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Thanks for the reply friend. I connected the pipes in correct way as you advised. Seems no problem with it. I can hear a turbo whine in 1800 rpm. I driven the car for more than 1000Km. not noticed any problem. Is it ok to keep these pipes in this way. Does solenoid valve trigger an error code when it is not functioning properly?GingerMagic wrote:Sorry, only just noticed you replied...
The turbo solenoid can be swapped with one from a scrap car, or you can swap the blue plug one over with the turbo one, just for a diagnosis to see if it works.
Firstly, you need to reconnect the turbo solenoid with the correct pipes, so you need to pull the big circled pipe apart, the bit with the white stripe should go onto the thin part of the solenoid, the other part into the bigger connector on the solenoid.
The two smaller circled parts need to be put back together, so the pipe that is hanging down should be pushed into the larger pipe in the top circle.
Once its plumbed in correctly you can see if it works.
If you have any open pipes, then the vacuum that is need to control the turbo is lost into the atmosphere...
Turbo not spooling up enough, bad driving performance.What would be the bad impact if waste gate is permanently opened?
Indeed, the photo seems to show that the wastegate is constantly on vacuum. However, I think this will keep the wastegate closed instead of open, at all times. So then, instead, the turbo is always being spooled up to its max. At low revs that is not much. But at cruising speed and higher, there is a fairly high boost pressure. I will result in a bit lower fuel economy, and a turbo that wears faster.At the moment the wastegate on your turbo is connected directly to a vacuum supply, holding the wastegate open at all times.
My experience with an EGR solenoid plugged in electrically, but the vacuum line plugged off: the engine management computer (ECU) does not see that the EGR solenoid is not connected, so it tries to operate it. I could see this in the PP2000 while driving.NOTE: Make sure you leave all 3 EV's with their electrical connector plugged IN
Yes, good point, I am also wondering why this setup would not lead to entering limp mode. Could very well be a vacuum leak, as you say.In this case, I'm almost certain the car will go into limp mode each time its driven, unless VERY gently.
Turbo usually stays between 2200 and 2300. It gets to 2300 sometimes... but it never gets to 2500 as requested
If I recall correctly, this turbo is rated for 1,3bar boost.
Hi Ben, Thank you for the long descriptive reply and advice. I don't want to keep EGR+doser. Could you please describe some more on connecting T-piece? The hoses which I indicated with blue arrows.Username Removed wrote:Your current EV setup is very...bodged, to say the least. At the moment the wastegate on your turbo is connected directly to a vacuum supply, holding the wastegate closed at all times. This will be causing the car to trigger a MIL and potentially limp mode if it sees the turbo overboosting regularly. If I were you, I'd set it up like this:
This layout will disable the EGR valve and air doser (increasing fuel economy, lowering smoke levels and sharpening throttle response) as well as allowing the turbocharger to build boost and function properly. You can discard all the old vacuum lines that will no longer be used, which makes things significantly easier to work with (but make sure you don't leave any leaks in the system). You'll be amazed at the difference after this, it'll feel like a new car. (NOTE: Make sure you leave all 3 EV's with their electrical connector plugged IN)
If you don't want to lose the EGR + doser system (no idea why you'd keep them, they are a hindrance and clog the intake manifold), I will do you another drawing showing how to have all 3 active, but I'd strongly recommend you follow my advice on this one.
Best Regards,
Ben.
Hi Ben, clearly understood. I did the configuration and ran the car for few kilometers, Now I feel the car runs better than before. Thank you for your time and effort to sort this out. with this setup can I drive the car in high rpm (more than 3000rpm)? before this setup when I rev the engine over 3000rpm (not smoothly through gas pedal, but from the TPS under the hood) , black smoke came from exhaust. Still didn't check with this setup. Is it due to soot build up in exhaust systom?Username Removed wrote:Hi Tila,
If you look at the brake servo, underneath the brake fluid reservoir you will see a plastic connector t-piece with a few vacuum lines coming from it. At the moment one of these lines goes straight to your turbo, and the other one will go to one of your other EV's. Block one of the two nipples off as per the diagram, and direct the other one to the input of the turbo EV (left one). Connect the output vacuum line from the EV to your turbo (already one end has been done) and ensure you have no leaks. You will have some extra pipe left over that is no longer used, keep this safe in case you ever need to return it to its original configuration.
Hope that helps!
Best Regards,
Ben.
Hi GingerMagic, highly appreciate your time and effort on this. Is it the same configuration which Ben has illustrated?GingerMagic wrote:Here is a picture that I spent time* and effort* doing a while ago.
Ignore the green line - it isn't on a 2.0Hdi - so you need to split the feeds from the vac pump - send the main one to the servo ( the one without the pin hole restrictor ) and the other to the turbo solenoid.
In this case I have used a red pipe to the servo, and a blue pipe to the turbo - for illustration purposes...
