REAR DROPLINKS

[marco2002]

Hi evryone

Just bought a set of rear droplinks today. Just been having a look at the ones that are on the car. The bottom nylock looks like a pig to get off theres no room to get a spanner in and the bar i've got fouls on the caliper. Tried a few different ways with the long bar and socket with a sliding t-bar on the end the the socket and bar have to go on at an angle as the caliper is in the way. I was thinking a wobble bar would do it needs about 10 to 15 degrees. I haven't got a wobble bar so may have to borrow one. Failing that i might have to cut it off. any advice appreciated

Heres hoping these last longer than 6 months i bought them from gsf so the quality is a bit better.
Thanks

[Gary406]

john (jasper5) took my bottom nut off using a impact rench connected to a compressor.

it didnt want to come off but a few spins backwards and forwards and it did finally come off.
he also used wd40 and kept untightening it then he would tighten it back up.
it eventually came off.

if i was you mate and i didnt have a compressor and wrench i would defo grind it off with an angle grinder.

(thats the way i remove mine when i do it. i dont even attemt anymore with sockets or spanners cos there always stuck solid.

[marco2002]

Hi

Droplinks fitted now. 2.5 hrs to do. Took a bit of fiddling about.
I didn't have the right tools and couldn't find a shop round here that had any wobble extension bars so a friend loaned me a set of Halfords ratchet spanners that were flexible and can move through 10 to 15 degrees also had a nifty attachment that turned it into a ratchet as well. Quite impressed with them made the job a bit easier. Managed to just get the ratchet end in with a 16mm socket on the end and i didn't have any bother getting the nylocks off just used a wire brush to clean up and some plus gas guess i was lucky!

I had to move the abs sensor wire out the way. When i put the new droplinks on i put some coppaslip on the threads so they don't seize. Quite satisfying to know i saved a few quid reckon it would have been an hours labour at the garage which is £57.00.

Next job front droplinks and new roll bar bushes probably do it at the weekend if the weather holds out........

[Gary406]

glad you got them sorted mate. did you put the bolt back in the same place ? the one on the inner side ?

front are a bit easier. again i just use angle grinder to grind the bolt off much easier that way.

ps - why you changing the anti roll bar bushes ? they dont usually fail on a 406

[panadero]

I recently posted a rattle problem on my 406 2004 2.0 HDI estate and thanks for all the comments. Can Gary or anyone please explain what a rear drop link or top link is? My Haynes refers to rear susp lower arm, upper arm, trailing arm and track arm so the top link/drop link must be one of those. Are the track arms horizontal links that travel from the top of the hub to the chassis? At present I'm swapping around the rear shocks in the hope that the rattle will migrate too indicating faulty shock. But I suspect Gary is right and this is wishful thinking on my part. On the bright side, the cost of a replacement top link (DIY) could well work out less than a new shock. Incidentally Kwikfit told me that shocks must be renewed in pairs. Had not heard that one before. In 46 years of driving I've never had a shock problem.

[Gary406]

the top links travel horizontal. in the diagram they are number 6
upper arm i would imagine and cost about £10-£20 from factors each

[Gary406]

also toplink and drop link are 2 different ones. both found on the rear.

the toplink (upper) is metal and goes horizontal
the droplink (lower) is plastic and goes vertical

also number 3 = anti roll bar bush can go and cause knocking/rattling but these would be last on the change list as they dont often go

here is a diagram of the rear droplink - number 5

[panadero]

Thanks a lot pal.

[Gary406]

if your changing the rear topling (number 6) yourself you must paint a line around the inner bolt. paint around the circle bit (only half round it)

and put 3 lines across the bolt and onto the bracket.

this is to ensure that bolt goes back the same way before you tighten it up. if you dont you will need a 4 wheel allignment cos the rear toplink adjusts the camber of the wheels.

its not hard tho mate. paint around the bolt and you will easily get it back the same way.

also this toplink can be changed with the wheel still on the vehicle .

[marco2002]

Hi

o/s/f droplink was replaced a couple of weeks ago so i think its only a matter of time before the n/s/f one goes. MOT coming up soon .Always best to replace as a pair. I thought that seeing as the a/r/b bushes on the front have never been changed might as well do them. The ones on the back were knackered when i took them off last year .Roads around here are pretty hard on the car.

The pug has done 193,000 now so i don't think its too bad they aren't too dear to replace.

Update on the rear droplinks fitted yesterday. The car is much better now no rattling and it sounds quieter on the roads round here which aren't great seeing as i live in a rural area.

Handles much better as well.

[Gary406]

personally i would change them anti roll bar bushes just for the sake of it .. you may get another 5 years out of them

edit - i meant wouldnt change them

[panadero]

Thanks for the paint mark tip Gary. Wheel alignment is something easy to forget. Jacking up
the 406 is not as easy as with my old 306 which had a nice open axle at the rear. I would
appreciate any suggestions as where to safely place the jack underneath rear so as to enable
me to get the axle stands in place at the designated jacking points.

[Gary406]

you could jack it from the back under the axle in the middle. . seen cars jacked up here . just be carefull mate

access is easy with wheel off.

[panadero]

Thanks for that. Rear axle on 406 not too accessible so yes I am being careful about selecting
a jacking point. Fortunately my heavy duty jack works superbly on the 406 estate which is a
heavy swine. I bought a lighter 2 tonne jack (from Machine Mart) for easier handling but
no way does it cut the mustard with the 406. I can thoroughly recommend heavy duty jacks. They do not come cheap but a great long-term investment. Good for safety (critical) and speed. Would make
nice Xmas present from the wife.