ml5t help
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ml5t help
hi people.
just after some advice for my 309 turbo conversion. Ive fitted an ml5t gearbox with hydraulic clutch, and ive got it linked up with a d8 slave, hydraulic hose, and fittings to a wilwood master cylinder in a pedal box. Im bleeding it by opening the reservoir and pushing the slave cylinder rod inwards whilst it is lower than the master cylinder. I get air bubles, and also get a firm pedal, however, the clutch never disengages.
1) is there a certain way to assemble these clutches and release bearings? i have simply put the bearing into the fork and then when the gearbox is on the block i pulled the fork through the slave hole until the circlip clipped into place. The fork seems solid (if i force it i cannot pull the bearing away by hand) so i presume its in place ok?
2) does anybody have any better ways of bleeding a d8 slave?
3) how far should the rod be into the slave? i find that i can push it about an inch and hear a small click, but then it goes another inch or so? should it be all the way in, or just halfway?
Many thanks in advance.
bob
just after some advice for my 309 turbo conversion. Ive fitted an ml5t gearbox with hydraulic clutch, and ive got it linked up with a d8 slave, hydraulic hose, and fittings to a wilwood master cylinder in a pedal box. Im bleeding it by opening the reservoir and pushing the slave cylinder rod inwards whilst it is lower than the master cylinder. I get air bubles, and also get a firm pedal, however, the clutch never disengages.
1) is there a certain way to assemble these clutches and release bearings? i have simply put the bearing into the fork and then when the gearbox is on the block i pulled the fork through the slave hole until the circlip clipped into place. The fork seems solid (if i force it i cannot pull the bearing away by hand) so i presume its in place ok?
2) does anybody have any better ways of bleeding a d8 slave?
3) how far should the rod be into the slave? i find that i can push it about an inch and hear a small click, but then it goes another inch or so? should it be all the way in, or just halfway?
Many thanks in advance.
bob
Re: ml5t help
you should bleed by keeping res topped up and pushing master, else you might have air in master / line.
as long as its cliped i guess its ok.
from memory it didnt move far for a pedal push.
as long as its cliped i guess its ok.
from memory it didnt move far for a pedal push.
- steve_earwig
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Re: ml5t help
I'm wondering why you used a D8 slave, wouldn't one from a D9 with an actual bleed nipple on it be better? It sounds like all you're doing is moving air up & down the line without actually getting rid of it. You really need the fluid going all the way through.
I understand what you're doing though, what you could try is pushing the slave rod in quickly and pulling/pushing it out again slowly - if the fluid moves quickly it takes air bubbles with it but when it moves slowly it leaves them behind. But it'll take ages and if there's air in the slave then you'll never get it out.
I understand what you're doing though, what you could try is pushing the slave rod in quickly and pulling/pushing it out again slowly - if the fluid moves quickly it takes air bubbles with it but when it moves slowly it leaves them behind. But it'll take ages and if there's air in the slave then you'll never get it out.
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: ml5t help
im using a d8 because the d9 has that stupid connection for the hose (looks like a plastic union on servicebox? ) If i cant get this to work ill have to buy a d9 one with pipework and cut the pipe work and attach a brake union to it. Bit of a ball ache when ive already brought parts though.
alladdin, do you mean push the master cylinder whilst pushing the slave? or just the master cylinder? if i push just the master it doesnt seem to do anything at all.
alladdin, do you mean push the master cylinder whilst pushing the slave? or just the master cylinder? if i push just the master it doesnt seem to do anything at all.
- steve_earwig
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Re: ml5t help
It can't be the usual union as it0s got a seal on it
No idea what that's about but I get your point. Perhaps if you still can't get the clutch to play ball it might be worth grabbing one from the scrappies to investigate.
Btw what did your ML5T come out of, did it come with the engine?

Btw what did your ML5T come out of, did it come with the engine?
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: ml5t help
If memory serves it's just a metal pipe with a flared end and a plastic collar...bobdylan55 wrote:im using a d8 because the d9 has that stupid connection for the hose (looks like a plastic union on servicebox? ) If i cant get this to work ill have to buy a d9 one with pipework and cut the pipe work and attach a brake union to it. Bit of a ball ache when ive already brought parts though.
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
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Re: ml5t help
i meant i cannot join the hose to the slave because its a plastic union into the slave. The only way around it would be to scrap the hose completely and use the standard metal pipe that comes from peugeot and union it straight into a 3/8 unf for the master cylinder. Could be the easier option but my budget is running low. (already spent close to £5k)
Re: ml5t help
sorry i didnt realise you cant bleed a d8 at slave. try bleeding at slave by loosning union ?
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Re: ml5t help
the union is riveted in but i have tried loosening the hose at the slave end whilst pumping the pedal and i now can almost disengage the clutch. Its like when you slip the clutch. Ive been told i need a 0.8 size master cylinder
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Re: ml5t help
Is that metric or imperial? 

Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: ml5t help
0.8mm would be a bit small....
ive sorted the problem now people.
i had to redrill a hole into the pedal which sat higher up giving a different pivot point. This has given a bit more travel on the cylinder for the same pedal movement. The clutch now disengages and i can turn the engine over without the car moving.
thanks guys
ive sorted the problem now people.
i had to redrill a hole into the pedal which sat higher up giving a different pivot point. This has given a bit more travel on the cylinder for the same pedal movement. The clutch now disengages and i can turn the engine over without the car moving.
thanks guys
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- 1.8 8v
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Re: ml5t help
cheers, ill have to get up my project thread at some point for you all to gander at 
