Hi all - New (to be) owner here!

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:22 am

Hi all,
I just put down a deposit on a T-reg 406 2.0 Hdi that I get to pick up next weekend.
I'm selling my 306 GTi-6 back to the person I bought it from and replacing it with my first tractor

The 6 has been utterly brilliant for two years and never missed a beat but I've recently moved and now have double the mileage to get to work and back so it seems silly to keep the 6.

So anyway, onto 406 type matters.
(Yes I waffle a lot, you'll find that out over the coming years - So I apologise now

I've put a deposit on a grey very tidy 406 with 114k.
Engine sounds pretty quiet and is clean with no signs of any wet oil or other leaks.
The suspension is silent over speed bumps and no knocks from the steering.
Admittedly it's going to take me a while to get used to the lack of power (compared to the 6) and the brakes, which is something the 6 did well - But the lower fuel costs, comfort levels and the fact I can now go round mini roundabouts without doing a 5 point turn will make up for it I'm sure

Oh and I actually find the 406 seats loads better than the phase3 GTi-6 seats because they seem to be narrower and hug me better.

The only fault I noticed is the engine immobiliser light seems to be on when driving it - Even though the car starts ok (Well I did get stranded at one point when I turned it off on the test drive and struggled to restart it but I think that was just me being a hamfist and not being used to this glowplug starting malaky)
The dealer started it twice for me to prove it starts fine.
The dealer also assured me that all it just needs a battery in the keyfob because the keyfob is dead.
Sounds like dealership bull to me, but thought I'd ask you guys what it might be.

Other than that the car seems pretty mint with FSH, 2 owners from new, a cam belt change at 72k and 11 months MOT.

So just wanted to give you a "Hi"
I really must stop waffling... lol

Post by **DaiRees** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:18 am

Hang on, is the dealer telling you that the engine management light is on 'cos the battery in the keyfob is flat? That's a new one

Plenty of knowledgable folks on here mate, someone with half an idea about oil burners will be along soon

Welcome by the way

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:17 am

DaiRees wrote:Hang on, is the dealer telling you that the engine management light is on 'cos the battery in the keyfob is flat? That's a new one

Plenty of knowledgable folks on here mate, someone with half an idea about oil burners will be along soon

Welcome by the way

Thanks for the welcome mate!

Not the engine management light, it's the immobiliser light (I think they are different lights - Orange one with a key symbol at the left hand side of the lights.)
I'm hoping it's not too costly to fix or failing that doesn't cause any problems.
The car seems to start so doesn't seem to be fatal

Gus · Post by **Gus** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:52 am

Welome Eric,

the immobiliser problem sounds to me like the easy fix variety -hopefully this is the case - dont bother with the "tyring to fit the new battery yourself then re-programme the key bits and pieces"

take it straight into the Stealers when you have it - get them to replace the battery -re programme the key if it requires it (probebly will if the battery been out any length of time) and get the to reset the lights on the control panel - shouldnt cost too much

and then is should be plain sailing for there in,

oh yes and welcome along again - there is defo a large knowledge base on this forum, and im sure you will get more replies in the near future.

Post by **Welly** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 11:05 am

Hi fella

You'll have the same same as me, a T plate HDi, you've not said if it's the 110 or the 90?

Anyways, it should NOT be difficult to start and don't put it down to the glow plugs. Even in deepest winter the glow plug light only comes on for about 2 seconds

If it's a trader then you should have that fault fixed before you buy - and a copy of the invoice for the repairs. If they can't do anything then I wouldn't bother with it - there are loads out there and you need to take your time to get a good'un.

My T reg has cost me £1,000.00 in 12 months for these little bits:

Air con condenser £300.00
Broken road spring £90.00
Radiator cooling fan £280.00 (loads of diagnostic work because engine light was on)
Bottom Pulley failure £230.00
New eggsauce for MOT £90.00

PENDING WORK - Clutch and DMF £600.00 !!!!

So, choose carfully my friend and try and establish if at least some of the above jobs have been done because believe me they WILL pop up when you least want them and all your fuel savings will be blown out the water

On the plus side then yes a very comfy, capable car returning about 53MPG on a long commute.

Let us know how it goes but DO NOT stand for any of that old bollocks of the Dealer.

