What would you strip/Peugeot weak points

[Catflem]

I'm new to Peugeot ownership, so I've got no idea of their weak points at the moment.

Scrapyards are few and far between in my part of the world, but I've spotted the same model 406 as mine (a 2002 HDI 90) in a scrapyard 40 miles away. Its an old fashioned type of yard, you have to remove the parts yourself so the prices are reasonable.

What parts would you strip off and lay aside, just in case ? (in other words what parts give you the most problems).

[Gary406]

thats hard to say really with the 406 .
they are generally a very good reliable motor .

maybe electric items like the MFD (multi function display)
or the comm2000 stalk ,.. thats the stalk unit that controls wipers, lights , indicators.
on the D9s its one whole unit that costs about 140 quid to replace.

[steve_earwig]

How much do they want for the entire car?

This is one of those "how long is a piece of string?" questions again. Lots of things could go wrong but that's not saying they will go wrong, and of course whatever does go wrong you won't have.

Let me pause for reflection for a second...
Lift pump (if they're both Bosch obviously) Seems like it's only a matter of time.
Air flap recirculation motor. Small box full of tiny, fragile, gears. Expensive to replace (although not essential)
Com2000. They do break and are seriously expensive (140 quid? Did the price go down?)
Exhaust flexy and cat. All one expensive bit, the flexy will break if the rear engine mount goes and you don't notice/ignore it for a while.
Power steering HP pipe. An occasional one but very expensive to replace if the breakers are suddenly devoid of them. You can't drive your car without it unless you want to replace the p/s pump too.
Clutch slave cylinder. Seem to die unexpectedly sometimes. Car useless without.
Front struts. Road springs seem to have a habit of breaking. Would be best to replace with new springs (& top bearing while you're there). Not to pricey but can put your car out of action for a while so a spare you can shove straight in there would be nice.
Driveshafts. Not that the UJs go, the ABS rotors can rust and break and are a pain to replace. Easier to have a shaft ready to go in.
MFD. Occasional failure.
Injector rail with sensors. I can't remember which one it is but one of them does fail.
Injectors. May as well have them while you're there. Not much of a problem but can get very noisy with age.
Heater blower motor. The power diodes die.
Ignition switch. Not sure how common it is on D9s but on D8s can develop poor connections.
Air con condenser. They seem to rot out every now and then.
Airbag ecu. Well, my D8's went.
MAF sensor. Be good to have a spare.

May as well pocket the fag lighter for Highlander while you're there

[Catflem]

I knew my question was inane, and very much along the lines of "how long is a piece of string", but thanks go to Steve and Gary for the perfect replies. I'd seen references to the Com2000 on the forum, but didn't have a clue what it was

I'll see if I can cut a deal with the guy for most (if not all) of the bits listed......... I've just got to find out where some of those parts are found on the car, and identify what they look like

[steve_earwig]

Don't pay too much for stuff you don't absolutely need! E.g. if they guy wants say 200 quid for the injectors remember they're the same thing on many cars.
This might help:

MAF is #14, the fuel rail is the bit up the top usefully without a number.
While I'm looking at it, the double relay (#2) occasionally gives trouble, as does the speedometer transducer (#7)

If you have to take the com2000 off yourself you might want to take the right tools - there's a how to for changing it here: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=7617 Hopefully the battery will be already out so you don't have to worry about disarming the airbags (everyone just disconnects the battery and leaves it a while anyway). It might look like a pain but if it's not been changed already it'll be the part you're most likely to need.

Don't forget it'll be cold while you're doing this so remember to take your big coat. You know, the one with the big pockets

[Gary406]

more than 140 quid

were did i get that from then

[steve_earwig]

They're up towards 200 quid on Service Box, unless you've got ESP in which case they're more like 400

Hold on, if you've got ESP wouldn't you know to sell the car on before you need a new com2000?

[Gary406]

i must be thinking 2nd hand price then

[Catflem]

Don't forget it'll be cold while you're doing this so remember to take your big coat. You know, the one with the big pockets

I think I'll measure the size of the comm2000 before I go, and then make sure I've got the right jacket on , the prices being mentioned are

Err, on second thoughts, having just read your how to remove it thread, it might be staying exactly where it is, I'll leave the lights and wipers switched on to auto, and never use my indicators again.................. which should be easy enough as I use to have a Volvo or 2

[sirwiggum]

Com2000. Quickly check the one in the scrapyard isn't held together by rolled up paper or string.
It should function as an indicator does. down left, up -> centre. up right, down -> centre. No up -> right or down -> left action otherwise leave it.

If you can lift the flexi (usually comes with the cat) as the hdi chews these if the mounts are worn.
Maybe lift some mounts if they aren't worn? Though on a scrapped car probably not even worth looking at.

Lift the CD player and get it coded to your VIN, keep as a spare.

Lift the electric windows drivers side controller.

If the fuel filter housing is the same shape as yours, lift it. Put a new fuel filter in it, make sure it is tightened, no airlocks / fuel leaks, keep as a renewable and alternate with the current.

Any door seals, bits of trim etc.