supafrisk wrote:the throttle potentiometer, I'm just wondering if this is failing, if so a pic of the offending part would be nice so I know what to look for and what it should look like, pretty please with sugar on?
Can't do a picture, but if you follow the accelerator cable round to the throttle body, then look on the opposite side of the throttle body, you may well see see a square thing with a wire attached. about 1" x 1" x 1/4" with rounded corners, possibly yellow. That'll be the throttle pot.
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
Supa, you see that bit to the left of the ABS module behind the battery - that's the throttle pot. It has a cable directly to the throttle pedal. I've got an invoice from a dealer 3 years ago for £47.00 plus labour when my previous owner had it changed.
It has since played up on me a few times and gives that 'dead' feeling but I also got sticking revs too i.e. 2000 rpm idle etc etc.
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
hi supa , you may want to look at the inter cooler and turbo pipes an make sure there is no splits or holes.
it mabie a split in a pipe and when the engine starts moving around it somtimes seals shut.
i had to replace a intercooler pipe that had a split and my d8 hdi 110 was slower than my gran walking up a steep hill.
d9 hdi 90 rapier estate
"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.
"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.
HDi turbos don't fail - they don't get hot enough for starters!
The lack of turbo is a symptom of limp mode. When the ECU detects a fault it goes into full limp mode to protect the engine, then it slowly 'allows' stuff to recover as it completes it's checks. I've had this on mine - you think the cars dead and then it slowly recovers back to normal again.
I would be looking into a Throttle Pot, the Vac lines, Vac pump (cheap), and the obvious leaky intercooler/pipes etc.
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
How long before the new one has the same problem???
All you have done is fixed the bit that went wrong and not the bit that has been wrong for so long... I'm talking about the Turbo! ! The problem you are having is caused by the thrust collar / plate seal facing... it's a small metal ring that stops oil getting into the compressor side of the turbo.. your's is worn and so oil seeps past it... so what can you do... well have it serviced and replaced with a staggered gap version or a 4 piece dynamic carbon seal kit... Personally I'd go for the 4 piece dynamic carbon seal kit! Much, Much superior! ! !
Yes, it will cost you a pretty penny for the work to be done and for the turbo to be swapped.... unless you know someone who can recondition a turbo for you and then just pay your garage chum to swap them over for you?
Niz406
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"Some Say he can fart fire, whilst others say he can urinate rocket fuel.... all we know is he's called... The Niz"
Erm, just a work of caution - a motor factors' air flow meter is not allways as good as a OE one from the stealers. It should be Bosch I think, if it's in a Pug/Citroen box then ok but worth checking. I know VAG cars get through MAF's like hot cakes but not normally HDi's for some reason might also be worth checking that the wiring to the MAF plug is intact too!
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work