Why don't you look for an older D8 2.1td they are cheaper, simpler, and MUCH better - this has been proved on here many times.

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 11:10 am

Gus wrote:Welome Eric,

the immobiliser problem sounds to me like the easy fix variety -hopefully this is the case - dont bother with the "tyring to fit the new battery yourself then re-programme the key bits and pieces"

take it straight into the Stealers when you have it - get them to replace the battery -re programme the key if it requires it (probebly will if the battery been out any length of time) and get the to reset the lights on the control panel - shouldnt cost too much

and then is should be plain sailing for there in,

oh yes and welcome along again - there is defo a large knowledge base on this forum, and im sure you will get more replies in the near future.

Thank you!
Your post made me breathe a sigh of relief

Never heard of such a confusing set up with an immobiliser but I've seen a few posts on here about the whole key coding thing.

Other than that I can't think of any other issues, so hope it's that simple and then I should have a very nice car

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 11:13 am

Welton wrote:Hi fella

You'll have the same same as me, a T plate HDi, you've not said if it's the 110 or the 90?

Anyways, it should NOT be difficult to start and don't put it down to the glow plugs. Even in deepest winter the glow plug light only comes on for about 2 seconds

If it's a trader then you should have that fault fixed before you buy - and a copy of the invoice for the repairs. If they can't do anything then I wouldn't bother with it - there are loads out there and you need to take your time to get a good'un.

My T reg has cost me £1,000.00 in 12 months for these little bits:

Air con condenser £300.00
Broken road spring £90.00
Radiator cooling fan £280.00 (loads of diagnostic work because engine light was on)
Bottom Pulley failure £230.00
New eggsauce for MOT £90.00

PENDING WORK - Clutch and DMF £600.00 !!!!
So, choose carfully my friend and try and establish if at least some of the above jobs have been done because believe me they WILL pop up when you least want them and all your fuel savings will be blown out the water

On the plus side then yes a very comfy, capable car returning about 53MPG on a long commute.

Let us know how it goes but DO NOT stand for any of that old bollocks of the Dealer.

Why don't you look for an older D8 2.1td they are cheaper, simpler, and MUCH better - this has been proved on here many times.

Hi Welton,
It's the 110 HDi (Wanted something with a little bit of power

)
My dad has a D9 1.9TD and I like the new dash/ fuel computer but I always thought the HDi were better for economy and performance which is why I wanted the HDi rather than the TD.

Bit of an oil burner newbie tbh so any advice is appreciated

Post by **DaiRees** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 12:57 pm

Eric wrote:Not the engine management light, it's the immobiliser light (I think they are different lights - Orange one with a key symbol at the left hand side of the lights.)

Ah, that'll teach me to read posts properly.

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 1:02 pm

Just a quick question.

What are the points for when I post?
Do points mean prizes?

If they do I'm such a post whore I'm bound to win!

Post by **DaiRees** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 1:06 pm

You'll never catch Welton mate, he's the original and best post whore - 50267 Points

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 1:17 pm

DaiRees wrote:You'll never catch Welton mate, he's the original and best post whore - 50267 Points

Wouldn't guarantee that mate

Give me a few months but I do live on forums at work and home!

Post by **Welly** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 1:29 pm

When I get to 51000 points Niz has to give me £500.00 - that is what the ''Donations'' are for. It's not for the forum running costs it's for the 'executive' members.

A bit like how chairman's get paid for doing f*ck all

Post by **DaiRees** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 1:43 pm

Speak of the devil and there he is.... once again talking any old shyte just to get his points up

Eric · Post by **Eric** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 3:02 pm

Another quick question.

How do I tell if my car is a D9 or D8?
I'm assuming it's a D8 because it's identical I think to my Dad's 2000 1.9 DT but doesn't have the fuel computer.

Can anyone tell me what the interior changes are between D8s and D9s?

Post by **Welly** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 3:36 pm

Now this IS something I can answer............

A D8 is the older N/P/R/S reg 406's

A D9 is the facelift one (in my sig).

D9's have the BSi control module, the multi-function display thingy, HDi engines (although a few late D8's had these) and the Climate Control is different and general other, err, 'improvements'.

There - see, I can be of use sometimes