D8 keypad constant red & green

maglite · Post by **maglite** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:49 pm

I tried to start my D8 today and just as I was about to type in the pin number I noticed that both the red and green lights on the pad were constantly on. The car started perfectly fine before and I don't know what's happened

I looked in the manual and it states to consult the stealer if the lights are constantly on. I'm going to disconnect the battery overnight to see if that helps.

Any ideas anyone

Captain Jack · Post by **Captain Jack** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 10:06 pm

Did the car start after punching the code in, though?

Benner · Post by **Benner** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 10:18 pm

I have had a quick look into this and have found that many people have had this come up when the battery is getting flat, and they have said to recharge the battery then give it a go.

Not sure why a low battery would do this, but a few people have had the same problem and recharging has cured it.

maglite · Post by **maglite** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:52 pm

Captain Jack wrote:Did the car start after punching the code in, though?

No it was as if the immobilizer was on.

Thanks Benner, I will charge up the Battery over night. The battery hasn't been changed for about 4 years, so it could be weak cells in the battery. I'll give it a shot.

Thanks again guys

Benner · Post by **Benner** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 5:37 pm

No probs.

Let us know how you get on

maglite · Post by **maglite** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 5:37 pm

Ok I charged up the battery, it was showing a steady 13.5v. After putting it in, I've got the same problem. Both the red & green LEDs on the pad are both constant and the car still won't start.

jameslxdt · Post by **jameslxdt** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 6:44 pm

uh oh, this is where, if you had a petrol all hell would break loose, but there is a 'relatively' cheap solution to this, if your handy with a spanner, whip of the injection pump, drill out the stop solenoid shield, identify which wire going into the coded module is the igntion feed, cut the module out, insulate the rest of the wires, attach the igntion wire direct to the stop solenoid, go to pug, get, i think 6 shear bolts, fit the shield back, refit the pump and your done, just make sure you disconnect the keypad before refitting the pump

niz406 · Post by **niz406** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 12:07 am

Or you could just drop the drivers lower dash panel and fix the broken wires on the back of the keypad which is the common fault with the D9's keypad !

Usually if both lights are on, you should enter the code a second time and you will get four beeps and four flashes, it should start after this, if not then its more than just one broken wire !

maglite · Post by **maglite** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 12:19 am

jameslxdt wrote:uh oh, this is where, if you had a petrol all hell would break loose, but there is a 'relatively' cheap solution to this, if your handy with a spanner, whip of the injection pump, drill out the stop solenoid shield, identify which wire going into the coded module is the igntion feed, cut the module out, insulate the rest of the wires, attach the igntion wire direct to the stop solenoid, go to pug, get, i think 6 shear bolts, fit the shield back, refit the pump and your done, just make sure you disconnect the keypad before refitting the pump

Hello! This week I decided to sort this problem out. I attemped to remove the pump with the aid of a crappy Haynes manual which wasn't much help. Anyway, I managed to take out the pump and I took it into the Shed to do some surgery. Before I started I thought I should goto the Stealers and ask them for 6 Sher bolts. Typically the guy at the counter had no idea what I was asking for. I explained it all to him and he just look at me with this

face. I then got back home and started to look at the wires behind the keypad and then that got me all confused. Should I just run a wire from the ignition to the solenoid? Also when I put the pump back will this affect the timing belt?

I rememeber when I first got the D8, a friend of my called George suggested unplugging the pad while the car was running. He said by doing that I wouldn't need to use the pad to start the car.

I wish I had done that now.

jameslxdt · Post by **jameslxdt** » Sun Apr 29, 2007 9:27 am

have you got the shield off the pump yet?
the disconnecting keypad method doesnt work on the diesel, you need to do a spot of rewiring on the keypad plug, i did this to my old car, but i cant remember how the heck i did it sorry

maglite · Post by **maglite** » Wed May 02, 2007 12:51 am

james, I owe you a drink mate. I finally got the D8 starting without the keypad from hell!

I managed to get the sher bolts for the sheild from another stealer. I managed to put everything back and replaced the solenoid with a new one.

Ive ran a wire directly to the solenoid from an ignition feed.

niz406 · Post by **niz406** » Wed May 02, 2007 11:59 am

Oh dear.... bodge and scarper ! lmao

jameslxdt · Post by **jameslxdt** » Thu May 03, 2007 6:59 pm

hey look you can now get to the max fuel screw, wind the boost up, the max fuel screw, and the on-boost fueling = 140 bhp and 225lb/ft of torque
and lot of smoke