Battery Query

[Garry]

Hello all, quick query for ye,
(2001 90HDi)
Been having starting problems lately, had the battery load checked and it seemed to be fine. Had the heater plugs replaced as I had them checked and they were knackered.
Thought that should have sorted my starting problem but still no joy. This morning I had a lot of trouble getting the car started after a few attempts the battery went flat. Had to jump start the car using the wifes car but that didn't work out too well either as it still seemed that the battery was drained even though it was connected to the wifes car. Left it connected with the wifes motor running for 10 mins and it started first time.
Do ye think that I have a battery problem even though the battery passed the load test.

[mjb]

Sounds like the "load test" was woefully inadequate and didn't come near to testing the sort of current the starter needs

[steve_earwig]

Hi there!

Never underestimate the uselessness of cheap jump leads.

It does sound like the battery hasn't got much capacity left tho. Have that tested again properly, as well as your alternator output...

[Longintooth]

Let's assume the battery is ok cos you had it tested by a professional. You jump it with your wife's car and it makes no difference. If you put the jump leads (assuming they are good) to the battery terminals. Try putting the negative directly to a good earth on the engine. If it works, then your problem maybe a bad earth from your battery to earth. Warning - if it is a serious bad earth such as no lights appear on your dash when you turn the key initially, follow the negative lead to the engine and check the connection. Oh - just a warning if you had to start the engine and there were no dash lights on initially do not disconnect the jumper leads at this point. Let it charge up a while first. Turn off, disconnect the jumpers, then try starting, otherwise you may blow the surge diode in the alternator because it will not accept running in open circuit and that is what a totally dead battery will appear to it. Hope you understand this. Just to make it more complicated don't try starting the engine with your donor car running - you risk blowing the surge diode in that one.

This is just one possibility if it does not give you a result, other faults such as starter motor solenoid sticking etc , etc, etc - start with the easiest - it could just end up with the daftest most unlikely fault imaginable.

[Busman]

Hi.

Just adding my pennies worth to agree with Steve. Never undersestimate the uselessness of cheap jump leads. The ones we have for work cost £80 per set, but they will have almost no voltage drop on most engines up to about twelve litres. Purchase a decent set and use them for the rest of your life.

Richard.

[steve_earwig]

I burned my hand on a cheap set (or is that scalded?) Either way, molten plastic stuck to your hand isn't funny.

[teamster1975]

Either way, molten plastic stuck to your hand isn't funny.

Most definitely seconded.
A blob of molten solder makes your eyes water too!

[steve_earwig]

You mean you didn't get a hole in yourself from a mig yet? Give it time...

One of my better moves was over-ballancing, putting my hand out to stop myself and finding the 100 watt soldering iron I was using at the time, right across my palm.

[Longintooth]

Garry - They are right leads have to be good and if they are and you still got the problem and the battery proves ok and no bad earth - Check this out -
If you are getting a click from the starter similar to a flat battery, there is a small lucar connector that feeds the starter solenoid pull the wire off and connect a free wire to your positive terminal, if you get the same click that proves your ignition switch/relay is ok. If it starts then that is the problem. If it was just clicking the solenoid, (which is the bit that slams the contacts together) is faulty - either the contacts or the solenoid itself. A quick check would be to tap the solenoid with a small hammer as you connect with the battery - if it turns that's your problem. You can buy one separately from any factor and is easy to fit.

[Garry]

To be honest lads, the leads are just a cheap set that I bought a while back just to have in the car in case of an emergency.

Regarding the battery / starting. The dash is lighting up and the car will turn over but won't fire up on very cold morns. The more attempts at trying to start e.g. after fourth or fifth 5 sec turn over the turn over gets noticably slower.

I've priced batteries here and it's amazing the difference in prices. I'm living in the Republic of Ireland so priced a few places here and it's averaging out between €110-120, at the minute with the exchange rate thats approx £105-110.
I've priced the batteries in Northern Ireland and I'm getting prices anywhere between £45 and £65. Guess where I'll be buying my battery

[Longintooth]

Oh - right so it's a starting not a flat battery problem. Well in cold weather a diesel requires a lot of starter amps and you will soon flatten a tinky battery such as fitted these days. Make sure the heater plugs are working when you turn the key - from then on what condition the engine is in. It should start good after 5 secs turnover first time. Buying a new battery may not cure the problem unless it's really sluggish. If it turns over as fast as your wife's car as an example then you need to look for something else.

[mjb]

finding the 100 watt soldering iron I was using at the time, right across my palm.

ooooh stringy!

(and smelly )