Steering lock problem

[Zippokovich]

Im posting again, which means there is another problem with my pug

I was out to meet some friends tonight and just sitting in a car park with the engine running (it had been ever since i set off 40 minuets ago), i go to turn the engine off and the key wont turn in the ignition. It wont turn down or up (position 2 and starter motor respectively) so i couldn't turn the engine off and had no way to start it if it stalled.

I limped home and stall-stopped it and then disconnected the battery. Then me and my dad took the cover off the lower part of the steering column and tried to get the lock tumbler out but can't seem disconnect it at the moment - even with the parkers guide. We think we may need the key out to get it apart. What we did discover though is that the whole tumbler is loose and moves around.

Tomorrow we're going to phone the Peugeot dealer to ask about the part if it needs replaced and then if we need try and bump start it and take it to the garage

Any one had this happen or have any advice or help?

[mjb]

It seems ignition barrels are a bit of a weak point on some 406s

Would it help to try jiggling the steering wheel about while fiddling with the key in case it's the steering lock mechanism playing up?

[Zippokovich]

I took it to the garage today, so i can't check

But i think they're plan is to replace the whole lock tumbler and give me a new ignition key - which annoys me

Cheers for the advice anyways

[Captain Jack]

Yeah, my barrell is lose and the key motion isn't very smooth. Will spraying WD40 help at all or will I need to obtain a new ignition barrell? Does that mean a new key/reprogramming/£££?

[mjb]

I thought dealers could get new barrels made to order?

If they can't, you can transplant the PCB and transponder from your old key into the new key that came with the barrel, then decide whether or not you want to risk going day-to-day with a key that will only open the car via the plip, or carry both keys...

[steve_earwig]

COMBINATION SPECIFIED UPON ORDER

There's two (well, three counting the one for early automatic D9s) - multihex and non-multihex. Looks about 80 quid If you're off to the breaker's the change is from RPO 09002 (your build number is on the sticker with tyre pressures etc. on the driver's door A-post)

Didn't someone do one of these a short while back and find that it wasn't actually the lock? Sort of.

[jasper5]

It's definitely possible that it isn't the lock/barrel.

I would always spray WD40 into the key part before I did anything else, you'd be surprised how many times that fixes so-called faulty locks.

To check it out, firstly remove the covers, then remove the ignition switch part of the ignition lock, it will be held onto the barrel assembly with either one or two small screws, pull it away from the ignition barrel and check the operation of the switch part.This is done by putting a screwdriver into the switch part and trying to turn the plastic fitting, it should turn smoothly under spring tension, if it feels rough or there is no spring tension, this is the faulty item and not the barrel.

NOTE# When you turn the ignition part you are trying to start the car.

Now you can check the operation of the key part.