406 2.2hdi Limp home mode and turbo probs

[memphisto]

Hi guys,
first post on here but having had a few problems with my 406 google searching seemed to always bring up this forum to look a people withthe same types of problems.

Anyway just had my 406 defapped finally which was the cause of most of my rpevious problmes, however when they were defapping it and reading the fault codes a turb one came up. Now I didnt write down the code, just the description

"boost pressure sensor short to plus or value to high"

now i have had a slightly leaky intercooler for about 2 years, which the guys at the garage advised could be the problem, however the car drove great on the way home and has now gone into limp home mode again, more worryingly theres a whistle noticeable when flooring it which seems to be coming from the silver turbo overflow pipe to the top right of tthe engine.

having read this thread 3 times

http://forums.preloved.co.uk/fuseaction ... 77c08.html

the symptoms seem to be roughly the same, ie. oil in the bottom pipe (there is a small leak of about 50p after i stop) which there most definetly will be as the booom right of the intercooler has been leaking very slightly and oil has been sprayed out.

I did however the other night clean out the air filter and unplg the denso boost sensor, when i plugged it back in the anti pollution light went off for about 20 miles then came back on again in limp home mode.

so my plans for the weekend are to check the pipes for leaks, due to the whistle, clean out the bottom pipes and intercooler, take off and clean out the maf sensor and the boost sensor conacts in the hope that all of the above combine to cure the problem.

I am also going to chage teh fuel filter as my wife ran the car out of diesel a couple of weeks ago and on another thread that has been advised.

does anyone else have any other ideas of things i should check ?

I was going to buy a cheap code reader as well, however having read a lot on that subjectt it seems they wont read the codes on my 2001 model ?


all help appreciated.


memph

[memphisto]

Hi,

well no sure if its cured or not however the light has been off for 10miles so far.

list of things done yesterday, cleaned air filter, taken off maf filter and sprayed with brake cleaner result a few black drops ran out although it did look fairly clean anyway, removed intercooler bottom pipe and cleaned out oil, removed denso boost valve and cleaned small pipe.

Took pipe off eggr valve and the stainless steel one still got warm almos straight away so feeling is the egr is blocked open. blanked it off at the manifold as short term measure till i get some wynns egr3 cleaner delivered this week. Chenger fuel filter and drained, as the fuel in there looked quite murky, whether it had wate rion etc, not sure however as wife ran the car out of diesel a coupld of weeks ago thought changing it would be best.

The whistling seemd to come from the EGR as with it blanked off there is no noiceable whistling as opposed to previously.

car seems to be running better but as we did all of the above a stage at a time, then went for a spin and most of the time the light came back on within 500 yds, Im not actually sure what we did to fix it, if we have lol


After doing all this i rememebred seeing on here that he car needs 10 starts or a long journey fo he light to go off by itself ? if thats the case it could have been the first thing we did that fixed the problem ! however with all cleaned and back togeher im not bothered which thing we did fixed it, just as long as the lightt stays off !

also looking at buyng a Maxidiag Fr704 has anyone had any expeience wih that obd reader and peugeots ?

[Doggy]

Hi memph & welcome

When you removed the FAP, did you get the FAP code deleted from the engine ecu?

Is it remapped?

The only reader that will work, (apart from some top end professional stuff), is a Lexia 3 / Peugeot Planet 2000 clone, (eBay, about £100, search for Lexia 3).

Whereabouts are you, (helps to add your location).

[memphisto]

hi dogslife, yes i got the fap removed fromt he ecu, as the car has 140k miles on though i didn go for the remap as i like the car as is and the extra power from removing the fap plus yhe K&N it has is enough for me


Im from near Durham.


piy about the fr704 was waning that as faher has rover and vauxhall i have pegout and seat so thought it would do all four to a degree

[memphisto]

hi guys, well it returned.

had the fault codes read agin and this is what came up

P0245 Turbo Solenoid
P0235 Turbo Pressure
P0380 Pre Heat Relay
P1421 -- unknown but on googling either somtehing with the egr or catalyst failure
P0402 -- EGR
P0246 turbo pressure

thats tthe descriptions given so all help appreciate here on what to do nextt !

[Doggy]

Difficult to hazard a guess from that lot, but a few possibilities:

You seem to have two turbo pressure faults - (low & high pressure)? if you read it with PP2000, you'll get something like;
'Turbo pressure too high, requested 1000 mBar, actual 2200 mBar', together with suggestions for tracing / localising the problem. There is also a fault message generated if the MAP sensor is disconnected / faulty.

The turbo solenoid & EGR faults are likely to indicate a lack of continuity of the solenoid valve coils and/or absence of one of the ecu supplies or possible bad earth. (The ecu has no feedback for these, so can only establish connectivity on initialisation).

The pre heat relay could be glow plug related, (in which case ignore it, you don't need them), or could mean control for the throttle butterflies that direct the air through the water heated intercooler bypass pipe when the engine's cold or attempting a DPF regen.

Generally, you don't normally get multiple faults simultaneously - try looking for something that could explain most, if not all of the above.

Are you certain the DPF code has been deleted? (If you've got a copy of the current ecu file, I can check if you wish).

[memphisto]

well none of the faults seem dpf related, but i dont currently have a code reader or a way to get a copy of the ecu

In regards to the fault code for the urbo the garage tha deleted my DPF noted the code and showed me on the live data how the turbo was overboosting ? they advised to change the intercooler and the MAP ?

Today when he cleared the faults at the garage and tried again it was the EGR one that was back straight away, so Im guessing the ecu takes a bit longer to notice and report the turbo ones, although I dont know for sure at the moment whether they are back.

