Blower motor

[Captain Jack]

406 had to come to the rescue today as the 407 wouldn't start due to a crappy battery. Was barely turning over the starter... so it's off to local motor factors for a new one.

While on the way there, the air blower stopped working 5 minutes into the journey. So, I froze to death driving. Measured the two wires going to the motor under the glove box and there is power going to it. Strangely, there's power going to it no matter whether the motor speed is set to full blast or nothing at all. Weird.

About to tackle removing the motor to see if there's anything stuck in there, stopping it from moving... or could it be the resistors behind the console? Though if there's power to the motor, it should turn, right?

Anything else I should be checking?

[Captain Jack]

The motor is fine. Looks like the resistor pack thing (which isn't actually a resistor pack) died. There is voltage across the terminals but as soon as the motor is connected, the voltage drops to 0. At first I thought it was a seized motor but connecting it to a 12v battery disproves that theory. Took the control module thing (resistor pack) out and looks like there are a couple of dry joints. So going to solder them up and see if it helps...

[mjb]

Or could just be that one of the mosfets has suffered too much heat over the years and died. Dunno what the D9 "resistor pack" looks like, but if you can get access to the transistors inside, replacing the bad part should be a lot cheaper than getting a new one, although I guess they'd be the sort of thing you could pick up for a tenner on ebay

[Captain Jack]

Yeah, there's like a small chip inside and a transistor/voltage regulator attached to a massive heat sink. Was thinking of getting the transistor itself (something like a LM317) but too much hassle... Bought a whole new control module as it was only £20 delivered...

[steve_earwig]

20 quid? Hardly worth breaking the soldering iron out

[Captain Jack]

Lightning does strike twice. Found that the heater control flap in my 407 broke... causing it to be stuck in the cold position... yay.. Thankfully, it's only the passenger side (it's dual climate, don't you know) but it's only matter of time until the driver's side breaks.

The fix? Dashboard out job - officially. Unofficially - you cut a hole in the heater box to retrieve a broken flap, glue it back together and put it back in....

[steve_earwig]

What an excellent bit of design

[trem1]

yea sadly its a common fault,surprised you didnt check for it before you bought it, a very good haggling point over a grand to fix at the dealers but there are a couple of places will fix for around the £200 mark. Did you suspect it had this problem before you bought it ??

[Captain Jack]

I knew of this issue before I bought and I did try the driver's side, which was (and still is) warm. But for some reason I didn't check the passenger one

No matter... will be fixed! Heath Robinson style.

[trem1]

If this is the worst problem you have with it, it will be an excellent motor. An easy if painstaking fix

[steve_earwig]

I must admit I'd feel a bit iffy about doing open heater surgery on a car I'd just spent a packet on (unless it was the yoyo - out wi't'chaninsaw )

Got any how to's?

Wonder if there's anything on the repair manual

[steve_earwig]

Wonder if there's anything on the repair manual

Nope, burger all as per There're all the fault codes if anyone cares.

Oh, and there's this which looks mighty useful

3. Adjustment of the airgap of the air conditioning compressor clutch
The airgap of the air conditioning compressor clutch is non-adjustable.

Good luck with the fix CJ, I probably wouldn't rush if it was the driver's side but I know I'd never hear the end of it if it was the passenger's...

[Captain Jack]

What a day. How can two cars develop a similar fault on the same day?

[Puggy2]

Hi I supply these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141101697578? ... 1562.l2649

[Captain Jack]

Fixed... A new module was all that was needed. No doubt a new voltage regulator would have worked just as well.