Buying PEUGEOT 406 2.0 HDi 110 LX (2000)

[flyerdave]

Hi to all

I am thinking of buying a PEUGEOT 406 2.0 HDi 110 LX - Year 2000

What problems does this model suffer from so I can check it out.

Need quick answer please from those of you that have one.

thanks

[gumby6371]

hi mate, don't own a hdi but they are good cars and 'should be' pretty economical to run. Plenty of help available on here if you do buy and I'd reccomend buying a diesel 406 to anyone as long as it's not been neglected too badly.

I'd be looking for bottom engine mount (excessive engine movement under revs) cheap diy fix but a bit of a pain in the arse to do.

Check the turbo pipe from the intercooler gets pressure under revs, hold the pipe in 1 hand and rev the engine with the other. You should feel it go firm in your hand....ooer. They are known to perish/rot also check rad hoses while you're at it.

Drop links will probably be knackered but a cheap fix common to all 406's. in fact my sister in-laws picasso ate them as well so lots of PSA cars suffer.

Not sure if a dual mass flywheel was fitted to that year/model but make sure you check for clutch slip or judder as DMF issues can be pricey. The bite will be ridiculously high on the pedal but they are all the same so don't worry about that.

Check all the electrics work, damp in the footwell is an issue which messes with the connectors inder the carpets.
They can also be prone to water ingress in the boot but thats usually the seals around the lights, my last car had 4 inches of water in the wheel well, took the lights out cleaned up the rubber seals and fitted back in nice and tight - job done (apart from mopping up the swimming pool) some people silicon them to keep them water tight.

Also blower motors can be iffy, run the fans up to full speed, faulty wiring from the ignition is the usual suspect on HDI's or even a dead motor which I had on my mk 1. Again should be a cheap fix with help from forum members.

If it's an aircon model give that a blast to, can be expensive to fix if you're bothered about having aircon, personlly I'm not but you can knock a few quid off the asking price.

The 110 should pull well so give it some stick on the test drive and check your mirrors for excessive smoke.

Other than that the usual applies, check the coolant is free from oil and have a look underneath for signs of nasty leaks, doesn't pull to the side under breaking, tracks relatively straight etc.........

Good luck and hope you grab a bargain

[lozz]

You missed one off the list gumby,


* (Crappy handbrake's )


Some of the Early D9s escaped having the Dmf,

[waue1978]

What you're buying is virtually identical to mine. I bought mine with 78k on the clock & 2 years later (& 14k later) here's what I've had to do:

New centre & rear exhaust - £200 (including £100 MOT & service deal)

Cambelt, aux belt, water pump & bottom pulley (doesn't have to be changed every time cambelt is done as the new part is uprated from what they left the factory with) - £450

New handbrake switch (located under rear of centre console & causes BRAKE FLUID LEVEL LOW message on MFD) - £10 DIY

New coolant temperature sensor - £30 DIY

New rear caliper as old one was seized - £300 (includes £120 MOT & service deal & new rear pads)

New air con condensor - £300 (including regas)

New drive shaft (to remedy abs fault caused by broken abs ring) - £100

Replace rear door lock mechanism (caused random central locking faults - common fault in many but mine was caused by a careless pre-adolescent) - £20 DIY

New rear trailing arms - £250 (including £120 MOT & service deal & 1 new tyre)

HDi 110s come with the dual mass flywheel. The only exceptions are the D8 (pre 1999 facelift) modls which had the solid flywheel. All D9 110s had the dual mass flywheel, but they aren't as much of an issue on these as they are with other modern diesels. My old Mondeo TDDi had evidence of a clutch & DMF change at 70k & a TDCi that I test drove had a knackered clutch at 84k. Doggy's remapped 2.2 HDi 406 is on the original clutch & flywheel at 170k.

[lozz]

My 2000 Vreg didnt have Dmf mate,

igot told that it never had one, when ihad the Gearbox rebuilt,

[gumby6371]

Do you think the poor bloke will go anywhere near a 406 after reading all that?

It does look bad when it's all listed like that but I suppose you could do a much longer list for many many other cars of that age.

The fact that many of us are on our 2nd or 3rd 406 must say something - great cars or we're all idiots - take your pick

[highlander]

I suppose you could do a much longer list for many many other cars.

Fixed that for you

Thinking of the many cheap and not-so-cheerful cars that have come out over the years that have had serious issues here - like the 407 1.6HDi eating turbos, or all the K-series Rovers blowing their head gaskets, or the spontaneously-combusting Ferrari 458 Italias, or the Mercedes-Benz A-Class MPVs that drowned going through little puddles, or the Alfa-Romeos... well... falling apart pretty frequently, or the Lancias rusting 5 minutes after you buy 'em...

I don't believe there's a single model of car out there that hasn't encountered some sort of EPIC FAIL from new.

The 406 is much-maligned because it is French. Many of these issues can (and do) exist on other cars, French or otherwise.

[Doggy]

406 HDi's are generally a rock-solid, reliable, cheap means of transport that offer relaxed, comfortable cruising, good fuel economy, decent handling and loads of space.

In my personal opinion,I would always go for a top-spec, (Executive / GTX / SE), model - they don't cost any more to buy and are nicer to live with, giving you all the toys including my personal fads, armrests and cruise control.

Good idea to know your engine choices too. (Highly personal / contentious view this), but I recommend 2.0 HDi 110 for acceptable performance & best economy, 2.2 HDi 136 for ultimate refinement and performance, but it is more thirsty.

They're all good cars, choose the right one for you and it could be, (as I feel mine is), much better than you would expect for the money.

[steve_earwig]

My god yes, talk about a litany of disaster

1998 2.1td owned from 2004 to 2009: changed front springs & top bearings, clutch, injectors, rear disks & pads and the traditional front arb drop links. Needed some welding on the sills (I should have spotted it sooner )

2004 2.0 HDi 2008 to present: Changed timing belt & pulleys twice now because the water pump fitted by PEUGEOT failed (I could have put everything else back but fuggit), recirculating flap has failed (I have a replacement but my back's not up to it), handbrake cables & shoes replaced in an attempt to improve the handbrake, all disks & pads replaced. The usual front arb drop links.

2004 Toyotter RAV4 2.0 VVVVVVVTI owned from December 2011 to present: New clutch (old one was serviceable but incredibly heavy), changed all transmission fluids (most expensive oils on the market ) new cat & lambdas (for sale: 1 kidney). Fortunately all drop links, tract rod ends etc. had been replaced prior to my ownership


I suppose the bottom line is this is a 12-year old car, if it's been looked after it'll be a joy, if it's been neglected it'll set fire to your wallet.

Make sure the air con blows cold - the condensers can rot. Check everything electric - it might be pushing it to expect everything to work but know your enemy Inspect sill rubber seals for missing clips - it's getting to the age when lost or broken clips & blocked drains might cause the sills to rot from the inside out. Expect clattery injectors, they're a nuisance but nothing to worry about.