I realise you're having a nightmare with the car Womble but you're perhaps not helping yourself by starting a new topic with every symptom. I know it avoids the massive swelling thread syndrome but people have to search for your other topics instead of just reading back up the same one.
Sorry
I just thought with it being a different fault code and more specific to the electrics then it would be best to pst in electrical section. Plus, someone told me off for changing the topic of the same post as that confuses people hope I haven't p****d everyone off
Sorry guys.
Neil...
Last edited by womble171 on Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
Sorry Ian I have only just seen your reply as I didn't get a notification
Yes, I do have the use of a multimeter, although I am not an expert on using them??
Any pointers would be a great help.
And now you replied in the wrong thread! Don't sweat it dude, you certainly haven't piššed me off anyway, I'd really like to get your car running!!
For testing through the wires you need to set your multimeter on the ohms ( Ω ) scale, you'll see that with the probes not touching each other it'll say something like overload or infinity, but if you touch them together it'll be very close to zero. Most multimeters also have a sounder that'll beep when you short the probes, which is fine for finding the right terminal at the connectors but you really need to use the ohm scale if you're looking for resistance in the wires or shorts between them.
Oh s**t, I don't know which post to reply to myself now
Thanks Steve, really appreciate your help. I was having a little probe earlier. I set the multimeter to test the continuity and I got the bleeps on the fuel pressure reg and the fuel rail pressure sensor switches, didn't know about checking for ohms as well?? Any ideas what I should be lookin for?
With the ohms you're looking at all the other terminals for any that have some connection to the wire in question, they should all be open circuit but anything that makes your meter say something other than overload or infinity are suspect. Also you should measure the resistance of each wire, they should all be a few ohms above zero but you should be suspicious of any that are different.
Hi Steve and thanks although I am struggling a bit with the terminology, not you it's me, I am as thick as a whale omelette at times!
I don't know what overload or infinity should read on the display? Also, I have 6 settings on the ohm reading part of the multimeter....20m, 2m, 200k, 20k, 2k(and a little symbol) and 200 with a speaker sign. I have figured out that the 200 speaker is the one for testing continuity but as I have no instructions for the meter then I don't know what the rest are for??
womble171 wrote:I don't know what overload or infinity should read on the display?
What does it say when the leads aren't connected to anything? (Not even each other)
womble171 wrote: Also, I have 6 settings on the ohm reading part of the multimeter....20m, 2m, 200k, 20k, 2k(and a little symbol) and 200 with a speaker sign. I have figured out that the 200 speaker is the one for testing continuity but as I have no instructions for the meter then I don't know what the rest are for??
Various ranges for testing resistance, think of them as how sensitive the meter is. At 2k the meter won't read anything unless there is very little resistance, while at 20m(mega ohms) the meter is looking for any conductivity that exists at all, so if you touch the probes with the fingers of each hand the meter will display the resistance of your body - this is the range you'll need.
Hi guys.
Had a little fiddle about with the wires today and if I have checked them right then they seem to check out. Continuity seems to be the same through the loom as touching the probes (.3) doesn't appear to be any shorts on te loom and the double relay checks out??
Had another look on autodata an the p1138 code says its pressure regulator, wiring or the ECU.
Was thinkin as well I initially scanned the car with proscan, would that not have picked up the p1138 code as well as the initial PO230 code?
Dont know if I have been brave or stupid but I decided to open the ECU up, thought I had nothing to lose????
Dont know if its coincidence but to me it looks like a couple of chips look burt and they are on the same circuits as
the ones i seem to be having problems with? Number 1 is the fuel pressure regulator, and 2 is the double relay.
I can also see what looks like wet patches, could this be a problem with the ECU or have I just made things worse
by opening it???
There not wet patches that's what I first thought, water ingress would explain the problem!
Don't suppose anybody has a spare one in exchange for a loom, pressure regulator or a lift pump
If I get another ECU then will I need it coding to the car? My brother has a 2000 110hdi, could I try it in his? There seems to be plenty on eBay but I am not sure which one would be a suitable replacement?
Last edited by womble171 on Sun Jan 13, 2013 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
You might be better off buying a Paired kit:
ecu:
Bsi
and you need the key for the chip.
you can normaly pick a kit up for around 100quid on the ebay:
scrapyards might be cheaper but normaly they loose the keys or you have to go route through abin full to find a key,
hope I haven't p****d everyone off 
If they're wet patches can you dry them up with a cotton bud or something?
