What have you fixed or replaced on your 406?

[lofty]

had the car less than a month, bear in mind some of what ive done is because i'm a fussy bugger

Full service kit
Cambelt Kit & waterpump
Fixed dodgy coolant level sensor
ALL indicator bulbs were showing white light, so changed all 6 of em!
Wiper blades
Replaced missing engine cover "top hat" type clip
Pollen filter & re-sealed filter housing
2 x front tyres
Fitted mudflaps all round
Ordered new front "splitter"

Now all thats left is to reseal the n/s/r lamp cluster because ive got a damp boot carpet and moisture in the lamp unit!!!

Then when im finally happy all the niggles are done, its got to have a monster bufty session,ie paint clay, machine polish, then the full, Glaze, sealant and wax finish to get it looking a million dollars.

TBH i dont mind the "tinkering" as if you can fix something yourself, and save yourself a whole hill of cash, its very very satisfying.

[Welly]

I missed this one,

110 HDi:

EGR valve
Bottom pulley
Intercooler pipe
Lift Pump in tank
Down pipe and catalyst
Middle pipe
Back box
Rear Engine Mount
Rad cooling fan
a/c condenser (now gone again)
2 x broken coil springs
3 tyres
front discs/pads
rear pads
fluids/filters
windscreen
cambelt

I think that's it.

[eoin27]

a/c condenser (now gone again)

Don't talk to me about the a/c. This weekend past, i spent €75 in Halfrauds getting this new rubber and metal sealer product and more a/c gas for my car. It worked sort of for a couple of days and the condesor kicked in. Then yesterday, it wouldn't. I went to check the inlet to see if any liquid would come out but only air came out for a couple of seconds i.e. the gas is gone. I am disgusted. What a waste of money. Where do i go from here??? I really want aircon but am not landing out more money just for it to leak again. Can i detect a leak myself????

[steve_earwig]

I don't think so, unless the leak is very obvious. Then I suppose you could check for deposits around joins etc. The alternative is to get it refilled with dye, then check around with an ultra-violent lamp.

[puggy]

Took me over 12 mths and around £800 to get my a/c working
all genuine parts but some sourced from fleabay , if i had bought
compressor from main stealers you could have added another £400 +
but was lucky and got genuine brand new pug one for £95

[Welly]

It's not cheap I agree but eoin - you need an a/c guy with an ultra violet flash light and groovy yellow glasses to show you where the leaks are/were, or if he's nice he might squib a bit of his Nitrogen in there and do a soap bubble test.

9 times out of 10 it'll be the condenser at the front or it's local pipework up and around the battery tray.

It's a £300.00 job in the UK fitted but you can buy a condenser, fit it yourself, and then get a mobile guy out to gass it up (fingures crossed you've done your bit right) actually your supposed to assemble any joints with lashings of refrigerant oil (we've all got a spare gallon of that right? )

I dunno, it all depends on what's leaking really as to whether you try and repair or just go the full monty - heck do you really want to throw more trial and error at the thing?

One thing I can confrm is that the 406's air con is flipping fanastic and well worth having.

[puglover]

well i have replaced or worked on :-

1, repaced the sump
2, replaced front discs and pads
3, middle section and back box on exhaust
4, rear fuel filter, (started throwing expensive gogo juice all over the road when presureised)
5, usual oil , filters, plugs.
6, front nearside coil spring, (after it snaped whilst driving)
7, 6 new tyres in 2 1/2 years
8, new wiper blades both sides (hmmmm different sizes too ?)
9, new windscreen after a council gritter peppered it just before xmas 07
10, new front antiroll bar drop links
11, new rear antiroll bar drop links
12, new rear tracking rods
13, rear tracking set up yesterday ( did them 6 months ago but only now has it decided to "eat both rear tyres )
14, temperature sender unit.... the 1 that goes to the e.c.u and controls fuel delivery and idle
15, adjusted the handbrake at least 10 times ........hmmmmmmmmm
16, had to get near side sill welded up after i found a 2 foot rusted patch held together by memory


urgent jobs to do;-

1, got to get a new bottom hose as the old 1 has rust through and is depositing large quantities of water all over floor (why did peugeot decide to have a water pipe made up of hose - metal pipe - hose........never seen a set up like this and why did they bond it all together so you have to buy the full thing rather than just a section of it.........bloody french lmao

2, handbrake adjustment .......again lol..dont know why i bother using at the moment a chocolate fire guard is of more use than my handbrake haha

[teamster1975]

Add one to the list, Aircon is now working!
There was a leak from the schrader valve which they replaced, job done! (Except the weather has now gone to pot )

[lofty]

had the car less than a month, bear in mind some of what ive done is because i'm a fussy bugger

Full service kit
Cambelt Kit & waterpump
Fixed dodgy coolant level sensor
ALL indicator bulbs were showing white light, so changed all 6 of em!
Wiper blades
Replaced missing engine cover "top hat" type clip
Pollen filter & re-sealed filter housing
2 x front tyres
Fitted mudflaps all round
Ordered new front "splitter"

Now all thats left is to reseal the n/s/r lamp cluster because ive got a damp boot carpet and moisture in the lamp unit!!!

