OK I found my Haynes (HOORAY!!!) and in conjunction with the EPC I'm thinking this is what I need to do:
1) Take the "upper" timing belt cover off from under the bonnet
2) Jack the front drivers side up
3) Remove the splash guard, being careful about Lake Coolant (lol!).
3a) Drain the radiator, unplug, and yank out (provided I've bought a replacement by this time)
4) Take the wheel off
5) Take the plastic wheelarch liner off
6) Turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise a bit at a time using a socket on the bolt in the middle of it, until I can get a drill bit through some small hole in the camshaft gear and into the head
7) Find some way of slackening off the auxiliary belt tensioner (which may be self-tensioning according to Haynes)

Remove the auxiliary belt
9) Bribe a mate to jump in and keep pressure on the brake with it in 5th gear while I unbolt the crankshaft pulley presumably using the bolt the middle of it
10) Unbolt some "lower" timing belt cover?
11) Try to take a photo upwards so I know where the belt goes later
12) Praying the crankshaft doesn't turn cos I can't see any way to lock it, pull the belt off what I hope is number 3 in picture D8F/IF05A25A.TIF in the EPC
13) Simply pull the "tension roller" off the "screw column" (EPC lingo) and put a new one on?
14) Push a new belt on and do the reverse to get the car back together again
There's 2 glaring omissions I can see:
1) How do you adjust a tensioner which just appears to be a pulley screwed into a solid lump of metal?
2) I can't see the water pump in any of these diagrams! Waaaa!
To be honest it doesn't look that bad so far. I'm just concerned about the fact I'm still largely in the dark about what the side and underneath of the engine look like and if I'm going to have any damn room to get at the bolts securing these timing belt covers (are there really 3 of them?)
Actually here's another question - how do you jack up the front? According to Haynes you need to stick the axle stands at the jacking points, which seems like a nice way to pierce holes in the bottom of the car, and I've tried to jack it up with a trolly jack where they said (which gives you about an inch of travel on the long end of the bar), but the jack went up, the bit of metal the jack was pushing went up but the bits of metal around it didn't, neither did the car :/
If/when I do this, I'll take lots of pictures and shove 'em here like I've half done with the trip computer mod (took pictures but ain't edited/resized/documented/uploaded yet)