I'm going to clean the EGR on friday with wynns EGR cleaner, this may or may not solve that problem.

The only two other areas i can see are the leak from the botttom right of the intercooler, so I may take that off and clean it / seal it with some araldite or something, also the main air intake pipe seems to have some silver duck tape for about 4 inches along the bottom behind the EGR, now it could be heat shield I suppose but if it is duck tape Im wondeing if theres a leak in the pipe, would / could that cause the faults ?

The Map sensor is the denso one at the front above the intercooler isnt it ? if so will any 406 one do or is it specfic to the 2.2hdi as theres a scrap yard near by that has a few 2.0 hdis but no 2.2s, if there the same Im thinking of going and gettin a map sensor or two if there are any and swapping them around.

Same for the solenoid is that a specific part or is it universal ?

again if so I think a trip to the scrappy to get one or two of them mught be in order.

[Doggy]

In regards to the fault code for the urbo the garage tha deleted my DPF noted the code and showed me on the live data how the turbo was overboosting ? they advised to change the intercooler and the MAP ?

Now that sounds a bit more familiar - the overboosting problem is usually a vacuum / solenoid valve issue - one of the guys on the coupe forum (http://www.peugeot406coupe.com), has posted a brilliant article on this: http://www.peugeot406coupe.com/phpBB3/v ... =2&t=35570 well worth a read, (you'll need to sign up to their forum, but it's well worth it if you have a 2.2 HDi

The only two other areas i can see are the leak from the botttom right of the intercooler, so I may take that off and clean it / seal it with some araldite or something,

They mostly all look like that

also the main air intake pipe seems to have some silver duck tape for about 4 inches along the bottom behind the EGR, now it could be heat shield I suppose but if it is duck tape Im wondeing if theres a leak in the pipe, would / could that cause the faults ?

If it's leaking it will cause you problems, if it's suspect it will fail at some point.....

The Map sensor is the denso one at the front above the intercooler isnt it ? if so will any 406 one do or is it specfic to the 2.2hdi as theres a scrap yard near by that has a few 2.0 hdis but no 2.2s, if there the same Im thinking of going and gettin a map sensor or two if there are any and swapping them around.

Yes that's the one - I think they're all the same, don't normally fail unless the little connecting hose breaks....

Same for the solenoid is that a specific part or is it universal ?

again if so I think a trip to the scrappy to get one or two of them mught be in order.

Some are universal, but the 2.2's got 5 of at least 2 different kinds, a 110's got 3 & a 90's got 2.....

I think checking out the vacuum system's your best bet

[memphisto]

thanks for all the help dogslife, on reading that thread about 5 times I'm thinking along the same lines.

on friday when Im off I think a good check of all the vacuum pipes and possibly blowing them out as per that thread would be a good start.

then checking the actuator which i believe is down behind the EGR valve ?

and the swirl valve which is under the airbox ? I have seen the one behind the airbox but i believe thats for heat intake ?

can these vlaves and actuator be opened up and put back together ? I only ask as im not sure whether we have a vacuum tester, and taking them apart and putting them back together after checking for rips would probably be the option we would go for if possible ?

[Doggy]

then checking the actuator which i believe is down behind the EGR valve ?

The turbo actuator? I think so....

and the swirl valve which is under the airbox ? I have seen the one behind the airbox but i believe thats for heat intake ?

The swirl actuator is coupled to a shaft that pokes out of the side of the cyl head, just beloe the acoustic cover, gearbox end.

If you remove the front part of the acoustic cover, you will see the 'air dozer' a 'Y'' piece with two buttrefly valves which let air through or bypass the intercooler. It's fairly easy to trace the pipes from the actuators back to the solenoid valves in all cases.

can these vlaves and actuator be opened up and put back together ? I only ask as im not sure whether we have a vacuum tester, and taking them apart and putting them back together after checking for rips would probably be the option we would go for if possible ?

No idea, don't think so, exboyracer seems to have done it all by leak testing & substitution


If you sign up to Service Box, http://www.public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ you can find all the necessary diagrams / descriptions / part no.s / prices - just tell them you're a small independant garage

[memphisto]

just signed up to servicebox but it says everything is chargeable ?

where did i go wrong and can you delete your account ?

[steve_earwig]

First column - free services.

[memphisto]

hi guys, right after digging alittle and re reading that thread and viewing the swirl video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Z8hqj9FjBo


mine isnt moving at all, Im reving the engine and it is just staying exactly the same place.

This therefore indicates a fault in that and or the vacuum system ?

If this is the only fault will plugging the butterfly actuator valve as suggested in the thread stop the problem ? in the short term ? or will it simply cause other problems as


and thanks for the above figured it out now so getting the diagrams.

[Doggy]

I had to change the swirl chamber actuator on mine, (the plag-nasty elbow snapped off mine), but one other guy had a split diaphragm in his recently.

Could be worse, a few years back one of the coupe guys had a problem diagnosed as needing a new FAP & additive, which cost a packet & didn't fix it, followed by a new turbo, (ditto cost & effect).

Finally turned out to be a leaky vacuum reservoir, (which is plastic box about the size of a baccy tin that lives under the servo - they cost about a fiver).

[memphisto]

ouch that would have been an expensive bill for nothing !

well Im quite positive tbh, at least ive spotted something wrong after hours trawling the web thanks to your help, Im just sick of taking it to garages who charge the earth and although I love the car with 140k on the clock and Y reg there comes a point when the cost effectiveness of keeping it on the road comes into play.

Doing it myself or with the help of others though keeps costs down and makes it more realistice to keep repairing it !