Captain Jack wrote:My clutch switch seems fine. What isn't fine is the car (or rather PP2000) always says that I am in neutral, when I can be in any gear....
I think that feature only works on the automatic gearbox. But not sure.
The biggest issue is the split second turbo lag when going up a gear "briskly". And it's not a huge issue anyway since it happens maybe once out of 10 times.
MAF or vacuum leak.. MAF seems like the easiest but most expensive thing to change but it is over 9 years old now, so likely not at its best.
The biggest issue is the split second turbo lag when going up a gear "briskly". And it's not a huge issue anyway since it happens maybe once out of 10 times.
MAF or vacuum leak.. MAF seems like the easiest but most expensive thing to change but it is over 9 years old now, so likely not at its best.
buy second hand from a scrapyard. My money is still on the clutch switch. Can also be bought second hand.
Dont believe the turbolag is MAF related. I must be a bad connection in a sensor. It will most likely get worse over time, and by that easier to locate.
I still put my money on the clutch switch
Captain Jack wrote:I am still very dubious about the clutch switch. It's either on or off. PP knows when the clutch pedal is down or up - surely it can't be that.
thats what i thought. But just think how many times you have pressed the clutch down. Just saying.
Username Removed wrote:At this point in the cars life, it would be a prudent choice to replace the MAF regardless of if you are having issues or not. Even on a car with an old (albeit functional) MAF, you'd be surprised how much more spritely if feels after replacement. As I said earlier (and have evidence to support it), the exact symptoms you are describing can and probably will be MAF related.
Username Removed wrote:At this point in the cars life, it would be a prudent choice to replace the MAF regardless of if you are having issues or not. Even on a car with an old (albeit functional) MAF, you'd be surprised how much more spritely if feels after replacement. As I said earlier (and have evidence to support it), the exact symptoms you are describing can and probably will be MAF related.
If it aint broke dont fix it.
I used to think that too, but the improvement you get swapping a new MAF for a tired but functional one more that makes up for the cost of doing so.
Having said that I would also recommend hanging on for a decent discount if you can afford to wait. Got 30% off my last one IIRC
2002 HDi 2.2 Exec Estate, (2008-12) (wonderful)
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate (2012-19) (also a gem)
2009 Citroen C5 2.0 HDi VTR+ Estate (godawful heap)
2008 BMW E91 330i touring (great fun - murdered by a reversing SUV)
2007 BMW E91 325i touring (slower smoother quieter)
The price difference between them on fleaBay is quite marked. Some are 40-odd quid, some around 80, some well over 100. I am guess the £40 mark ones are Chinese ones and not worth the money whereas £80 ones are the real deal?
Captain Jack wrote:The price difference between them on fleaBay is quite marked. Some are 40-odd quid, some around 80, some well over 100. I am guess the £40 mark ones are Chinese ones and not worth the money whereas £80 ones are the real deal?
what ever you decide to do. Forget all about the cheap Chinese ones.
I've got a cheap chinese one, works really well,,,,,, on the shelf in the garage.
But I had to buy a proper one to get the car going right.
I reckon if you had 6 genuine MAFs you would have 6 different driving characteristics. Is that like doctors?
re. the clutch switch, one thing I noticed was that when disconnected the RPM would drop and recover when stopping and going into neutral.
I can't say I noticed it being more or less 'jolty'. But then mine is far from smooth on a good day.
Is it 1920LK? (1920HH for 2.0 HDi)
Neither Euro nor GSF seem to have one, and they're hard to find on eBay.
Cheapest I could see is £80 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171376889437