BSI info

[Malc]

Anyone out there successfully changed a BSI with result a fully operational 406?

[Doggy]

If you mean re-configure a 2nd hand BSI, then no, I don't think it's easy, (there's talk of 'virginising' BSI's whatever that means).

If you've got a dead BSI, then a possible solution is to swap a set of bits from a scrapper, (keys, transponder, engine ecu and BSI) from a car of similar spec and age. IIRC wasp did this a few years back and wound up getting cruise control too. If I can find his post, I'll add a link,

[nutski]

Like Doggy says the normal route is to swap the entire lot over (including instrument cluster depending if you are bothered about mileage), i've done this a couple of times and its pretty straight forward.
Virginizing a BSI is a specialist job which may cost more than swapping everything over, even more expensive is a replacement BSI and then coding that!

What issues are you having that you need to change it?

[Doggy]

Here you go.......viewtopic.php?t=6711

[Malc]

doggy/nutski Thank you for your replies.
Presently my probs are blower motor and a/c.
Nothing on the control wires from the bsi to the blower motor voltage control unit.
Haven't had a serious look at the a/c but my guess there is no 12v to the compressor from the bsi relay.
I appreciate having to changeh ecu bsi and transponder is really the only answer but finding the lot for £100 here in France is just impossible (BSI alone approx E250) and this is where they are made!
Don't know what virginising stands for but I found this very interesting...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... SYx_Yn5YqY

[Malc]

continuing from above...
What the you-tube video is demonstrating is if the original bsi is shot the easiest way to replace is to buy another from a scrappy and replace the eeprom with a cloned replacement programmed from the original complete with your vin number etc etc ...
I actually cannot see why you just don't unsolder and swap over the eeproms without going thru all the rigmarol on the video.
If you do go down the road of pc capture and save via the lanco program it is not really necessary to build an eeprom programmer as they are available on ebay for as little as £4.

[Doggy]

Interesting.

I actually cannot see why you just don't unsolder and swap over the eeproms without going thru all the rigmarol on the video.

I suppose the process reduces the chance of losing everything if you damage the eeprom while desoldering, but I see what you mean.

Is your 406 a semi-mux version?

[Malc]

I suppose the process reduces the chance of losing everything if you damage the eeprom while desoldering, but I see what you mean. Is your 406 a semi-mux version?

Unlike the old days most modern solder tag type IC's can take a fair bit of soldering and de-soldering but agree a progmem capture would be the safest.

2001 so I guess that is semi-mux

[Doggy]

2001 so I guess that is semi-mux

I think they changed over in the middle of 2001 - at build code (DAM) 9000

Full-mux cars have COM2000 stalks, comme ça

[Malc]

Yup look the same. Any special reason for asking?

[Doggy]

The guide you linked to on Youtube, 2nd slide, I thought said it was only valid for semi-mux, (non-COM2000), cars, but the more times I read it, the less sure I am as to what it means.

[Malc]

The guide you linked to on Youtube, 2nd slide, I thought said it was only valid for semi-mux, (non-COM2000), cars, but the more times I read it, the less sure I am as to what it means.

Thanks for that Dogsy I read it as working with the relevant BSI numbers thru to D9.
What really gets to me is a car of this calibre with such sh!te electronics!!! The designer needs guillotining!!!

[Doggy]

I think it's above & behind the fusebox......



Looks a bit like a fusebox itself

[Malc]

Thanks Doggy. Actually below and slightly behind the fusebox.
It should slide forward on rails but something holding it towards the back of the unit..
Getting there but any help would be appreciated...

[nutski]

Thanks Doggy. Actually below and slightly behind the fusebox.
It should slide forward on rails but something holding it towards the back of the unit..
Getting there but any help would be appreciated...

It clips in to the housing, normally there is a small metal bracket front right which you remove and then it should come forwards with a little persuasion