Clutch / Brake Fluid

[mjb]

One side note about the crankshaft pulley nuts.....there is a method I use that is not conventional and anyone using this method does so at their own risk....

Get the correct socket and a T bar, fit the socket onto the nut with the T bar resting against the driveshaft, make sure you are in neutral then turn the ignition key and allow the T bar to take the load against the driveshaft, this will shock the nut free,

not as unconventional as you might think - I seem to recall someone mentioning a similar method shortly after i'd given up on the job having practically lifted the car off its axle stands using a 2 foot breakers bar and giving myself a right backache in the process . They recommended using the floor instead though. Now I can see the advantage of not ripping your suspension to pieces (or however else these peugeots would retaliate!) but it did conjure up images of that Simpsons episode where Homer's driving through New York with a clamped wheel...

I won't be doing a cambelt for a while though. No chance I'm going to be able to do it on the V6 without getting a crane and lifting the engine out. I thought space was short on the tubby, but this thing takes the piss Still, with the cambelt change costing more at a garage than a replacement car... I think I might spring for a V6 coupe next

[jasper5]

I had a look at my Autodata CD, this gives instructions for doing all sorts of timing belt jobs and loads of info needed for everyday use in the trade, the V6 does not have the same problem with the tight nut....it has 4 small bolts that have to be removed, the centre big bolt stays in.The job looks a horror, but not that bad really, they suggest special tools for certain things, but as always, you rarely need them, except timing pins, which can usually be substituted by drill bits of the correct size.
Tensioning the belt looks complicated, but Autodata tend to make it appear that way.I use a rule when tensioning belts, set it to just be able to turn the tensioner wheel, then turn engine by hand twice, then check it again.
I did a Landrover Freelander, the old 2.0 TD, timing belt, Autodata said take out driveshafts and take off engine mounts and move engine to back of engine bay, I did it without taking driveshafts out, and only taking top mounting off, the job took a third of their suggested time.


I agree, access could be difficult, but not impossible.You just have to remove a few things first.

We may have gone a bit off topic here

[steve_earwig]

No, you two carry on: Threads generally wander off 'til something happens anyway.

Besides, maybe Matt will get his belt done (dreading the day he comes on to say it's gone bang )

[teamster1975]

Useful tip there Jasper, thanks for that!
I've got a new timing belt ready to go on but after reading mjb's grief with the job put it to one side!

[mjb]

teamy: changing the belt wasn't really worrying me - I was more concerned about not being able to get my hands near the water pump. As it turns out it was just that bitch of a bolt. If you're planning on going for it, I'd skip stripping the top until you've had the wheelarch liner out and made sure you can crack the bolt. My alternator belt tensioner was seized too, that'll take a lot of working free (remember the tensioner's bloody hard to turn even when free, so don't be too gentle). There's loads that can be done to improve access on the top - tie the clutch reservoir, fuel pipes, etc out the way, tie the ecu to the engine and get rid of its box, lose the mount (actually, take the opportunity to change the pear-shaped bit)...

jasper: I'm familiar with Autodata, and the belt layout (there's a LOT of impressively detailed info on the ES9J4 in the pay-for section of servicedesk, much better than Autodata) isn't anything overly complex, although I don't yet know how the tensioner works. The only issue I have - and it's a big one - is I know there's not enough room between the engine and the body to fit my arm in. Also if the V6 water pump's as big as the tubby's I doubt it's coming out without shifting the engine

Still, I've got a squeal coming from the alternator belt area so I'll be having a better look round there soon(tm)

Maybe I should just wait until I find a decent house with garage and get a V6 coupe regardless. Pull apart the saloon for a garage full of spares and work out how everything fits together while I'm doing it

[teamster1975]

I know the aux belt tensioner is ok, I had all that apart when I changed the alternator and belt. Just need a dry Saturday and I think I'll go for it!
Oh by the way, don't worry about the throttle linkage Matt, Niz popped one in for me when I bought some bits from him

[Welly]

I will bow to much better knowledge here but I would have thought that cranking your engine with a sodding great bar locking your cranksaft pulley would strip/snap the cambelt?

[steve_earwig]

As the crankshaft drives everything I don't think that'll be a problem.

Low-flying T-bars might be though...

[teamster1975]

Another thing I just thought of, how the hell would you get the nut done back up to the correct torque?!

[Welly]

Get mjb out with his ubber-wrench

[jasper5]

No problem to the timing belt, you aren't putting any stress on that.

Flying T bars aren't a problem either because you are trapping it on the driveshaft/floor/chassis, whichever you use, but as I said, do it this way at your own risk.

Tightening is just the same, whatever method you use for removal.

[steve_earwig]

You have to turn the starter motor backwards?

[jasper5]

Silly sod ...I walked into that one

[Welly]

I remember when the Ford Sierra went 'green' on unleaded petrol about 1988 (E/F reg's) and suffered badly with running-on but also it could be seen to run backwards after the ignition was killed

Carry on......

[steve_earwig]

I've heard loads of old cars do that, it usually means it needs a de-coke.