JAMMED REAR DOOR 406 HDI 110 2004 - SUCCESS!

[panadero]

This follows earlier postings and thanks again to “lozz”. Just to recap, my problem arose when the central locking suddenly decided to open all doors except the OSR. Evidently the electrical impulse was reaching that door (i.e. no wiring problem) but nothing was happening. It’s worth saying here that the likely culprit the solenoid (which is integrated within the door mech) does not in itself open the door. It merely enables the external or internal handles to work as they should – in other words there could be a problem with the external door linkage within the mech rather than with the solenoid. Never mind one way or the other the door mech is faulty and has to come out!
Having removed the door card I worked through the door window as this is the only way to access the job but b****y painful on the back! I got a long drill bit (220 mm or 8.8 inches long and 4 mm dia.) from ebay being unable to obtain one locally. This means you can drill into the mech which is impossible with the standard drill bit which is normally about 4 inches long. A 6 mm dia bit as well would give you more welly but these bits don’t come cheap. Care is needed with a long thin bit because they can snap easily.

I kicked off by drilling into the point where the metal link to the external door handle sits on its pivot. Then used a heavy thick bladed screwdriver (with metal top to handle) to bash off the link from its seating here. This is the area you need to concentrate on throughout the job because it is the quickest route to the trigger point for opening the door. Most of the door mech is plastic and I just gradually degraded it through the combined use of the drill and hammer/screwdriver. The main objective should be to degrade the area around the pivot post referred to above. Eventually the screwdriver blade will penetrate through to the point where you are basically at the bottom of the mech plastic casing. I pushed in the driver blade here i.e. between the black plastic around the pivot post and the white plastic section at the top of the mech (where the electrical bayonet connector is situated). I could now feel the door move and eventually with further twisting of the screwdriver the door came open. Geronimo!! I could now access the 3 securing screws and remove the door mech completely although the rods are a bit tricky (Haynes book says they have to be drilled out of the door handle first). I would recommend removing the exterior door handle to help with removal of the door mech. NB there are 2 by 10mm nuts securing the external door handle. One is fairly straightforward but the other one can only be accessed by removing a plug from the area near where the 3 securing screws are located. I foolishly let this nut drop inside the door but retrieved it so I would suggest putting grease or Vaseline on the socket so the nut sticks to it. In this kind of exercise dropping bits down inside the door is always a danger. I stuffed paper and cloth down into the door adjacent to the window winder to try and prevent this but with limited success.

Now a cautionary word about the replacement part. Peugeots wanted £146 for the part alone and a further £200 to do the whole job. I therefore got the part from an ebay scrappie for £28 but the part was incorrect and had to be returned. In fairness the supplier readily coughed to his error and gave me a full paypal refund plus my return postage costs. I would strongly advise anyone doing this job to wait until they have removed the mech and then photograph it and send the pic via email to the supplier. This should greatly reduce the risk of getting the wrong part. I am now doing exactly this with a new supplier. Also try and get a non-premium landline phone number for the supplier so you can discuss the matter if necessary. NB a NSR rear door mech does not fit the OSR so you need to be precise with the supplier about this.

I hope the above advice is useful to anyone suffering this very annoying problem which I had never previously encountered. Even if you just get the faulty part out by following the steps above; get another one from a scrappie and then decide to have it installed by a non-franchise garage you will have saved a lot of money. I took a leisurely approach to removing the part over several hours but even a garage mechanic (oops sorry technician) would arguably have taken a couple of hours (£150 ish) because access is very constricted indeed and there is no specialist equipment or tools to speed up the job so far as I know.

[lozz]

Excellent mate. glad to hear you got it sorted,
and your tips and Methods listed,might help someone out on here in the future it will save someone a few quid , Thanks for adding the Walkthrough of how you sorted it,