Drove past this last week and oh look - it's on eBay

[rwb]

Sonia's children already fill her car, so I guess we need 3 more for mine?

OK then...
Quick dash up to Oxford I was surprised how fast the 90 is -- once you've got it off the mark. It gets a sweat on cruising at 85 though, oil at the second mark. Does 80 at 2900. Only does 50mpg though

So on to the main attraction: black with cream leather, I'd say average condition. Crack at bottom of front bumper (a deer) but I'd say better condition than mine on the outside.
Has sat nav. Display is perfect
However, I wasn't impressed with the interior: the plastics feel a bit worn. This is normal, but it's a big turn-off for me, personally. Put on a lower mileage steering wheel and a radio knob with the rubber still on it, and I probably wouldn't know the difference.

Did 30k in its first three years, then this guy had it as a company car (did as many as 40k per year) and then personally. The book has been stamped religiously and anything that has needed doing has been done -- as you'd expect from a company car. The downside is that the 12k oil change interval is a bit long, and the oil in there is very mucky. I couldn't see a cam belt, but it must have had one (he's going to check the history for us) and I suspect it's due for its second.

No evidence of clutch or flywheel so they're probably on the cards before long, but I couldn't hear anything and the clutch felt fine.

Intercooler looked brand new. Absolutely spotless. Couldn't see it in service history. Noted swirl actuator in history.

At the bottom of the EGR valve it looks like there is a brass something (thin plate) between two red rust exhaust pipes. It's unlikely to be a blanking plate given the history. Is it a gasket?

Had a steering rack following a disagreement with pot hole. Receipt notes something still not quite right. Will it come out in the wash when changing links and bushes?

Had a sunroof leak seen to.
Had an 'electrical meltdown' (had to get the keys re-coded).
Who's putting two and two together?
I don't know which happened first, and this is all the info we have.

Aux belt looks new: rough back and no wear on it. Tensioner looked well worn though. Cam belt cover looked like it hadn't been off recently.
Slight whine off the aux, not just belt-whir, tensioner or PAS pump? (Mine's been noisier for years.) Bottom pulley changed.

What is on the front of the engine to the right (as you look with the bonnet open) of the alternator? It's oily. Spreads left onto the cables that to to the top of the alternator from the right. Couldn't see how far it goes to the right, but not as far as the bell-housing.

Exhaust needs mid section and back box. Couldn't get a clear view of flexi section but I'd assume that's needed.
The flange at the back of the fap where it clamps to the mid section is very rusty. Could it just need tidying up? Otherwise is there enough length on the end of the fap to cut off the flange and weld onto it? What about at the flexi end? Could always risk putting a straight-through pipe from the flexi.


What are the risks?
* exhaust was always going to need sorting. If the FAP can be saved (likely) then this is easy. Is a straight-through feasible?
* anything residual from pot hole. Probably less irritating and more fixable than the current ABS fault.
* it might need a cam belt sooner rather than later. Estimate?
* might need a clutch and flywheel. Just have to wait and see. Estimate?
* usual stuff on any 406 -- so no additional risk.

And no more pics from me because my battery was flat

[Captain Jack]

Nice car. Looks clean. These engines are gutted on the coupe forums with Nico's pipes to remove the air doser and the egr. And with a proper remap, it's pushing 215bhp!

Shame about your phone though....... *runs away*

[Sonia406]

I spoke to Doggy just before I left to see it, he'd be happy enough helping me with the dpf technically speaking with the gizmo to delete it or what ever... Talking of which, where do you get your re-maps done Doggy?

[Captain Jack]

On his laptop just like the rest of us

[Sonia406]

On his laptop just like the rest of us

Is that what he was saying, he does the re-maps himself?

[Captain Jack]

Well he has files with remaps already done so it's a matter of flashing the file to your ecu...which incidentally is done at the same time as the fap deletion (same file).

I had my remap done by ecuedit guys and uploaded it myself as well.

[Sonia406]

To be fair I don't think I'd want to play with the ECU myself... with a diesel I would get mpg and wouldn't mind visiting someone who can do it for me...........

[jonsowman]

Here's the EGR detail, the only gasket I can see is 17, is this the one you're talking about?


