem, but must I lift the car on axle stands, or can it sit on the ground? I have a thumping noise rear / right . Main dealer said the shock abs. is shot.... Which absorber would suit my 406 to give it OEM ride quality.. ? Thanks..
Bad ass boys drive badass toys.
Re: Rear shocks
Springs are annoying as sin, but the shocks are rather benign. Don't think I would attempt it with the car on the ground, since it would give so little room to get the old shock out and the new in. Replace in pair. Remember that the rod will spin when you try to loosen or tighten the top nut. I think there's a torx-hole in the top to work around it. Ratchet spanners are golden 
As for which shocks you have several decent options. I ended up buying Sachs. They were priced fairly and are reputable.
For inspiration:
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/rear-sh ... 00002.html
As for which shocks you have several decent options. I ended up buying Sachs. They were priced fairly and are reputable.
For inspiration:
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/rear-sh ... 00002.html
-
Welly
- The moderator formally known as Welton
- Posts: 15033
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 12:52 pm
- Location: East Midlandfordshire
Re: Rear shocks
Noise at the back can be the anti-roll bar D-bushes but the one on the drivers side is a bastard because the fuel filler neck is in the way.
The 406 doesn't seem to suffer with bad shockers usually.
The 406 doesn't seem to suffer with bad shockers usually.
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
-
steve_earwig
- Moderator
- Posts: 19799
- Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2007 6:09 pm
- Location: Jastrebarsko, Croatia http://www.jastrebarsko.hr/lokacija/
Re: Rear shocks
As Welly says, aunty roll bar rubbers or drop links, as well as bushes in the arms. We don't get a lot of shock absorber problems reported on here. That's not to say it's impossible but...
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
The submitted form was invalid. Try submitting again.
The submitted form was invalid. Try submitting again.
Re: Rear shocks
The car does not bounce, it isn't wobbling about... If I press the back side down it doesn't bounce up and down... Maybe some arm bushing or droplink... Main dealer only assumes it's a failed shock absorber... How can I check if arm bushing or drop link is a cause of noise?
Bad ass boys drive badass toys.
-
dirtydirtydiesel
- 3.0 24v
- Posts: 1521
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2013 11:02 pm
- Location: Coalville, Leics.
Re: Rear shocks
Jack it up at the back end, both sides it the same time with enough clearance for you to get under with a big pry bar & start moving / wobbling things
Whilst listening for a nock / clunck
Whilst listening for a nock / clunck
2002 110 HDi estate, Rapier in monaco blue! ( found quite a bit more power 
) SOLD I've sorted the airbag light
1998 3.0 V6 SE coupe in Diablo Red ( my baby ) sold
2006 206 1.4 16v sport in Aegean blue ( wife's shopping trolley
)
2006 BMW e61 535d m-sport
run's for cover 
) SOLD I've sorted the airbag light 1998 3.0 V6 SE coupe in Diablo Red ( my baby ) sold
2006 206 1.4 16v sport in Aegean blue ( wife's shopping trolley
)2006 BMW e61 535d m-sport
run's for cover Re: Rear shocks
Some links are easier to test with weight on the wheels. In my case both the top links and the drop links did not appear faulty when jacked up, but when I got in a pit with four wheels on the ground and started pushing things around it was very clear.
Top links (rear tie rods): Check by grabbing the wheel at 10 and 2 o'clock and push it fiercely in and out towards the car a few times. If you can feel a very slight click just as you jolt it there's play in the tie rod - usually where it is bolted to the car, and not the ball joint where it is linked to the wheel. If this one is busted it often presents itself with a rattling noise, and not just clunks.
Drop links: grab the anti-roll bar as close to the drop link as possible and pull and push up and down - again feeling for a very slight click. Access is perhaps not good if you don't have a pit, but I think it should be possible. ARB linkages can also be diagnosed by driving the good side into a little dip in the road (gutters or a rutted piece of road), and have it say clunk in the bad wheel.
Top links (rear tie rods): Check by grabbing the wheel at 10 and 2 o'clock and push it fiercely in and out towards the car a few times. If you can feel a very slight click just as you jolt it there's play in the tie rod - usually where it is bolted to the car, and not the ball joint where it is linked to the wheel. If this one is busted it often presents itself with a rattling noise, and not just clunks.
Drop links: grab the anti-roll bar as close to the drop link as possible and pull and push up and down - again feeling for a very slight click. Access is perhaps not good if you don't have a pit, but I think it should be possible. ARB linkages can also be diagnosed by driving the good side into a little dip in the road (gutters or a rutted piece of road), and have it say clunk in the bad wheel.