dodgy electrics

Talk about the 406's electrical system, what wires do what, how to add extra functionality, etc.

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scooby
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dodgy electrics

Post by scooby »

first let me say hi all
i recently got a 406 estate d9 2.0hdi its done 170k miles and still runs great but!
i have a few intemitent faults
central locking works when it feels like it doesnt seem to like mornings(i know how it feels)
i get a low brake fluid warning every now and then
temp gauge is very intermitent more of than on
speedo is also intermitent(but no loss of power when not working)
electric windows not working(i think ive blown the fuse as was working except drivers one until i played)
ok central locking i have noticed a buzzing noise from drivers rear door when operated
brake warning ive checked the fluid level and conectors all seem ok
after reading this forum i thought it might be the usual conectors in drivers foot well but they are all clean and dry
ive looked at the fuse box and cant see any that look blown is there a relay for the windows that might have gone
any help would be great thanks
2000 w reg 406 estate 2.0 hdi with 7 seat conversion
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Doggy
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Re: dodgy electrics

Post by Doggy »

Hi scooby & welcome. 8)

Be good if you posted the age of your car as there are two very different electrical systems, which changed over around mid-2001.

There's been a fair amount or related posts recently, you might find sime relevent stuff from scanning the first couple of dozen 'unread posts'. The search function's good too.

There are two fuseboxes BTW, engine, (in front of battery) & passenger, (behind drop down flap under steering wheel).

There are known problems with brake fliud level / handbrake switch.
2002 HDi 2.2 Exec Estate, (2008-12) (wonderful)
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate (2012-19) (also a gem)
2009 Citroen C5 2.0 HDi VTR+ Estate (godawful heap)
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2007 BMW E91 325i touring (slower smoother quieter)
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steve_earwig
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Re: dodgy electrics

Post by steve_earwig »

I sounds like some of that is probably dry joints on the clocks...
scooby wrote:central locking works when it feels like it doesnt seem to like mornings(i know how it feels)
Is this just unlocking or everything?
scooby wrote:ok central locking i have noticed a buzzing noise from drivers rear door when operated
Is this when it goes wrong or when it does actually work?
scooby wrote:i get a low brake fluid warning every now and then
Probably the handbrake switch - a temporary cures seems to be to yank the handbrake up & down a few dozen times, failing that change the switch.
scooby wrote:ive looked at the fuse box and cant see any that look blown is there a relay for the windows that might have gone
The relay is inside the BSI but the fuse for the whole lot is fuse E:
Image
dogslife wrote:Be good if you posted the age of your car as there are two very different electrical systems, which changed over around mid-2001.
And what are you going to do when the OP comes back with "2001"? :P
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scooby
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Re: dodgy electrics

Post by scooby »

hi sorry this is a 2000 w reg
central locking is making noise when it works or not and has trouble both locking and unlocking but if it unlocks it will always lock and when it doesnt unlock you have to lock it manualy
ive seen a set of clocks in local scrappy with 5 dials instead of my 4 that looks better as it seems this is a straight swap ill try them and let you know if it cures it
i will try the relay on windows tomorrow as ive checked both fuse boxes and all seem fine
thanks
2000 w reg 406 estate 2.0 hdi with 7 seat conversion
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Doggy
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Re: dodgy electrics

Post by Doggy »

steve_earwig wrote:And what are you going to do when the OP comes back with "2001"? :P
I hear you, Steve.

Just trying not to hit newcomers with a barrage of obscure questions, (build code, COM2000? et al), just so we know which of our anorak pockets to check......
2002 HDi 2.2 Exec Estate, (2008-12) (wonderful)
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate (2012-19) (also a gem)
2009 Citroen C5 2.0 HDi VTR+ Estate (godawful heap)
2008 BMW E91 330i touring (great fun - murdered by a reversing SUV)
2007 BMW E91 325i touring (slower smoother quieter)
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steve_earwig
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Re: dodgy electrics

Post by steve_earwig »

I've been thinking about putting it in a sticky. It's always going to be an issue if the car's registered in 2001 (or 1999) so I reckon it's best if we get it out the way first so we can get straight to the nub of the problem without playing 20 questions.
scooby wrote:central locking is making noise when it works or not and has trouble both locking and unlocking but if it unlocks it will always lock and when it doesnt unlock you have to lock it manualy
The grumbling lock may or may not be related then. The usual central locking problem is the car bouncing unlocked all the time, or the whole lot is dead of course. Did you change the battery in the remote yet?
ive seen a set of clocks in local scrappy with 5 dials instead of my 4 that looks better as it seems this is a straight swap ill try them and let you know if it cures it
I have a feeling the wiring's different...
i will try the relay on windows tomorrow as ive checked both fuse boxes and all seem fine
There are 5 fuse panels... Try the one marked "E" on my picture, you won't be able to get to the relay without a saw.
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scooby
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Re: dodgy electrics

Post by scooby »

sorry i realised about the relay after id posted i will try the fuse though
central locking is same on key or remote so would the battery still make a difference
the clock where in a w reg hdi but nowing my luck they will be different
ive removed my clocks today and cleaned the connectors then been out and all worked but its done this a few times so still to see
im hopping to get chance to strip the rear door and see if theres anything there i can see
once again thanks for the replies and i will keep you posted if i sort it
2000 w reg 406 estate 2.0 hdi with 7 seat conversion
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steve_earwig
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Re: dodgy electrics

Post by steve_earwig »

There are a few people on here that have done stuff with clocks, I think the biggest worry is that the BSI stores the mileage as well as the clocks, so if you put another set of clocks on it'll add the two together... Not investigated this one much myself though. I don't know if the wiring thing is crossing the semi-mux/full-mux boundry but I'd be very careful anyway because they're both multiplex. The clocks are infamous for dry joints, the usual method is to pull it out & go over it to look for dry joints. Then, when you can't find any, you go over it and resolder every single joint.

So when the locks aren't working you use the key in the driver's door and it just unlocks the driver's door?
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scooby
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Re: dodgy electrics

Post by scooby »

yes thats right if remote doesnt work the key will only open drivers door but when i first got the car the button on remote was faulty so i used the key and still had the problem with central locking
2000 w reg 406 estate 2.0 hdi with 7 seat conversion
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steve_earwig
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Re: dodgy electrics

Post by steve_earwig »

It's a toughy, I've spent a couple of hours Googling and come up with zilch. The c/l is run straight from the BSI, there is no control box but I don't know how the BSI receives the signal. It's radio though.

Next time it fecks up, try using the plip inside the car and listen for the relays in the BSI clicking. Also try the lock on the passenger door (why look for one fault when it could be 2?)
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