If the DMF isn't chirping then it's probably fine, and even if it does, you can leave it for a long time before it's replaced. Clutch kit is about £100 and OE DMFs about £330 last time I checked. Plus some hours labour. Cam belt kits are only about £100, but obviously it's quite a bit of labour.

Thing to the right of the alternator - fuel pump? Mine whines slightly, perhaps this is the cause of the whine on that car too? I think it wants the seals on the reg replaced.

[oldskoolskool]

What is on the front of the engine to the right (as you look with the bonnet open) of the alternator? It's oily. Spreads left onto the cables that to to the top of the alternator from the right. Couldn't see how far it goes to the right, but not as far as the bell-housing.

could it be oil that has seeped out of the airdossers? old ones tend to do this and cover the engine in dirty oil (part 70 in the picture below), mine was atrocious when I got it.



if your going to de-fap the car then these are no longer required and could be replaced with the now infamous 'nicowico pipes'

[scotty73]

To be fair I don't think I'd want to play with the ECU myself... with a diesel I would get mpg and wouldn't mind visiting someone who can do it for me...........

It's easy... if you can find the right file for the car and don't have an awkward ecu like mine.... Got there in the end though and doggy will tell you 2.2 files are easier to come by.

[rwb]

Ta Jon, it's 17.

More than likely the doser OSK. I can't remember the details on these. For the performance minded coupes it's an easy decision to remove. For more mundane applications is there a case for keeping them?

[jonsowman]

Once the car is de-FAP'ed the dosers aren't used*. You can replace them with the straight through Nico pipes and get rid of a load of boost pipework.

The car doesn't need to be de-EGR'ed for Nico pipes to be fitted.

I'm seriously considering doing this as I'm convinced mine's got a slight boost leak, and fitting them reduces the amount of pipework I'm trying to diagnose. Might be the dosers themselves in fact.

* Irrelevant but related: neither is the non-intercooled air intake for the engine (controlled by an EV), this is only used to raise intake air temperature during FAP regen to raise exhaust gas temps.

[oldskoolskool]

As far as I know the airdosser just select one of the two intake air routes on the engine, under normal conditions the air is routed through the inter-cooler, but when the car is trying to re-generate the fap (DPF) the air is routed through the heat exchanger instead. so if the car is to be de-fapped with the appropriate file then the air dossers will never be used.

Only point to think about is I don't think both of the nicowico pipes fit on the saloon, the one that replaces the airdossers is fine, but I'm not sure about the straight pipe, will check on the coupe forum as someone has done this to a saloon on there.

[Sonia406]

As far as I know the airdosser just select one of the two intake air routes on the engine, under normal conditions the air is routed through the inter-cooler, but when the car is trying to re-generate the fap (DPF) the air is routed through the heat exchanger instead. so if the car is to be de-fapped with the appropriate file then the air dossers will never be used.

Only point to think about is I don't think both of the nicowico pipes fit on the saloon, the one that replaces the airdossers is fine, but I'm not sure about the straight pipe, will check on the coupe forum as someone has done this to a saloon on there.

Most appreciated.......

[Doggy]

So, did you buy it Sonia?

The exhaust just looks like the middle pipe's rotted away, but I've a nasty suspicion the bolts holding the cat / fap assembly together aren't going to give up without a fight. Get 4 M8 x 40 stainless set screws, nuts + washers first.

Wouldn't have thought oil seeping from the air doser would reach as far over as the alternator, maybe an (old) spill from changing the fuel filter? I had a leaky filter bowl and it would up killing the alternator. Besides, oil is usually much more in evidence at the base of the intercooler than the air doser - if the i/c's clean the doser's likely to be similar.
- BTW you can just pull off the front part of the acoustic hood to check.

There's as many answers to the egr + air doser delete or not argument as there are owners. I still have both - (even worse I've got all the bits to replace them but haven't taken the plunge).

The air doser on a 2.2 is used to select the route the air takes from the turbo to engine. Under normal conditions, it goes as you would expect throught the intercooler, the alternative path is through a water heated exchanger, intended to raise the air temp to asist in getting the exhaust temp high enough to burn off the soot in the FAP during a regen. (It also puts on the glow plugs, HRW and a few other bits to load the engine, as well as injecting fuel on the exhaust stroke to start a horizontal chimney fire).
So with a defap, you don't need it - except it also helps warm the engine up from cold, (much like the egr, which also help heat your heater matrix).