Crank Pulley

[helmik]

So, today i finally got round to starting to fit the new water pump and timing belt to the bus. Its an HDI 90 on a 51 plate. Had a job getting the bottom pulley off and once off i "inspected" it.

So a couple of questions, its in 2 parts, no bonding, does that mean it needs replacing?? If so is there a make i should avoid? When i say its in 2 parts, theres one part that slides into the other part, the inner has a wider slot to fit over the woodruff key, does this sound right as looking at it and from what ive read the two halves move to damp out vibration? Where is the rubber bit that breaks up, should that be inside or is it where the centre bolt goes through?

I have stopped at the moment due to rain, garage is full of rubbish and crap so doing it on the drive.

Cheers

Mick

[Welly]

As far as I know the pulley is in one piece with an inner and outer part built in.

The older pulleys had 2 'slots' on the face where the inner and outer parts are aloud to move independently. The revised version had 3 slots to help distribute the torque effect more evenly.

The best ones are at the main dealers and will come in a Peugeot/Citroen box. The one for the 110HDi used to be about £120.00.

[Quinny1]

The best ones are at the main dealers and will come in a Peugeot/Citroen box. The one for the 110HDi used to be about £120.00.

If you could have got me one for that from the stealers 2 years ago, I would have took your hand off.

At the time of replacing mine, I was in GSF a few weeks later, and he showed me an identical one, with PSA markings on it, for less than £100, just because it came in a plain white box.

[Welly]

I'm sure mine was bought-in by my garage for £128.00 from the dealers, that was a couple of years ago.....

I've seen them on ebay for £50-odd but we all said not to bother here

[helmik]

Well, thanks for the help but ive refitted the original. Although it comes apart it seems solid enough once the crank bolt is tightened back up. No rattles, so far and touch wood, went back on fine, no swarf anywhere so i decided to reuse it for now and see what happens.

Also did the timing belt and water pump today. Easy job, followed the how to and its spot on. Gives just the right level of information and also some useful tips especially about retensioning the new belt.
All seems to be working again, and it sounds quieter too.
Also gave me the chance to cable tie the engine cover on, bolt the undertray on instead of the rubbish Peugeot bolts.

thanks again, i will update in the near future, especially if it all goes wrong.

Mick.

[Welly]

Also did the timing belt and water pump today. Easy job, followed the how to and its spot on. Gives just the right level of information and also some useful tips especially about retensioning the new belt.

Great stuff, I've never done a belt myself but I think that the HDi belt isn't too bad a job - DIY'ers can be scared off doing belts but if you take your time and work methodically then you're know better or worse than a garage doing it for you really (hark at me, Mr won't-get-my-hands-dirty-Welly)

I suppose if you need some special tools then the cost might prevent you trying it yourself, then of course ramps are always very handy too but I'm glad you got on ok.

[steve_earwig]

I've done an Ashtray and a Transit (piece of cake) but when I thought about doing my 2.1's I started reading the Haynes and it was "tighten this, loosen that, turn the other..." It probably makes sense while you're looking at it but I really didn't want to get half way through it and have to call in the professionals That's when I discovered how cheap labour charges are here

I thought the crank pulley was two halves bonded together with rubber, if one is free to turn against the other it's a bad sign... Well, I guess you're quite capable if there's any problems but you might want to draw a line across it with Tippex and keep an eye on it.

[Welly]

The other issue of course with older diesels is making sure the timing is kept, you can lock stuff off but if you've never done it before........

[helmik]

The other issue of course with older diesels is making sure the timing is kept, you can lock stuff off but if you've never done it before........

The HDI was a lot easier than some petrol engines ive done. You need 2 bolts to lock the camshaft and the flywheel, every other pulley can be left in any position so its easy. The bolt into the flywheel is a pig but if you drop the starter motor it becomes easier, now ive done it once and i know where the hole is i wont need to drop the starter next time. Camshaft is easy, just follow the how to and it is easy. Took me about 4 hours which inclued a couple of other jobs so not too bad.
the only other problem is the crank pulley bolt. As they are loctited in they are a bugger to undo. Theres a couple of methods in the how to's. Other than that i didnt struggle but i am quite a confident mechanic.

Mick.

[jasper5]

The other issue of course with older diesels is making sure the timing is kept, you can lock stuff off but if you've never done it before........

This is where my method of marking all the pulley teeth with tippex becomes useful, any of the pulleys can move, but as you have marked them, you just move them back into position.I very rarely use locking tools, except in the case of a recent VW TDi I did, there is a small locking device for the hydraulic part of the tensioner, this is essential.
I did a Mazda MX5 on wednesday, the book suggested removing the radiator....why the heck would you do that? Loads of room

Undoing the pulley bolt on any engine except Honda is a doddle using my method of undoing it, never failed yet

[FarmerPug]

The Suzuki Samurai has to be the easiest thing in the world to change belts and pulleys etc, there is tonnes of room and its all handy sizes to work with, but is it the crankshaft pulley that makes that odd noise on the HDI i hear other ones making the noise, but my car has a reciept saying it was replaced at some time

[plod]

I paid about £84 for my pulley for my HDi 110 and that was from the stealers.

There was a stealer selling pulleys for about £81 posted on the bay, so rang up the stealers and at first they wanted over a ton, asked for discount and they offered me one for £96, so told them I could get one for £81 and they said it can't be genuine, so told them it was from a pug dealer and they then offered me one for £84

[jasper5]

HDi crank pulleys have been on offer at the dealers for ages at £80 plus vat.

[plod]

HDi crank pulleys have been on offer at the dealers for ages at £80 plus vat.

Obviously some stealers are trying to maximise profits at the expense of us

[steve_earwig]

Well yeah, the dealers have long since realised making huge profits doesn't have to stop once the sell the car