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took off wheel trim and found a wheel bolt out. oh crikey i thought. but it wont go back in. tried to clean the thread on disk and bolt but looks stripped a little.

am i right in thinking that if its stripped from the brake disk thread i just change the disks but what if the thread is stripped in the hub behind....i may be way off as havent removed disk yet as on order for tomorrow.

re thread possible..?

The wheel bolt bolts into the hub behind the discs, changing the discs will not make any difference to fitting the wheel bolt.
Do you have a spare wheel bolt you could try to screw in?
Don't try to screw the replacement wheel bolt in unless the other bolts have been undone and the wheel is off the ground...it will help with aligning the bolt hole.

If the bolt hole is stripped on the hub then you will need to replace the hub.

must get haynes manual. is changing the hub possible without presses etc

gsf have the hub and bearing for £60. cheap fix if bearing is doable at home

annie wrote:gsf have the hub and bearing for £60. cheap fix if bearing is doable at home

It's doable depending on your skill level and if you can remove the hub without a press.
The biggest problem you face is removing the wheel bearing from the hub and fitting the new bearing into the hub.
As you don't need the old hub any more you can wack the old hub out from behind the stub axle with the stub axle removed using a big socket and a sizeable hammer.
You need to soak the bearing and circlip holding it in with WD40 and remove the circlip.
You need a big socket and hammer to knock the bearing out from the stub axle...sometimes they come out easy, sometimes they are very difficult.
Before fitting the bearing the inner part of the stub axle needs to be cleaned and filed to make the bearing easier to fit...a dab of grease will help.
After the bearing is gently knocked in, the hub can be pressed in using a vice or gently knocked in using a big socket or block of wood on the inner bearing race so the inner race doesn't get pushed out of the new bearing.

Of course the best way to do this job is to take it to a garage and get old hub and bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in.

is it worth retapping the old thread same size and trying new bolt first do you think?

annie wrote:is it worth retapping the old thread same size and trying new bolt first do you think?

Yes, absolutely!!

Might be worth some threadlock on it too.

how would i find what tap size i need. ebay have thesehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271007707501? ... EBIDX%3AIT.

annie wrote:how would i find what tap size i need. ebay have thesehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271007707501? ... EBIDX%3AIT.

If that bolt is the correct size then the tap size is listed in the photo....M12x1.25.

two types of tap here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-M12-x- ... 3cfad8a6f4.
got to be worth a try before changing the hub and bearing.

annie wrote:two types of tap here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-M12-x- ... 3cfad8a6f4.
got to be worth a try before changing the hub and bearing.

Yes, they look alright, cheap too.
Bergen tools are good quality.

Service Box says 12x125 sp O guess M12x1.25 must be right. You only need the taper tap as you can get to the other side of the hole but I think you'll need a tap wrench to give you a chance to keep it straight. Something like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-4-1-2-1-4-C ... 4639a45481

forgot about a tap wrench. never can keep them straight otherwise. this fix will be less than £15 and must be worth a try first. lucky this is a spare car but does drive wonderfully.

if your anywhere near preston lancs I have any tools you may need to borrow, this offer is open to any other members as well

you could put a new thread in using a helicoil or other rethreading system