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Thanks for the reply friend. I connected the pipes in correct way as you advised. Seems no problem with it. I can hear a turbo whine in 1800 rpm. I driven the car for more than 1000Km. not noticed any problem. Is it ok to keep these pipes in this way. Does solenoid valve trigger an error code when it is not functioning properly?GingerMagic wrote:Sorry, only just noticed you replied...
The turbo solenoid can be swapped with one from a scrap car, or you can swap the blue plug one over with the turbo one, just for a diagnosis to see if it works.
Firstly, you need to reconnect the turbo solenoid with the correct pipes, so you need to pull the big circled pipe apart, the bit with the white stripe should go onto the thin part of the solenoid, the other part into the bigger connector on the solenoid.
The two smaller circled parts need to be put back together, so the pipe that is hanging down should be pushed into the larger pipe in the top circle.
Once its plumbed in correctly you can see if it works.
If you have any open pipes, then the vacuum that is need to control the turbo is lost into the atmosphere...
Turbo not spooling up enough, bad driving performance.What would be the bad impact if waste gate is permanently opened?
Indeed, the photo seems to show that the wastegate is constantly on vacuum. However, I think this will keep the wastegate closed instead of open, at all times. So then, instead, the turbo is always being spooled up to its max. At low revs that is not much. But at cruising speed and higher, there is a fairly high boost pressure. I will result in a bit lower fuel economy, and a turbo that wears faster.At the moment the wastegate on your turbo is connected directly to a vacuum supply, holding the wastegate open at all times.
My experience with an EGR solenoid plugged in electrically, but the vacuum line plugged off: the engine management computer (ECU) does not see that the EGR solenoid is not connected, so it tries to operate it. I could see this in the PP2000 while driving.NOTE: Make sure you leave all 3 EV's with their electrical connector plugged IN
Good point with respect to unplugging the solenoids, I can't imagine it makes much difference either way - the EGR system is mapped out of mine, so I've unplugged them. And very good spot, I was confusing the DW10 turbo with the DW12 turbo, no vacuum means wastegate open, and vacuum means wastegate closed as a safety measure. In this case, I'm almost certain the car will go into limp mode each time its driven, unless VERY gently. Having remapped mine, I know the turbocharger can produce 2300mbar absolute at just 1900rpm, the standard ECU file will engage limp mode if it sees a regular overboost which I'm sure it will be doing. Limp mode at the moment is the only thing preventing OPs car absolutely destroying the turbocharger, full throttle from 2000rpm onwards is enough to potentially overspeed the turbocharger if the wastegate isn't functioning. Watching PP2000 on mine, the wastegate EV duty cycle starts to decrease from 1900rpm under full throttle, and that's with the boost cap raised from 2000mbar to 2380mbar!frog wrote:Nice artwork Ben!
Indeed, the photo seems to show that the wastegate is constantly on vacuum. However, I think this will keep the wastegate closed instead of open, at all times. So then, instead, the turbo is always being spooled up to its max. At low revs that is not much. But at cruising speed and higher, there is a fairly high boost pressure. I will result in a bit lower fuel economy, and a turbo that wears faster.At the moment the wastegate on your turbo is connected directly to a vacuum supply, holding the wastegate open at all times.
My experience with an EGR solenoid plugged in electrically, but the vacuum line plugged off: the engine management computer (ECU) does not see that the EGR solenoid is not connected, so it tries to operate it. I could see this in the PP2000 while driving.NOTE: Make sure you leave all 3 EV's with their electrical connector plugged IN
As a result, more fresh air is entering than the ECU thinks it should, since in fact the EGR is not recycling any air; all air inlet is fresh and that is measured by the mass air flow (MAF) sensor. The ECU sees this and flags a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) indicating "more air inlet than expected" or so. The DTC does not lead to any indication on the dashboard or message on the display.
When I disconnected also the electrical plugs, the ECU "knows" that the EGR solenoid is not connected and will not try to operate it. I could see this in the PP2000 while driving: EGR level went down to 0%. This will flag a different error, something like: "EGR solenoid not connected". But the measured air flow by the MAF is correct and the ECU will be able to give a smoke-free drive. And here too, the DTC does not lead to anything on the dash or display.
So my advise is to electrically disconnect the unused solenoids.
Yes, good point, I am also wondering why this setup would not lead to entering limp mode. Could very well be a vacuum leak, as you say.In this case, I'm almost certain the car will go into limp mode each time its driven, unless VERY gently.
Turbo usually stays between 2200 and 2300. It gets to 2300 sometimes... but it never gets to 2500 as requested
If I recall correctly, this turbo is rated for 1,3bar boost.
Hi Ben, Thank you for the long descriptive reply and advice. I don't want to keep EGR+doser. Could you please describe some more on connecting T-piece? The hoses which I indicated with blue arrows.fattail95 wrote:Your current EV setup is very...bodged, to say the least. At the moment the wastegate on your turbo is connected directly to a vacuum supply, holding the wastegate closed at all times. This will be causing the car to trigger a MIL and potentially limp mode if it sees the turbo overboosting regularly. If I were you, I'd set it up like this:
This layout will disable the EGR valve and air doser (increasing fuel economy, lowering smoke levels and sharpening throttle response) as well as allowing the turbocharger to build boost and function properly. You can discard all the old vacuum lines that will no longer be used, which makes things significantly easier to work with (but make sure you don't leave any leaks in the system). You'll be amazed at the difference after this, it'll feel like a new car. (NOTE: Make sure you leave all 3 EV's with their electrical connector plugged IN)
If you don't want to lose the EGR + doser system (no idea why you'd keep them, they are a hindrance and clog the intake manifold), I will do you another drawing showing how to have all 3 active, but I'd strongly recommend you follow my advice on this one.
Best Regards,
Ben.
