
I'll tell you what though, all this slippage is probably not going to be good for the old clutch...
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I can assure you that what I have said is correct.OdinEidolon wrote:Tbh I don't think I need to have someone tell me what acceleration is... What you say is wrong.
That is not correct - when you dump the clutch the wheels will accelerate, but equally the engine may decelerate depending on its inertia. And that is the key to everything inertia not energy. There will be a limiting friction that gives a maximum accelerating force without wheelspinning. If you exceed that limit the wheels will start to spin, as they spin they will throw up small anounts of the surface they are on (snow or mud for example) the reaction from that will provide a tiny accelerating force. Climbing out of a stream in a 4x4 one technique is to floor it an let is scramble out by digging down to good ground, climbing up a steep incline on good ground and you use the crawler gears and you do not wheelspin.OdinEidolon wrote:When you depress the clutch the wheels go all of a sudden from 0 to 5mph (1st) or to ~double that (2nd gear). Of course you can modulate this by depressing the clutch very slowly, but not too much.
This is the crux of your confusion - accelerating a mass is not a matter of conservation of energy, it is an inertial problem and therefore conservation of momentum.OdinEidolon wrote:You just want road speed to match wheel speed (well, I don't agree: in certain situations wheelspin helps you going), since road speed is 0, you want to start the lowest possible. Torque is not a factor here. Of course in lower gear there is more torque: torque is just how much energy is transmitted to the wheel per engine rotation. Nm = Joules not by chance! This energy at stationary speeds is of course dissipated. Since total torque is constant (provided by the engine) lower wheel speed means more torque.
Launch control in F1 allows for maximum power transfer to the wheels by preventing them from going into a wheelspin. Sort of like ABS in reverse.OdinEidolon wrote:Have you ever seen F1 racers start in 2nd gear? Or racecars? Those also have so much power that they spin wheels at the slightest blimp of the throttle, even on the tarmac. What's the difference?
Agreed on that one and in general on the above.jonsowman wrote:It gets a bit handwavey, but as well the torque T which causes Fd, there is the additional torque T' = I*d(omega)/dt (moment of inertia - fixed, multiplied by angular acceleration). This additional torque is the reason that, as you say, dumping the clutch in first would cause wheelspin but gently releasing the clutch is less likely to do so.
Now, there is more torque available in first than second (at a given engine power output): P = Tw. This is obvious - it is the reason you pull away in 1st, then move up to 2nd, 3rd, etc. The increased available torque means that rate of change of torque with transmission input speed (dT/dn) is greater, and so small movements of the throttle are likely to cause larger angular accelerations in 1st compared to 2nd. If this exceeds the frictional force Fr, the wheel will slip. The increase in transmission input speed can come either from further engaging the clutch (reducing clutch slippage) or increasing engine speed - they are one and the same as far as this is concerned.
Therefore for less experienced drivers, using 2nd means that their not-so-good clutch/accelerator control has less effect on angular acceleration and is therefore less likely to cause wheel slip. For experienced drivers, 1st gives you more control at the expense of requiring greater skill.
I believe that 3rd and above are not generally recommended since:
1) The output torque is so low that it begins to require good clutch control again in order not to stall the engine.
2) Due to the gear ratios the clutch slip duration would be longer in order that the vehicle can accelerate to above stall speed before the clutch is fully engaged, and that final speed would be too high for the conditions.
You are entirely correct in that some slipping is required, in fact the coefficient of friction of rubber increases slightly as it begins to slip (weird material).
As a side note, I notice you used "\mu". Are you a TeX user by any chance?
I've just driven 15 miles to work, I drove down my street which is pretty bad with compacted snow (although it's much better since I personally cleared the turn around area at the top and gritted the whole street yesterday), maybe 100 metres to the next road, which is clear, then a main road, then a dual carriageway, then another main road, then an access road (which has been cleared) then the works car park which has a bit of snow but is dead flat. So I was actually on snow & ice for about 110 metres out of the 15 miles, the rest is just wet roads. I'll do the reverse trip this afternoon and that's my lot, tomorrow it'll be better, in a couple of days there'll be nothing.KozmoNaut wrote:And as for the "I'll just drive carefully" argument, it's bunk. When there's ice and snow on the road, there is no way you can drive carefully enough that you're able to stop if someone runs out it front of you, even if you go 10mph and cause a traffic jam. Summer tyres are absolutely useless on snow and ice, even on dry roads in cold weather winter tyres fare better. Only if by "driving carefully" you mean "I'll stay home if there's any snow at all" can your decision to forego winter tyres be OK in any way.
