AC recharge needed?

[OdinEidolon]

Hi all, from what I heard the 406 air conditioning system should be very good and output very cold air. Right?

I bought the car some months ago and I am starting to think something's wrong with the conditioner: It's not that it does not work, but air is not as cold as it is in my other car, a 2009 Clio. Also in hot days with strong Sun (that yellowish ball in the sky that you see once a year, for you from the UK) I have to maintain a high fan speed (3/4) to keep the car cold enough to survive.

Should I recharge the AC? Or maybe there's something else that could be causing the "problem"?

[teamster1975]

I'd get the system pressure tested for starters; the D9's suffer from corrosion on the condensor which will show up as a stain if the refrigerant had dye in it previously.

[RayneR]

well.. i had problems with my air con when i bought it and it works cool now.. after recharging and testing the tubes and changing the valves where the plugs of the rechargers go in a lot of times .. then one day it just stood there ( on the garage) one day so he could find what was going on .. and after all it was the radiator .. it was broken .. it had a stain on it ..

A thing i don't like about the air con is that the motor looses a lot of power .. i need to pull more of the motor ..

[OdinEidolon]

I'd get the system pressure tested for starters; the D9's suffer from corrosion on the condensor which will show up as a stain if the refrigerant had dye in it previously.

Anything I can check myself?

[teamster1975]

Anything I can check myself?

Take a look around the sides & base of the condensor for any signs of rust or staining for starters, it's a fairly common fault when they get to about 9 yrs old. You won't be able to pressure test it yourself.
You may be lucky if you are getting some cooling from the system it just needs a re-gas. A word of warning though; when they do the regas they will empty the system & vacuum it to remove any moisture; if this throws up any leaks you'll have no aircon at all until the leak is fixed.

[OdinEidolon]

Anything I can check myself?

Take a look around the sides & base of the condensor for any signs of rust or staining for starters, it's a fairly common fault when they get to about 9 yrs old. You won't be able to pressure test it yourself.
You may be lucky if you are getting some cooling from the system it just needs a re-gas. A word of warning though; when they do the regas they will empty the system & vacuum it to remove any moisture; if this throws up any leaks you'll have no aircon at all until the leak is fixed.

There is some cooling, yes, but since the car is black when the sun shines it takes ages to cool the car to an acceptable temperature. I'll test what temperature the air gets out.

[Welly]

Here's my leaking condenser in the early stages, I say 'early' it crapped out about 2 days later. The green stuff is refrigerant oil.


A discharge temp at the face vents of between 5 and 8 deg C is a good indication of a healthy system:


Another weak point is the pipework bracket positions which can wear through the tubing and cause a leak, here's a typical example of where to look - near the battery:


Another favourite place to corrode is the bottom of the condenser (like the pic above) but viewed from the front like this, it's worn-through at its own bracket :


It is fair to say that 95% of a/c systems presenting problems will have a leak which needs attention somewhere. The reason any system would be low on gas is through leakage - sure a tiny escape through seals over time may occur but you can bet that once you subject the system to high test pressure you will exaggerate/worsen the leak leading to repair/replacement.

Teamy's right about the a/c services they will firstly empty the system of refrigerant and then carry out a Nitrogen high-pressure test to check for leaks, if they find a leak then you are then faced with the replacement costs or drive away with no a/c. Eventually the compressor will switch off on low pressure to save itself but before this you may hear it grumbling and whining so best turn it off and seek attention.

[RayneR]

well, in my previous post, when i meant radiator, it is in deed the condenser you mention there on your last pic, i needed to replace it, it had a very dry stain in the middle of it, interesting though, because there was some tests with a green thing, and didn't came anything out of it.

Another thing, why does it smells like burned gas when for example i do a trip with A/C ON, and then on the way back i don't turn it on it will smell like burned gas or someting similar .. the smell is not pleasant at all ...

[OdinEidolon]

well, in my previous post, when i meant radiator, it is in deed the condenser you mention there on your last pic, i needed to replace it, it had a very dry stain in the middle of it, interesting though, because there was some tests with a green thing, and didn't came anything out of it.

Another thing, why does it smells like burned gas when for example i do a trip with A/C ON, and then on the way back i don't turn it on it will smell like burned gas or someting similar .. the smell is not pleasant at all ...

Just have a thought, the AC is not working at all in my opinion, could it be the compressor that's gone? Should I hear some kind of noise when the A/C is turned on?

[Doggy]

Yes, there is a distinct 'click' when the compressor clutch engages - you should be able to hear this over the engine noise at tickover if you have the window open.

In the early stages of diagnosing the problems on mine, I disconnected the clutch solenoid connector at the compressor and tested it by connecting momentarily to the battery with the engine stopped to prove the clutch works. (If you do this use a fused lead and make sure you get the correct pin - the other, (earth), is already connected internally to the compressor casing - at least on the Sanden compressor).

[OdinEidolon]

Yes, there is a distinct 'click' when the compressor clutch engages - you should be able to hear this over the engine noise at tickover if you have the window open.

In the early stages of diagnosing the problems on mine, I disconnected the clutch solenoid connector at the compressor and tested it by connecting momentarily to the battery with the engine stopped to prove the clutch works. (If you do this use a fused lead and make sure you get the correct pin - the other, (earth), is already connected internally to the compressor casing - at least on the Sanden compressor).

I can hear no noise... even standing in front of the open bonnet with my gf clicking A/C

[Doggy]

Probably lack of gas. Quickest way to check, look for the HP & LP connectors under / in front of the battery. Remove the screw on cap to reveal two valves similar to those in a tyre. If you carefully depress one very briefly there will be a distinct hiss if there is any gas in the system.

[lozz]

Wear some rubber gloves if you press the aircon valves in, You might get Frostbite !
that stuff is Lethal on the chest too,

[OdinEidolon]

Wear some rubber gloves if you press the aircon valves in, You might get Frostbite !
that stuff is Lethal on the chest too,

Will do, thanks guys

[OdinEidolon]

System was completely out of gas, dealer refilled it for 65£ additive included. We'll see next week if it has a leak by using UV lights and glasses - the additive is UV-reactive.