1985 305

[steve_earwig]

A good demonstration of why it's good to keep your scuttle clear of leaves etc.

Very nice work Frank, keep 'em coming!

[FarmerPug]

That bottom corner of the front wings - is (was) there a mounting point for the front bumper which suffers corrosion?

Excellent progress though please keep it coming

Thats where the bumper mounts into place, i didnt even need to undo the bolts that hold these corner mounts in place but luckily the blue 305 still has intact wings which can be used for reference. The might be repairable but there are used ones on ebay for £70.

[FarmerPug]

A bit more disassembly has been done, the interior is nearly completely removed:

Ive discovered an interesting feature on the passenger side footwell, it looks like its drove over something:



This is the ventilation box, what is quite interesting about this is that the air direction controls are completely controlled by the vacuum system


The doors came off, the front ones are not too bad, the back ones are rusty on their lower edge:





I still can't figure out how to remove the glass from these back doors though.

[OllieNZ]

I still can't figure out how to remove the glass from these back doors though.

All the rear vents I've changed typically need the channel that the aft end of the door glass runs in to be removed if you're lucky there will be 2 bolts inside the door and a screw at the top, if you're unlucky it may be riveted or even spot welded

[Welly]

Nice progress Frank, that footwell has had quite a crumple! are you planning to try to straighten that somehow?

I remember the door glass on my 309 was just gripped in a metal channel at the bottom with some rubber strip I think (friction fitted) no real 'fixings' to speak of.

[steve_earwig]

I'm guessing it's a bit more complicated that that. Usually you have to remove the lifter and rotate the glass to get it out.

Maybe the glass can stay, cover it in newspaper so it doesn't get too much oversparay. Unless the bottoms need welding of course, then it'd be silly.

[OllieNZ]

I'm guessing it's a bit more complicated that that. Usually you have to remove the lifter and rotate the glass to get it out.

Maybe the glass can stay, cover it in newspaper so it doesn't get too much oversparay. Unless the bottoms need welding of course, then it'd be silly.

My bad. I thought he was referring to the vent didn't see the glass in the door.
Getting the winding glass out will depend on the mech, alot of older cars need the mech unbolted partially or sometimes completely to free the runners from the track on the bottom of the glass, rears tend to be a bit trickier than fronts and it will most likely still need the metal track that holds the vent in removed to get the glass out of the hole also removing all the rubbers/trims around the window is a must.

[FarmerPug]

The doors are fully stripped bar the rear windows, as you say it does sit into a metal channel with rubber insulating the glass from the metal, perhaps its just friction holding it on now if the channel was off the window would slip out nicely.
The rest of the doors are generally very easy to remove, the outer seal which also contains the stainless steel shiny strip of metal is a bit awkward it clips down over plastic tabs but other than that nothing has been difficult to speak of, i havent even come across a single stubborn rusty bolt yet.

As for the crease in the passenger footwell there is a special tool which can fix it quite quickly its called a sledge hammer.

[FarmerPug]

A nice 305 for someone that may be interested:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281416993476? ... EBIDX%3AIT

I think at the moment i have enough of them, although rear tail lights are £70 each and this has a pair of good ones...

[OllieNZ]

You should be able to pull all the rubbers out, it takes quite a bit of force and I wouldn't be surprised if you still need to take the channel out to get the window out of the hole.

[FarmerPug]

One wing came off, it also uses an unusual mix of undersell and a substance as strong as tiger seal to bond parts of it to the body, the bolts come off easy enough the substance used to glue it is a proper pain to deal with:

But then i suppose its better than a welded on wing?

I got the back windy window out, the bottom clamp arrangement on the bottom of the window needed spread out with 4 screwdrivers it then lifted off the glass easily, the window then came out handily:



Here is a diagram from service box v1:


Unfortunatley the 1/4 bit of the window is much more difficult and i don't seem to be able to get the fecker out, i tried to get the stainless steel trim off, removed 3 of the clips lifted it up and it started to buckle, i then lost the head and ripped it off so one of them needs to be sourced. Bugger.

The 1/4 window is still stuck in place, myself and my dad spent a good half hour trying to get the window out, i think it needs them suction devices window fitters use.


So i need to get a replacement stainless steel strip, which is part number 9311 25, although given the rarity of the 305 its a rear drivers side door:

[OllieNZ]

Your a brave man sticking screwdrivers between the glass and the channel [emoji33] if you'd taken off the outer trim the glass should have come out with the channel on it. Have you tried soaking the vent(1/4 window) rubbers with soapy water, or as we always used glass cleaner. A set of suckers is a good idea, I've replaced alot of broken ones but not had to remove many intact ones but I should imagine given the age of the vehicle the rubbers are bloomin stiff and a bit stuck.

[FarmerPug]

The screwdrivers are only wedged in and turned 90 degrees to spread the bracket slightly i think the glass can take that, its fairly strong up to the point when it becomes thousands of small pieces.
The outer stainless steel seal thingy needs the window to be removed first in order to access the clips that hold it in place, so with both doors I've bought a bottle of washing up liquid and put as much of the stuff round the rubber edge of the windows and allowed them to sit overnight, hopefully washing up liquid works like a wd40 for rubber parts.

The other stuff i did yesterday was remove the actual rear 1/4 windows the ones that are found to the sides of the boot in an estate, the old school window sealing technique was most appreciated here, the only tools needed was a chisel and some duct tape. The chisel was a new one with the cover over the pointy end (that bit that usually gets thrown away) which turned out to be the perfect tool for tucking the inner part of the rubber seal in behind the lip of the window edge, and the duct tape prevents the window falling on the ground when pushing it from inside the car.
The boot window also came out in the same way, with the windscreen being the only one left to do, with the boot window out it was then possible to see the extent of the rust causing the leaks:

(the jack on the back of the car had to be used, with no parts up in the front sitting in the back of the car to remove the windows created a see saw effect )

[FarmerPug]

Having an alfa romeo branded sunroof i was a bit worried that the roof on the 305 would have turned into iron oxide but it was actually ok:


the hole actually seems to have been cut quite tidily:


With the headlining out the roof bars can also be accessed they came off easily enough, with the state these rubber gaskets were in its surprising the roof didnt leak more:



Here is the roof without the headlining, it has a bit of sound insulation, all seems in good nick



The windscreen is also out, the frame is in good condition so thankfully no welding required around that:




There are a few odd bits to remove yet nothing that an hour couldn't sort out then the fuel tank and rear axle should leave the car fully stripped.

[FarmerPug]

The parts diagrams are finished for the 305 and available from here:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... sp=sharing