Oil change after DPF removal

[Doggy]

No idea who actually makes the stuff but I spotted 4 litres of 5/30 fully synth for £16 in Tesco earlier when I popped in for milk and bread.

In other supermarket news, Asda have 5l of 5W30 or 10W40, both fully synth, for £20 - at least that's enough to do a 2.2 oil change.
(4l means getting 2-off to start with & an extra one every 4th change)

[Rolebama]

Some 'car' oils carry additives which can cause problems on those motorcycles with a wet clutch. I am also aware that oil companies change their additives without any form of notification, so it is possible that you could buy 'identical' oil, and start having problems. If you are ever in any doubt, I have always found that Shell, in particular, answer email questions very quickly and fully.

[steve_earwig]

Some 'car' oils carry additives which can cause problems on those motorcycles with a wet clutch.

Yeah, I always though that until I was told it doesn't actually matter on the TDM forum, where they use stuff from (e.g.) Lidl to no adverse effect.

[KozmoNaut]

KozmoNaut,
You really don't want to be using car oil in your bike, there's many reasons for this far to many for me to be bothered to go into here, just Google motorcycle oil's.
And no i can't be arsed getting into another argument with you, you can put chip fat in you 'motorcycle' for all I care .
But if you like your bike use bike specific oil & don't be a cheepskate

p.s I've been around engines bike & car for over forty years , building them & racing them & my Dad & grandad before me so I do have some insight into this matter.

You're quite right that some engine oils are no good for wet clutches, just as some engine oils are no good for VAG diesels, some are no good for diesels with DPFs, and so on. In the particular case of wet clutches, the culprits are friction modifiers, which are added to modern "energy conserving" engine oils in order to reduce friction and increase economy and performance. But they foul the clutch plates in wet clutches and cause them to slip, it feels as if someone put grease on a dry clutch.

Quartz 9000 does not have these friction modifiers, since it is not an "energy conserving" oil. The manual and service notes specifically state that the EW12J4 should not be filled with "energy conserving" oil, which is why I use it, and also because it's inexpensive despite being recommended by Peugeot. I'm certain it meets the JASO MA spec for wet clutch compatibility, but the certification costs money and isn't worth it for your mainstream oil, only for your motorcycle oil where you can charge a premium for the certification. After all, car owners won't pay extra for a motorcycle-specific certification, but a lot of bike owners will, because they don't know any better.

The manual for my motorcycle (or "the alleged motorcycle" as you apparently think of it) states the following about oil:

• Fully synthetic.
• Viscosity between 0W30 and 20W50, depending on ambient temperature.
• API specification SE, SF, SG or higher.
• Avoid oils marked "energy conserving".

That is literally all it says on that subject, and I'm inclined to put my trust in Yamaha's engineers, since they designed and built the thing. JASO spec isn't mentioned, bike-specific oil isn't mentioned, they don't even plug their own Yamalube brand. The bike is a 2008 Yamaha XT660X, by the way.

Literally the only lubrication difference between a car engine and most bike engines is the wet clutch and the shared sump. We've established that most "car oil" works fine with wet clutches, even without the costly JASO MA certification, so that's not a problem. And despite what some people think, "car oil" isn't chewed up by the gearbox any faster than "motorcycle oil": http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips ... cycle.html

MCN have covered this as well:

Bottom Line
It could appear from this data, then, that there is no validity to the constantly-used argument that motorcycle-specific oils provide superior lubrication to automotive oils when used in a motorcycle. If the viscosity drop is the only criterion, then there is certainly no reason to spend the extra money on oil specifically designed for motorcycles. There does, however, appear to be a legitimate argument for using synthetic and synthetic-blend oils over the petroleum based products.

MCN's Conclusions
In speaking to a number of people involved in the production, marketing and distribution of motorcycle-specific oils, we could not find anyone who could present a valid argument for discrediting the testing done by Dr. Woolum. In general, they all tried to turn the conversation another direction by bringing up other possible advantages to using their products, while ignoring the viscosity-retention question. Yet without exception it is their own advertising that consistently brings the subject up, touting the special shear-stable polymers as the primary reason motorcyclists should purchase their products.

It is this practice to which we take exception, as we have been unable to find evidence to support these claims. In short, it seems to be nothing more than a clever marketing ploy designed to enhance their products' image and separate motorcyclists from their money.

In this case, 40 years experience and hand-me-down knowledge does not wisdom make. I've done my research instead of just relying on old wives' tales and whatever the bike store employee gets paid to shill for.