Permanent and Ignition Live Switched?

[HimBigChief]

I've recently got my 406 2.1TD Executive and I've had a problem since I got it where by the stereo and clocks lose all power when the ignition is switched off, therefore I had to enter the stereo code every time I started the car. This is not just limited to these items though as the interior lights also fail to work unless the ignition is in the 'on' position and god knows what else!

I took the stereo out and checked the power wires running to it and the ignition live was permanently 12V whereas the constant live changed for 0V to 12V when the ignition was on. I have done a quick bodge and swapped the power wires over to the stereo for the time being so that I don't have to enter the code everytime I start up, however I am wanting to fix this problem properly so that I can have courtesy lights when I unlock the doors and also so that I know what time it is!

Having had lots of old skool Peugeots, I am making the assumption that there will be two wires coming out of the fuse panel somewhere and at some point in time, someone else has removed these and put them back in the incorrect order.

My question is does anyone have any ideas where these 2 crossed wires could be and has any one else had a similar problem?

[mjb]

Take the panel off from under the steering column. The likelihood is you'll see someone's botched handiwork under there

[HimBigChief]

Just been and done that, and I couldn't see anything that didn't look factory. Took a quick pic to see if you can spot anything...


I'm wondering if there's a plug on back to front somewhere or t'other.

[mjb]

see that 30A fuse you've got in position 8? It should be a shunt not a fuse (just grab the biggest one you can find...) and it should be lower - in the middle between the 8 and 23 positions

You'll have to wire your stereo back to how it was...

[HimBigChief]

Awesome! Gonna go do it now. I shall be back in a couple of mins with an update...

[mjb]

Here's a pic demonstrating where I mean on my old tubby. Fuses 1 and 16 can be moved down a notch for a permanent live too.

[steve_earwig]

Wow! That was impressive! Nice one mjb (I'd keep the 30 if it's not blown)

[HimBigChief]

Right, sorry it took slightly longer than 5 mins, but I had to stick the battery back on the car as it's been on charge for the last few hours, and also put the lower part of the dash back on, but the good news is that it all works! You, my friend, are a bloomin' genius! I'm gonna go and swap the power wires back around for the stereo now and jobsagoodun! I now have courtesy lights and a clock that actually keeps the time! I think it needs a new bulb though as it didn't light up when I turned the ignition on, but that's no issue at all!

I'm guessing I'm not going to need to have fuse 1 or 16 in the permanent positions yet as everything in the car is still currently standard (won't stay that way for long though!).

Many thanks mate!

30A fuse put into spare fuse slots. I've got loads of spare fuses though, so I'm going to go and get one of each and stick them in the spares rack. Need to find my little fuse removal tool too...

[mjb]

Glad to be of help

1 is the cigarette lighter socket, and 16 is the radio. I prefer to keep 1 switched for obvious reasons, but it can be handy to have he radio permanent so you can leave the stereo on for example for passengers if nipping out of the car

[HimBigChief]

Cheers for that, just rewired the power on the stereo again back to the correct way (quite difficult while trying to hold the torch in your mouth!). I now have a problem with the stereo staying on once key removed unless I turn it off manually. I have tried fuses 1 and 16 in both positions and neither had any effect. Any other ideas? I also fixed the dodgy bulb on the clock so that now works aswell! Yay! To be fair, I could quite happily live with the stereo like that as it is much better than having to enter the code everytime!

[mjb]

Hmm dodgy goings on. You do have to wonder why the shunt was replaced by a fuse in the wrong place... Does the heater blower run without the key in now? It's definitely worth checking out - the shunt could have been removed to hide a power drain or a broken ignition switch (not rare), in which case your battery might already be flat

[HimBigChief]

The heater switches off with the ignition (at least the display panel does), so I'm assuming the fan does too. It was a bit weird as when I got the car, the shunt was half placed below the 30A fuse (where the fuse below would fit but the shunt won't because it's slightly wider). I'll just have another play about in the daylight sometime. The ignition switch also seems fine as I've tried jiggling the key about in all switch positions and nothing untoward happens. I now need to get the car through the MOT and get it taxed and on the road!


Anybody know much about replacing radius arm bearings/bushes?

[mjb]

what's a radius arm?

[HimBigChief]

I'm not 100% but that's what it says on the MOT failure sheet. I'm assuming it means the lower rear wishbone, but I've not had a chance to jack it up and have a proper look around yet. I suppose it could be the bar which runs parallel to the sill?

[steve_earwig]

That's what they called the trailing arm on a Mini