seat removal when electric not working?

Talk about the 406's electrical system, what wires do what, how to add extra functionality, etc.

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gumby6371
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by gumby6371 »

This may be a rather bodge it and scarper approach but....

Take both front seats out, put drivers seat in passenger side and use the working electrics to get the seat in the right position for you, refit in correct side and forget about it.
I'm assuming the wiring will reach, in the dark and distant past I built leccy seats for Rover 75's (yes it was me that built that seat that collapsed under you) and the bases weren't handed except for the slides having different bolt positions to fit the floor pan.

Alternatively VERY CAREFULLY knock the clevis pins out of the motors with a punch and wind them on by hand until the final resting place is achieved. You'll need to brace the holes when re-inserting the clevis pins as they usually fit into plastic brackets which could snap.

If you try either method obviously you'll need to follow battery removal procedures
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markw
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by markw »

How handy are you with wires??!!
There is a way to 'hot wire' it but I wouldn't suggest it to you if electrics aren't your thing!
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gray
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by gray »

very handy :) everything in this country is make it yourself, or make it work. :wink:
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by markw »

Ok! I like that...!

Under the seat is an orange connector...yes?
That's the connector that receives power from the seat ecu relays and directs it to the individual motors.
Image

Disconnect that orange connector and find out the connectors numbering. It should be as the pic above. As a saloon you should have 8 wires in there. It's a 9 pin connector but the 9th pin is only used on the Coupe as it has a 5th motor.

You'll need to put 12v on the seat side of the connector in the following way.

12v on 1A & 1B should make the tilt motor work. If not reverse polarity, the motor may be at the end of it's travel
12v on 2A & 2B should make the forwards/backwards motor work. Ditto about the polarity.
12v on 4A & 4B should make the height motor work. Ditto etc etc
12v on 5A & 5B should make the backrest motor move. Ditto etc
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gray
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by gray »

markw wrote:Ok! I like that...!

Under the seat is an orange connector...yes?
That's the connector that receives power from the seat ecu relays and directs it to the individual motors.
Image

Disconnect that orange connector and find out the connectors numbering. It should be as the pic above. As a saloon you should have 8 wires in there. It's a 9 pin connector but the 9th pin is only used on the Coupe as it has a 5th motor.

You'll need to put 12v on the seat side of the connector in the following way.

12v on 1A & 1B should make the tilt motor work. If not reverse polarity, the motor may be at the end of it's travel
12v on 2A & 2B should make the forwards/backwards motor work. Ditto about the polarity.
12v on 4A & 4B should make the height motor work. Ditto etc etc
12v on 5A & 5B should make the backrest motor move. Ditto etc
thanks sooo much i will get the seat to move temp forward and back to get that seat out! and check were the prob is

but tell me more about the seat ECU and relays? where located could this be my prob? are they individual for each seat?
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by markw »

The seat ecu is under the drivers seat.
There are 8 relays in there. One pair for each motor....

This is the inside of it (the Coupe version...9 relays)
Image
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gray
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by gray »

that could be my problem!

power goes to this first then to all the connectors under the seat correct?
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by gray »

for some reason i have never seen this under my seat , is it beneath the carpet or something?
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by markw »

It should be hiding under a plastic kick plate.

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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by steve_earwig »

Hi guys', how are we doing? I had to retire hurt with a headache :(

The problem with puling the orange connector is I don't think it will be obvious which way it is numbered, so look for the connectors for wires 6320 & 6325 (I said this on page one! Grrr etc.), although once the orange connector is removed I don't think there will be any problems with short circuits or anything.

I suspect we've gone astray looking at fuses 16 & 17 as I think there is only a single fuse on a non-memory driver's seat, however I can see fuses in the 3 positions for the memory ecu. Unless this is completely wrong and the fuses are blown elsewhere.

Maybe it is something stupid like the connector for the ecu has fallen out...
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markw
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by markw »

steve_earwig wrote:so look for the connectors for wires 6320 & 6325 (I said this on page one! Grrr etc.)
You did indeed Steve!. I really should pay more attention........

If our friend had done this, perhaps your headache could have been averted! :?
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by steve_earwig »

Pfft, I reckon the headache was down to the weather, pressure dropping, humidity, that sort of guff.

I'm really not fussed how we get there but I'm keen to get tot he bottom of this one. It would have been nice to have found a blown fuse or something but I think the ecu's died.

And Sedre is unbelievably useless on the fuse panel. the only diagram of any worth is the wiring one but even checking the wire codes gets me nowhere as Secre just says they're not in the database :evil:
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by gray »

Will I be able to get the plastic cover under the seat where the ecu is out without taking the seat out?
Last edited by gray on Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by markw »

It's possible, as I've done just that in the past. The front two fixings are the awkward ones and depending where your seat has come to rest, may make them inaccessible. The frame may be resting right over the top of them.
Do the thing that Steve originally suggested and put 12v on those two terminals to get the seat to move back and forth.
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Re: seat removal when electric not working?

Post by steve_earwig »

Or rip the bugger out :twisted:

I've just been trying to make sense of the fuse panel and you know what? The BH28, the 28 fuse panel (i.e. the bottom 3 rows) are coming up almost the same as a BH28 in a full mux :shock: The BH12, the top 12 fuses, aren't the same obviously, so I've been following wires:

29 - from relay 1242 : pulsair relay (que?)
30 - PB30A/PB30 RELAY 2665 FOGLAMPS
31 - PB31 -DITTO-
32 - CM32A (no idea)
33 - blank
34 - 123 : control heating lambda sensor B upstream catalytic converter
35 - not in the diagram!
36 - same
37 - same
38 - same
39 - same
40 - same (yeah, I can see the fuse too)

Full-mux BH28:
Image

Image
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