Air blower stopped working

[markw]

That part is only used on D8's. The way the speed is controlled was changed when D9's were introduced and for those you need the other part with the tall aluminium fins on.

[RayneR]

That part is only used on D8's. The way the speed is controlled was changed when D9's were introduced and for those you need the other part with the tall aluminium fins on.

Thanks, in the list says 1996-2004 :O, that's why xD.

Also, my electrician said that if it was the resistor then probably i would have at least one of the speeds, but i don't get any air on any speed setting. I was there today but he couldn't look at my car, probably tomorrow or Wednesday.

[RayneR]

Got confirmation it's the ignition barrel the eletrical part of it, can you help me to search for the part in ebay since i don't know the english name of it ?

Thank you.

[puggy]

Be careful if buying a used one off ebay , i ended up getting a new one from
the main dealers £165 but at least it came with new door and boot locks .

[markw]

If you have to go down the E Bay route, I think you'll have to buy the whole thing, not just the electrical switching part.
Something like this?

[lozz]

Bypass it ..

http://community.preloved.co.uk/forums/ ... -dead.html

[Malc]

RayneR I see you've established it is the ignition switch but judging by your expert's remarks on getting at least one speed if the blower control unit is naffed I don't hold much faith! Hope his ignition barrel diagnostics are right.
This is just for general info..
The part in your pic is the motor blower control unit and is not a resistor but an electronic circuit with heat sink held in a recess on the floor pan by one single 6mm bolt.
The ebay part in your earlier posting is another and entirely different type of control unit which is bolted directly to the blower motor.
Have you checked the blower motor fuse in the fuse box below the steering column?
Generally F40 (40A) in the top right hand corner of the fuse-box.
If this is okay and to rule out ignition switch take out the two green plugs on the control unit and bridge the wires red to red and black to black.
I used paper clips but better still single strand copper wire of a similar thickness.
Switch the ignition switch on quickly and if the motor blower kicks in switch off. This will indicate ignition switch okay and the fault is in the blower control unit.
I'm presently driving with the blower control unit bypassed but it means only one speed...full blow.

Gingermagic if you read this I'd be interested in your remarks on testing the blower control unit.

[RayneR]

It's the ignition barrel, i was at the electrician and he tested the ignition wires and voila, but i thought that the part with the fault could be replaced and i said to him that i don't want it the bypass way, but if it's too expensive i will go the bypass method.

By the way my cruise is also not working, is something related also because of the wire getting no power? Some months ago this also occurred but not like this time, sometimes it didn't worked but then after i stop and wait 5 minutes and then try again it worked also sometimes if i pressed the brake or clutch pedal it make the cruise stop responding, now it's on the second day that i try to use the cruise and it doesn't work,

[RayneR]

Well, i have done the joint trick and the air blower is working but my cruise is not. I think it's probably not related, maybe i'll open a new topic about it.

[GingerMagic]

Glad you got the blower sorted, lets hope the cruise is more straightforward to fix..?