Heating and AC Just stopped

[Gazaka]

Hi,

I am new here and a complete and utter novice to all of this. Recently acquired a (53 reg) 406 2.0 Hdi Sedan from my dad, needed a few jobs doing on it. New timing belt, alternator and driving side switch for the electric windows.

Everything else was working fine and dandy apart from being stood on my dads drive for a few months. Had a free healthcheck and nothing came back with regards to tyres, suspension, brakes etc.

I replaced the switch on the drivers side for the electric windows and no sooner had I done that, my heating and AC completely died. I am trying to locate a wiring diagram for the fuse box to see whether it is just a blown fuse. Like I said, it was all working fine until after I replaced the switch for the windows. Whether it is just coincidence it just happened to die on me, I am not sure. I have the haynes manual for the car... but the fusebox layout doesn't match the one in the car.

I have the first 4 of the VIN - 8163

Any pointers would be greatly helpful. I am a complete novice so please go easy on me

Edit: had to remove link due to google drive account being deleted

[steve_earwig]

Hi there, welcome

These are the diagrams from the handbook:










They're not wonderful but much better than the joke that is Haynes.

Looking at the diagrams it would appear that the fuse also does the starter, so it probably isn't that. On earlier cars there used to be a problem with the "ignition" switch but I'm not sure of that happens to later cars (wiggle the key about).

[GingerMagic]

Hi Gazaka, welcome.

For some bizarre reasons on some Peugeot the fusebox is fitted upside down....??

Also, as you have a D9 model, you may have a dodgy resistor which can be found kinda behind the centre console towards the passenger footwell - if you remove the carpet under the glove box ( 3 silly pull type fixings ) you should see a green connector - this is the resistor for the blower. Try wiggling these wires when the engine is running and the blower set to full blast, the blower only works with the engine running by the way...

There are 2 relays in the engine bay fuse box ( the lid with the stripes ) on my donor car ( 2004 ) but not on my current steed ( 2002 ) so not sure if you will have them - these are engine running relays that tell when the engine is, er, running..

[Gazaka]

Thanks for the pics steve! Really appreciate it

They're not wonderful but much better than the joke that is Haynes.

I laughed at that, so true!

Yeah, I was reading about the ignition on another thread somewhere in the nether regions. The ignition barrel feels really loose (which I hadn't noticed before) and I have tried to wiggle up, down, left, right, A, B and start; no joy. I am looking at possibly getting out the multimeter and checking for live feed. Complete novice to the whole electrics stuff, so I am compiling information and called round to a friend tomorrow. I can put up without the heater and air con for the time being despite the cold weather but going to be a pain for demisting when I need too haha

@GingerMagic Thanks! Will give these a look at as well tomorrow. The more information I can get about it the better. So far I have gleemed more info from this site than any other place. I rarely post online... so it is nice to see some helpful people. Thank you.

[Gazaka]

Okay, bit of an update. We have multimeter tested and got power going from the ignition to the wires underneath the passenger side. Checked that the heater blower was working by hooking up direct to the battery. It is fine. Assembled everything again and did some more tests on the wires. Whilst moving some wires the blower just started up which made us jump a bit... then it stopped. We have moved the wires again and its not doing anything now

I can see what looks like a heater resister... seems the wires go into that. Going to try bypass to see if so... how the heck do I remove it if so?

Any other suggestions on what to check?

[GingerMagic]

The resistor is held in by a 6mm bolt, and it slides down from its slot - undo the wires first for convenience.
These are a common fault, a new one from internet is about £20.

[Gazaka]

The resistor is held in by a 6mm bolt, and it slides down from its slot - undo the wires first for convenience.
These are a common fault, a new one from internet is about £20.

Thanks. Yeh managed to get access to it not as bad as I originally thought.

Edit inbound: The heat resistor was burnt at the power connector. Checked to see if it still works... and turns out it still does. Cleaned both connector in/out (the larger green one of the two; had melted the plastic connector in). Poked round with it to clean out and seems to be working okay. My concern is the reason why and I am thinking due to the weather being cold and damp... I might have overburdened the resistor. Full blower and demister on (for some reason the air coming through the vents is really weak and almost none existent; otherwise I'd have just set to a lower setting).

I had ordered a new resistor either way. I have phoned up regarding the cabling and connectors into this part and been quoted a stupid price. Ideally I'd want to get a new cable as well from the power to the resistor. All in all... temp fix until either it dies again or got the part and cabling to replace entirely. Whether I am stupid to hook it back up or not... not sure.