I did actually put a new thermostat in I got from a motorfactor. It was slightly different (it had a little extra bit on the end) but I was assured that it was the right one. Do you reckon it's wrong then?
Cheers,
Rob
Engine swap!
Moderator: Moderators
Well....although the fans work they definately aren't working properly. Basically thye come on for a bit at 70C (not sure why) and then turn off (didnt test this today as had already driven but know this is what they do as they went off a few times while I have been checking stuff so i'm not sure if both come on or just one and what speed). I then failed to make them turn on by letting the car idle even though temp slowly creeped up to about 100-105C (I turned off! I Never let it stay this high as usually traffic starts moving and the car cools down). Now what could be causing this? I'm guessing Relays or the temp sensor? The fuses are fine and the fans work as they do come on at 70C and I have had them come on at 108C once when it got that hot. Also the fan's aren't always on with aircon as I understand they should be?
Hopefully someone has an idea what this is as it annoys me that everytime I get stuck in traffic, i'm left watching the temp gauge preying the traffic moves before it gets too hot (hasn't gone above 110 so not boiling over yet lol! I have a good coolant mix so should be looking at a quite high boiling point once pressurised but still it's not a nice thought considering the last engine died of a headgasket problem!
Rather than try and squeeze my hand down behind radiator/condensor/intercooler could i not remove the bumper to get decent access? Cannot be arsed with taking it all out again!!!!
Oh and the Vacuum pump only had one olt holding it on. The other 2 had worked loose and become lossed to the road so 2 new pumps and the brakes now work as they should. They definately need bleeding though!!!!!!
Hopefully someone has an idea what this is as it annoys me that everytime I get stuck in traffic, i'm left watching the temp gauge preying the traffic moves before it gets too hot (hasn't gone above 110 so not boiling over yet lol! I have a good coolant mix so should be looking at a quite high boiling point once pressurised but still it's not a nice thought considering the last engine died of a headgasket problem!
Rather than try and squeeze my hand down behind radiator/condensor/intercooler could i not remove the bumper to get decent access? Cannot be arsed with taking it all out again!!!!
Oh and the Vacuum pump only had one olt holding it on. The other 2 had worked loose and become lossed to the road so 2 new pumps and the brakes now work as they should. They definately need bleeding though!!!!!!
Ok I think I have my fan problems on the verge of being tracked down through the use of this "how they work" guide http://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/ws ... fanop1.htm (admittedly for 306 but same apart from fuses)
Basically I only have my right fan (left looking from the front) working at the moment and it comes on at either 107C or if I unplug the temp sensor causing open loop and it comes on fast speed. This makes sense as when it turns on as fast spped it has it's own power source and does not operate in series like it does at low speeds.
Nothing happens when the temp is at 97C or when air con is on and this is when it should work at half speed. When it works at half speed it is powered by the left hand relay.
Because it doesnt work on low speed at all and only the right hand fan engages at high speed I deduce that it's the left hand relay causing the problems or wiring on the route to that relay.
I'm guessing even if the left motor was shagged, it would still complete a circuit ruling out motor failure or the changeover failure. The only other thing it could be is that the left motor isn't earthing through the right motor as it should meaning the circuit isn't completed.
i'm going to swap the left and right relays over now as if it is teh left relay faulty, the fans should work low speed if I swap them over!
Wish me luck!
Basically I only have my right fan (left looking from the front) working at the moment and it comes on at either 107C or if I unplug the temp sensor causing open loop and it comes on fast speed. This makes sense as when it turns on as fast spped it has it's own power source and does not operate in series like it does at low speeds.
Nothing happens when the temp is at 97C or when air con is on and this is when it should work at half speed. When it works at half speed it is powered by the left hand relay.
Because it doesnt work on low speed at all and only the right hand fan engages at high speed I deduce that it's the left hand relay causing the problems or wiring on the route to that relay.
I'm guessing even if the left motor was shagged, it would still complete a circuit ruling out motor failure or the changeover failure. The only other thing it could be is that the left motor isn't earthing through the right motor as it should meaning the circuit isn't completed.
i'm going to swap the left and right relays over now as if it is teh left relay faulty, the fans should work low speed if I swap them over!
Wish me luck!
Ok well it seems like a tight squeeze. Can I get access by taking the bumper off? Also how is the air con condensor held in place? I can sway the rad and the intercooler forward but the compressor doesn't want to budge. I will probably end up moving the rad right forward, removing the intercooler and then trying to sway the condensor forward in the now availiable space so I can get my hands on the relay. Lets hope the relays come out easy hehe. Some times they can be buggers lol.
I deally I would like to take the bumper and slam panel off though. I hate working in cramped spaces!
I deally I would like to take the bumper and slam panel off though. I hate working in cramped spaces!
well relay was stuffed!
Peugeot can't get one till tuesday and no motorfactors have one. I have swapped the relays over now and even in traffic, the temp is a steady 87C - Happy days! Only problem is until I get the new relay, I only have one fan come on with fast speed. Bring on the new relay!!!!
I have one Citreon garage I'm going to phone in a minute but if they don't have one, it shouldn't be a problem waiting till tuesday. How often does the fan come on at the high speed anyway?!
Peugeot can't get one till tuesday and no motorfactors have one. I have swapped the relays over now and even in traffic, the temp is a steady 87C - Happy days! Only problem is until I get the new relay, I only have one fan come on with fast speed. Bring on the new relay!!!!