I don't know which kind of tyres you're used to, but Pirelli PZeros are absolutely rubbish on cold wet roads. If you've tried driving around on average winter roads on a good pair of winter tyres, you'd know that there is absolutely no comparison. "Driving carefully" is all well and good, but are you absolutely certain of how long your braking distance is on a near freezing cold wet road driving on performance summer tyres?DaiRees wrote: Temperatures are dropping to about -3 overnight and are reaching +3 during the day this week, any frequently used roads are gritted so they aren't icy, they're just wet. I appreciate that the performance of my Pirelli PZero tyres may be reduced due to the temperature, but I'm aware of this and am driving carefully to compensate for it. This is still considerably less dangerous than the millions of people driving around on shyte quality or poorly maintained tyres.
2 weeks ago it was 10 degrees and raining, the long range forecast for a week today says 6 degrees and raining, and that's winter finished! So, the upshot is that if I had winter tyres they'd only really be useful for 2-3 weeks, and would actually have done less than a mile on snow and ice. And they want £1000 for a decent set of winter tyres on rims for my car??! IN MY CASE it simply isn't worth it.
Are you purposely going out of your way to miss my point?KozmoNaut wrote:I don't know which kind of tyres you're used to, but Pirelli PZeros are absolutely rubbish on cold wet roads. If you've tried driving around on average winter roads on a good pair of winter tyres, you'd know that there is absolutely no comparison. "Driving carefully" is all well and good, but are you absolutely certain of how long your braking distance is on a near freezing cold wet road driving on performance summer tyres?
As long as temperatures are below 10 degrees, winter tyres fare better than summer tires. They have softer rubber compounds to deal with lower temperatures as well as aggressive tread patterns to deal with snow (and mud). So they are in fact tyres for general winter conditions, including slush and wet roads. Dedicated snow/ice tyres are something else altogether, they usually have studs in them or look like gnarly offroad tyres (because that's what they are).
I live in Denmark, we have pretty much the same climate as the UK. Some snow, but mostly slush and temperatures hovering right around the freezing point. Winter tyres are not strictly necessary 60-80% of the time, but when they're needed, they're really NEEDED to make any sort of safe progress. I have mine on generally from November till March, which is when the average temperature climbs above 10 degrees.
trem1 wrote:so you dont think winter tyres are any good then Dai............................
Do not fall in the common error... a 4x4 without winter tyres is not much safer than a standard vehicle without winter tyres. You have more traction but the overall handling and grip on snow lower due to the higher body and high weight. small 4x4 + 4 good winter tyres is the bestDaiRees wrote:Or again, for the same kind of money I may opt to get an old 4X4 and leave my lovely car safely at home.
oh i think Dai of all of us is aware of the handling of 4x4's, did you ever see any pic's of his Suzuki out in the wild ???OdinEidolon wrote:Do not fall in the common error... a 4x4 without winter tyres is not much safer than a standard vehicle without winter tyres. You have more traction but the overall handling and grip on snow lower due to the higher body and high weight. small 4x4 + 4 good winter tyres is the bestDaiRees wrote:Or again, for the same kind of money I may opt to get an old 4X4 and leave my lovely car safely at home.
Unfortunately not, but must be good stufftrem1 wrote:oh i think Dai of all of us is aware of the handling of 4x4's, did you ever see any pic's of his Suzuki out in the wild ???OdinEidolon wrote:Do not fall in the common error... a 4x4 without winter tyres is not much safer than a standard vehicle without winter tyres. You have more traction but the overall handling and grip on snow lower due to the higher body and high weight. small 4x4 + 4 good winter tyres is the bestDaiRees wrote:Or again, for the same kind of money I may opt to get an old 4X4 and leave my lovely car safely at home.