Then when im finally happy all the niggles are done, its got to have a monster bufty session,ie paint clay, machine polish, then the full, Glaze, sealant and wax finish to get it looking a million dollars.

TBH i dont mind the "tinkering" as if you can fix something yourself, and save yourself a whole hill of cash, its very very satisfying.

edit - recent parts include

1 x n/s/f CV joint (broken abs ring!)
2 x rear suspension top links
2 x new rear tyres

on the imminent horizon....

Middle and back section of exhaust
full 4 wheel alignment

plus the 132k service will be soon...

[ed209]

Over the past 3 years the milage has taken its toll! (250k)

I recently jacked up the wing mirrors and replaced just about everything beneath!

[Smelliot]

OK, this is going to be a hell of a list if I can remember everything..... but from the top of my head in 2.5 years:

Rear suspension drop links (the rubber/plastic anti-roll bars)
Rear discs/drums overhaul
rear trailing arm
Front drop links
Front pads
it's had 4 new tyres
recon turbo
exhaust manifold
timing belt
water pump
knock sensor
new cat (for sale, only done 3000 miles, any takers?)
replacement intercooler
dump valve
bleed valve
boost gauge
fuel cut defender
removed towbar
replacement induction kit
stainless powerflow exhaust
high flow stainless cat
iridium plugs
high gain leads
replacement coil
replaced back lights
replaced drivers side headlight
all front bulbs
replaced turbo boost pressure regulator valve (can't remember it's real name)
3 or 4 lots of oil changes
added eyelids on headlights
replacement/changed headunit
replaced thermostat
replaced boot lining (with a black set off a D9)
replaced seats
replaced wipers
replaced springs with apex 30mm lowering springs
fixed cabin fan motor (connector melted)

I'm still chasing a problem tho, car just isn't as quick as it should be, so still to do/check:
crank sensor
lambda sensor
fuel pressure regulator
cooling system sensors
front fan (got the one fan, full speed only problem)

and for general upkeep:
replace passenger side front wing due to rust (anyone know where I can get a D8 silver front wing cheap from?)
replace door finger guards (blistered and bubbled in heat/sun/rain/frost)
check rear light seals (as found boot wet the other day)
replace dial cluster lights (almost half gone now, like the sidelight or headlight bulbs, I have to guess what light's I've got on )

When I look back, it might have been easier to just buy a new bloody car, but I have fell in love with this one And I have had alot of help from Niz, most of the uprated parts are from his 406.

After this list of done and too do, has anyone got any suggestions why my car is slow compared to a standard tubby and also runs hot? I ran into another tubby on the M60 the other day and he just ran rings around me, I couldn't keep up

[Welly]

bleed valve
boost gauge
fuel cut defender............

has anyone got any suggestions why my car is slow compared to a standard tubby and also runs hot?

If you run higher boost but don't address the fuelling then it will run lean and hot causing loss of performance. Maybe your injectors are tired? normally you'd look at lifting the fuel pressure and different injectors, fuel map, head gasket,.............

[Smelliot]

I was coming to the conclusion that fuelling was the problem here as it does run out of puff at 4000 revs when I've seen these cars fly up to the redline... might also be why it idles like a nail, real lumpy and pops alot (sounds good with the exhaust tho )

I don't run it with silly amounts of boost, just got the bleed valve there to let it boost to 12-14psi in every gear instead of 6-7 in first and second, 8-10 in third and forth and 12 in fifth (I think). So upgrading the injectors or the head gasket isn't on the list.... yet, I just want to get it running right and quick as it should be. How would I go around testing/upgrading the fuel delivery, it is a simple valve change, or is it a full fuel system overhaul?

Do injectors become tired with age or abuse? The car has done just over 146k miles, so should changing the injectors be on the list? I've only had the car 2.5 years now, but it looks like had come from an enthusiast as it's been looked after, but the inter cooler was split down the side and the turbo was knackard, so I think he'd had a bit 'too' much fun with it and then got rid once he broke it. But the head gasket seems fine, no oil in water/ water in oil or smoke or whatnot, so I think/hope all is fine there

[Welly]

I'm not really in a position to advise on tuning but most would start by beefing up the turbo, head gasket, even forged pistons, and maybe a bigger radiator. The fuel pump would be uprated as would the fuel pressure regulator (you might want to check yours isn't playing up and losing fuel supply to the rail?) injector size (cc's) can be uprated too and the whole lot ran up on a rolling road to check the mixture across the whole range. Not forgetting a proper fuel re-map of course. What kills these modified cars is lean fueling and excess heat!

Unfortunately it's not something you can sort of keep adding too and hope the whole lot works together but more often a case of failing components, trial and error, expense, etc.

Why not back off a bit with the boost until you know if anything else is at fault?

[swiss]

Injectors will need overhauling now and then. If you don't have a test rig you'll need to send them off to a specialist. They'll clean 'em up, reset the break pressures and replace any bits that need replacing. It's on my list of things to do.