I have one Citreon garage I'm going to phone in a minute but if they don't have one, it shouldn't be a problem waiting till tuesday. How often does the fan come on at the high speed anyway?!
Well after over 900 miles, all is still well....or so I thought until driving back from cardiff yesterday the battery light appeared on the dash....MMmmmh! Pull over and every thing looks ok. The spring tensioner bearing was wobbling about and making a bit of noise(has done since I had the car! On the to do list 
) so I at first thought maybe the belt's slipping. Touched the pulley and it's definately spinning. Ok... Only got 50 miles to go so hopefully the battery will last so I drove it. Got home ok. Got the multi meter out. 12.25 volts with the engine off so in need of charging and...11.8 with engine on! The alternator is providing zero assistance! The cars running off the battery. Today I started the car and ran it while looking for anything peculiar nothing so turn the car off. Check and the voltage is 11.85 so getting pretty darn low now! Start car (turns over slowly but starts) and the car is 8.4 volts when running and this figure was slowly decreasing. I have checked the big wiring to the alternator and it all connections with the alternator and the starter motor are good so the charging circuit seems ok. I also tested the voltage with the engine off from the positive terminal on the alternator and the alternator body and get the same result as when testing the battery with the engine off so the cirsuit appears ok.... So new alternator it is!!! I'm also trying to get a new alternator bracket with the tensioners still on thrown in for for little dosh. Been quoted £25 delivered from one place which is reasonable so if he replies soon will do it through him. There are also a few other people locally i'm waiting to hear back from.
Hopefully this will sort everything!
Has anyone ever heard of an alternator just dying like this though? I have had them go gradually (so charge at about 12.5V - 13V) but never just cease to work! I did drop it though when refitting so I was quite surprised when I started the car and it worked!!!!
) so I at first thought maybe the belt's slipping. Touched the pulley and it's definately spinning. Ok... Only got 50 miles to go so hopefully the battery will last so I drove it. Got home ok. Got the multi meter out. 12.25 volts with the engine off so in need of charging and...11.8 with engine on! The alternator is providing zero assistance! The cars running off the battery. Today I started the car and ran it while looking for anything peculiar nothing so turn the car off. Check and the voltage is 11.85 so getting pretty darn low now! Start car (turns over slowly but starts) and the car is 8.4 volts when running and this figure was slowly decreasing. I have checked the big wiring to the alternator and it all connections with the alternator and the starter motor are good so the charging circuit seems ok. I also tested the voltage with the engine off from the positive terminal on the alternator and the alternator body and get the same result as when testing the battery with the engine off so the cirsuit appears ok.... So new alternator it is!!! I'm also trying to get a new alternator bracket with the tensioners still on thrown in for for little dosh. Been quoted £25 delivered from one place which is reasonable so if he replies soon will do it through him. There are also a few other people locally i'm waiting to hear back from. Hopefully this will sort everything!
Has anyone ever heard of an alternator just dying like this though? I have had them go gradually (so charge at about 12.5V - 13V) but never just cease to work! I did drop it though when refitting so I was quite surprised when I started the car and it worked!!!!
New alternator fitted and everything is well. Only problem is my dodgy brakes are back! Basically did the vacuum pump test (pumped brakes with engine off till they got firm. Started the engine and the pedal gives after a few seconds as it should) but if I pump the brakes they get stiff at idle. If I rev they go really slack as in I can put the pedal to the floor. When driving if I try to stop from around 20mph + As soon as I touch the brake sthe car will start to slow but I can get my foot to the floor! I have to double pump to get teh car to stop.
I don't reckon this is the vac pump because surely all that does it stops the pedal from going stiff right? If I disconnect the pipe for the vac pump the brakes are just stiff all the time and can be pumped really firm. Why is my pedal bottoming out but not stopping teh car? Makes no sense!!!!
Any ideas?
I don't reckon this is the vac pump because surely all that does it stops the pedal from going stiff right? If I disconnect the pipe for the vac pump the brakes are just stiff all the time and can be pumped really firm. Why is my pedal bottoming out but not stopping teh car? Makes no sense!!!!
Any ideas?
I think it has somethign to do with the rear brakes. The brakes were working well before my alternator went - while I was waiting for a jump start yesterday, I decided to have a look to see if I could adjust the handbrake. Wiggled the cable about a bit and it seemed ok so didn't bother going must further. No I reckon that somethign on the rear brakes is knackered (Drum brakes FYI). I'm guessing brake cylinder or poorly adjusted shoes?
If it's not that the only other thing I can think of is master cylinder. I think I will take the drums off over the weekend and check for fluid ect. I will also check the condition and adjustment of the shoes.
I have been reading on pug306.net and it apears that alot of people get dodgy brakes like mine from a knackered brake cylinder or badly adjusted shoes. i find it quite surprising that the rear brakes would have such an effect over pedal travel!!!!
If it's not that the only other thing I can think of is master cylinder. I think I will take the drums off over the weekend and check for fluid ect. I will also check the condition and adjustment of the shoes.
I have been reading on pug306.net and it apears that alot of people get dodgy brakes like mine from a knackered brake cylinder or badly adjusted shoes. i find it quite surprising that the rear brakes would have such an effect over pedal travel!!!!