2.2 HDI Questions

[gumby6371]

I ran another global test with Planet yesterday and got the same intermitant turbo pressure too high and additive pump faults so my questions are;

Has anyone got a diagram of the turbo pipework so I can track down any leaks or would a sticky actuator/dirty MAF sensor cause this fault?

As I'm running the generic 180 map is it likely the additive pump fault is hardware related or can I just reset the counter/additive level with planet?
If its a planet thing can anyone provide a walkthru as I'm a complete novice?

Also I noticed this morning that the boot light is on permanantly so any ideas where the boot switch is located? Presumably the boot wouldn't set off the doors open warning?

Any info gratefully recieved

Gareth

[jonsowman]

Turbo overboost is almost always due to a leak in the vac system rather than the turbo boost pipe work. The ECU increases boost by reducing vacuum to the VNT mechanism, hence a vac leak causing overboost.

It's quite hard to hunt these down, but typical suspects are the swirl diaphragm & the swirl/turbo electrovalves.

If it's de-FAPed you shouldn't be getting any additive faults at all, but if you do, just ignore them.

Not sure on the boot lid switch, sorry, I'm sure someone else will know.

[gumby6371]

Thanks Jon,

So my next question is where are the swirl diaphragm & the swirl/turbo electrovalves located? prferrably in nice simple terms that a novice spanner twirler can understand

[jonsowman]

OK so, firstly check that the swirl flaps are working properly. See this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Z8hqj9FjBo. The rod should move towards you on acceleration at 2100rpm, and move back on deceleration at 1900rpm. Since it's an intermittent fault, I'm pretty sure this will look like it's working, but it's a good first start.

To make certain that the swirl actuator is OK, pull the airbox off and underneath it, find the EV that controls the swirl actuator. With the engine off, remove the vac pipe from the EV to the actuator, and suck on the end of it. The rod should move backwards and remain there, if it creeps gradually forward then it's got a slight leak. If so, this is almost certainly the cause of your overboost fault. The actuator is about £25 from a Pug dealer but is a right git to change!

Start with this, since I reckon it's the most likely suspect.

If the swirl actuator is OK, then the next likely culprits are the swirl EV and the turbo EV. The swirl EV is the one under the airbox (not the one attached to the back of the airbox!). The turbo EV is the left most of the three EVs on the bulkhead (as you're standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay).

Testing these is a faff, basically. Just note that the three EVs on the bulkhead are identical, but the two on/under the airbox are different. Try the swirl flap stuff first and then we'll see where to go next Good luck!

[gumby6371]

Well thats just answered the question, 'what am I doing on Saturday morning?'

Thanks again Jon

[Sonia406]

Turbo overboost is almost always due to a leak in the vac system rather than the turbo boost pipe work. The ECU increases boost by reducing vacuum to the VNT mechanism, hence a vac leak causing overboost.

It's quite hard to hunt these down, but typical suspects are the swirl diaphragm & the swirl/turbo electrovalves.

If it's de-FAPed you shouldn't be getting any additive faults at all, but if you do, just ignore them.

Not sure on the boot lid switch, sorry, I'm sure someone else will know.

Just to butt in with a question for you Gareth. On a cold engine, coming to a stop do you completely lose your rev range, I'm talking only about 500rpm?
I've been told I have a vac leak but didn't see any sort of turbo boost faults on PP.........

[jonsowman]

Does it do this even when coming to a stop in neutral? It should maintain 900rpm until just before you stop, then drop to 750rpm

[Sonia406]

Does it do this even when coming to a stop in neutral? It should maintain 900rpm until just before you stop, then drop to 750rpm

Yep...... It feels like it's about to stall and even take off, *COUGH* I mean, pulling away you have to have just the right acceleration or it WILL stall...

Tell you what I will do in the morning tomorrow, do a video to film it coming to a stop so you can see the rev range just completely drop....
Only really happens when cold though... and especially straight after start up....

So if mine was a vac leak - surely it would be there all the time?

Stupid car!