Ignition barrel, blower fan problem, is there a fix?

[djheath]

I've had the common problem where the blower fan doesn't work unless you wiggle the ignition around and then it kicks in. A few months ago I managed to cable tie the wire in place so it would always work, but now its started broken again and I cannot get it to stay in position to keep the fan blowing. When I take the steering wheel cover off I can get it to work, but as soon as I assemble it all back again it is just too intermittent.

So, skip to end!, is there a fix that can be done without changing the ignition barrel? I have searched through the forum and someone mentioned running a 12v feed to the blower from the battery, but it's not clear. Is this is something that can be done?

Any pointers would be great.

Thanks.

[lozz]

yours is d9 ipresume ?

if so run a 12v feed from battery,
there are Flaws tho you will get a Battery charge fault showing ocaisionaly other that it operates just the same as it did before
no switch needed,
but if the feed is constantly looped there will be a slight drop in volts not enough to stop the car from starting but the bsi picks up on this volts drop, hence the ocaisional Battery charge fault warning flagging up,

ive only had it flag up ocaisionaly its not a everyday thing,

[lozz]

oh forgot to add please shout me if you want to go forward with this and iwill provide you with a guide on how to do it and what wire too loop,

[djheath]

Thanks.

Yep it's a D9.

So, I run a 12v feed from the battery, but too where? I have had blower motor off before but cant remember the connectors. I take it there will be a three wires going to it? Ground, 12v live and variable live to change the fan speed. I just need to wire a permanent live to the 12v permanent live. Is that correct
Thanks again.

[TRAVIS BICKLE]

I had the same thing with my old 2.1, in the end the barrel collapsed and the key would not come out, Replace the ignition barrel before this happens

[djheath]

oh forgot to add please shout me if you want to go forward with this and iwill provide you with a guide on how to do it and what wire too loop,

Shout!!

Yes please!

[lozz]

oh forgot to add please shout me if you want to go forward with this and iwill provide you with a guide on how to do it and what wire too loop,

Shout!!

Yes please!

hang fire a minute mate and iwill go and rip the bottom of my dash out and check which wire i patched into

[lozz]

green plug conector block - push your live feed in to the red wire the otherside of the conector block changes colour to a greyish coloured wire ,

the green conector block as a red band in the middle you carnt miss it

[lozz]

ihope that made sense
just shout me if it didnt,

might be best using a fused link too if your not 100% on this,

[stealthe]

I suffered a similar problem on one of my D9 406s. There was a dodgy contact in the ignition switch that caused the casing to melt in the end. An early warning sign was that the key got hot if the fan was up high. You don't need to swap the lock/key if you act in time. The switch/wiring detaches from the barrel/lock and is plugged in below the steering column. I got a replacement loom section from a breakers for a fiver.

Be aware that there are different looms on various models/age vehicles. While trawling the breakers I also found a loom that had been modified with a relay. the wires supplying the fan had been cut off the switch and connected to a relay triggered by the ignition. I didn't realise at the time what it was for, but once I had mine disassembled I twigged.

stealthe