Cruise Control not working...so PP/Lexia??? SOLVED

[drjonts]

Cheers for that Steve - will get onto diagnosing again by checking the cam and crank sensors.

Thanks for the timing advice Doggy. Funnily enough, just did a cambelt change on my Mondeo estate this evening...and nothing went bang when I started it up so I'll chalk that up as a success!

Cheers for now.

Jonty

[drjonts]

Oops - double post!

[drjonts]

Evening everyone,

Hope your festive preparations are well underway and that the happy Christmas spirit is with you all!

Not had time to do any more digging on the lack of cruise control on my motor other than look at the cam sensor. Despite a slightly chafed wire, it seems to have an earth, a 5V feed and then a signal wire giving 4.2ish volts and wobbling about a bit with the motor running. Haven't checked the output from the crank sensor (don't have a scope) but would guess I'd have having starting probelms if that was a big problem. So may just have to get new sensors and see if they have any effect.

However, I have just read this over at justanswer.com about a 406 Hdi 90 misfiring and shutting off at times (30k miles after a belt change)

If you are getting the fault ...crank and cam not synchronized, this is either, a fault with the cam sensor - or the timing belt is loose.

The latter can be a fault with the tensioner ..meaning every now and then, the belt flaps too much ..and triggers the fault.. this can shut the engine down if bad enough..

These do suffer with injector problems too , that will cause an engine miss and shut down - but as you are getting these fault codes, you need to deal with that for sure ..

You could have a cam sensor fitted and see if that cures it..or you can have the belt checked first and do it that way round. With this fault, its a toss up which really..case of deciding which to go for first..

But thats the situation with this one for sure given what you have outlined.

Hmmmm...thinking I'm going to end up checking the belt tension and tensioner - anyone any advice and tips on doing that on a 110 Hdi?

Cheers folks,

Jonty

[Liliflower]

i find somebody has post some clues with pics on fb
https://www.facebook.com/lindaobd/posts ... 7302408935

[drjonts]

Hi Folks,

Can't believe that the last time I had addressed the lack of cruise control on my 110 HDi 406 was nearly 5 years ago...but the story is now full circle!

The car has been almost mothballed for a year with very little usage as there was a chafing noise which I suspected was something in the timing belt department and eventually I ordered a full belt kit and water pump from Eurocarparts, and then put them in the back of the car for about 8 months and there the parts sat until 2 days ago. Whipped the top cover off, ran the engine and attempted to diagnose for sure what the chafing noise was. Poured a small amount of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) over the running belt and it got quieter. Enough IPA and it ran silently. So it was the belt going noisy and closer inspection of the Goodyear belt which had about 70k on it showed a load of micro cracks all over the back of the belt across the width. This I assume is the belt hardening and cracking with age thus making it run more noisily. Got my head round the job of doing the belt and set to it with guidance from here on screen and some snippets of video and off I went.

Wheel arch cover, undertray, air filter box and intake pipes, ECU box and auxiliary belt stripped out for access and gradually worked my way down to undoing the crank pulley bolt. Employed the exciting trick of wedge the breaker bar down to the ground and flick the starter to crack the bolt and all was good. Took the crank pulley off (it's a later factory one with what appears to be a thin vibration absorbing damper strip between inner and outer. Looked OK (some surface cracks but small) and no signs of things starting to fail or let go so. i decided to re-use and if needs be look at a pulley replacement when the time comes. Got lower belt cover off etc and then noticed that my timing sprocket on the crank has a much wider key way than the key on the crankshaft. It wasn't worn, it was just wider. I did a spot of digging and realised that this of course allows some degree of adjustment when putting the belt back on and adjusting tension. The sprocket gets held in its final place by the clamping provided when the crank pulley is put on and tightened up. All OK then.

Carried on and got the starter motor off, crank pulley on temporarily and rotated the engine with the ratchet and socket. Pinned the cam sprocket and then had to jiggle a bit to get the crank pinned but it all seemed to get there after a couple of minutes. Got the engine supported on the jack, undid the front mount, put some marks on the old belt in three places with matching marks on the sprockets (belt and braces!), released the tensioner and took the belt off. Undid the water pump bolts, drained coolant, cleaned up the block surface and got the new pump into place with the gasket and torqued up. Tensioner and idler pulleys on and tightened ready for the belt.

Checked the new belt matched the old one for teeth number etc, marked up the new belt with the same tippex marks made on the old one and put it on the sprockets, round the tensioner and idler and took up a little bit of tension to keep things in place. All marks still aligned, crank and cam still pinned and things seemed good. With access to everything still good I checked the belt tension for a new belt and tightened the tensioner bolt.

(I have a little mechanical FACOM spring tool - DM16 - which gives a simple visual on belt tension using a plunger with markings on it)..:



Put the engine mount back in place temporarily, bottom belt cover on, crank pulley on, threadlock on the pulley bolt threads and did it up really tight - both cam and crank locking pins in place and the missus with her foot on the brake pedal as hard as possible (NOTE - make sure the wheel bolts are in the disc otherwise that tiny countersunk brake disc screw suffers hugely as I found out! Another story but I'll stay on track!) Would be better with a flywheel locking tool of course but had to get the job done so braved it out! Pulled the locking pins and rotated the engine to check all was well and it was Checked the tension of the belt, a small adjustment to go a bit tighter, 5 litres of red antifreeze and some water to top up, opened coolant bleed valves and gave some pipes a squeeze and shut them and check final level.

Then, when ready, bit the bullet and went for the ignition keys. Checked that all was good and nothing fouling on open belts etc. and turned the key. It fired up and nothing went bang!

So, belt covers back on (needed to pop the engine mount off again to make that easy or it's a lot of flexing of the front cover!), checking everything is tight and done up as I went, engine mount tight, remove the jack under the engine, undertray and wheelarch liner back in, wheel on and torqued, aux belt on and tensioned, all pipes etc. back in place.

Dropped the car down and fired it up (no belt noise now!) to let it run, get warm and bleed / check the coolant level. Think nearly all the air was out as no dramas there and then decided it was time to head out for a test drive. All lovely and when I got up to 40mph in 4th I thought to myself...what if I engage cruise control?

And what do you know - it's working again!

It would appear that the timing from the previous belt change must have been out by enough to throw a synchronisation error between cam and crank and thus disengage cruise operation. Was it the slack in the keyway allowing slight mis-timing? I can never be sure as the crank pulley was off before I tried to pin the cam and crank.

There you have it folks - lack of cruise solved!

Thanks for taking the time to read all that but felt it was good to get it recorded.

Cheers gang.

Jonty

p.s. not fully checked my grammar, spelling or all procedure steps are in the above but I will :-)