Key stuck in ignition

[diesel.weasel]

Help,

My ignition key stuck in the ignition with the car running. I managed to stop the car running by stalling it in 4th gear. I removed the battery terminal to stop it running.

After stripping the ignition lock out, I discovered that the 3pence switch had crumbled preventing the key from turning. I thought I had fixed it and reconnected everything only to find that the switch was still jamed in the run position.

I now know that a new sweitch is needed.

Here is the worrying part, when I reconnected the battery, the imobiliser light was on. Does this mean that I will need to have the imobiliser re-coded or is it just because the car was re-powered with the starter switch in the run position?

This is a second hand car and I do not have the imobiliser code. (My car is a D9 with a chipped key imobiliser) how much will it cost to have the code discovered and re-imputed into the immobiliser.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

DW

[diesel.weasel]

Well,

After a phone call to the dealers who told me that a switch could not be bought alone, it had to come with a new key barrel. The price £103 plus vat plus another £17 for the key code. Also it would take 2 to 3 weeks to have it delivered

I went to my local breakers who fortunatley enough had this morning began to dismantle a 406 90 HDI (2001 with 90K on the clock) I had to buy a complete lock set for £35.

Got home and robbed the switch out of the lock set and fitted it to the car with my original barrel.

Car started first time no problems. Much to my relief!!!

I have a lock set and key (Less ignition switch) for a d9 406 saloon for sale. No reasonable offer refused

All well that ends well!

Next job. That bloody knocking noise I've lived with for the last 10K miles.

DW
[align=right]

[DaiRees]

Well done mate, always good to hear a success story

[quicheb]

Help,

My ignition key stuck in the ignition with the car running. I managed to stop the car running by stalling it in 4th gear. I removed the battery terminal to stop it running.

After stripping the ignition lock out, I discovered that the 3pence switch had crumbled preventing the key from turning. I thought I had fixed it and reconnected everything only to find that the switch was still jamed in the run position.

I now know that a new sweitch is needed.

Here is the worrying part, when I reconnected the battery, the imobiliser light was on. Does this mean that I will need to have the imobiliser re-coded or is it just because the car was re-powered with the starter switch in the run position?

This is a second hand car and I do not have the imobiliser code. (My car is a D9 with a chipped key imobiliser) how much will it cost to have the code discovered and re-imputed into the immobiliser.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

DW

Just had the same problem and did same thing - different electrical glitch followed. All dash lights are operative but can't get the heater / AC / demister fans to operate. HAve checked fuses in engine bay and dash. One of the 40A (50A?) fuses for the ignition has failed (presumably associated with melting of plastic collar in ignition set-up), but swapping the fuse for another of same rating turned off the digital display (time/temp/radio station etc) and not the thing that it was meant to be linked. WOW! THere is also now a whine that is audible above muted engine rumble - think it is fan related as it continues for short time after turning off engine immediately after cold start