Not your usual air con recirculation flap problem

[Welly]

That's very clever Steve. You persistence with these fiddly jobs never ceases to amaze and impress me

[steve_earwig]

I certainly couldn't afford to replace it at the prices here now and, with the amount of stinky old lorries here, it's something I'd like to have working (Hmm, come to think of it I was wondering why I could still smell 'em )

That's the ethic here though, fix it until it can't be fixed any more, then make do without. There's very few breakers here and ordering stuff from abroad is a real lottery - I asked - turns out how much is charged is down to the woman (yes, most of them are) doing the inspection, if she's feeling in a good mood it might be nothing but if she's got a headache or she's feeling in an evil mood due to the phases of the moon or whatever she'll slap the full rate on it.

[FarmerPug]

Anyone could just buy a new motor, but it takes skill to actually take it apart and fix the spline the way you did it, good on ye.

[r1150gsclark]

If anybody is interested, I have just replaced my actuator bought from Neat Automotive Comonents for £75, as opposed to Peugeot's £100. They are a Peugeot parts specialist situated in West Drayton, and do mail order. You can get them on www.neatcarparts.com, or Tel No: 01895 907050

[FarmerPug]

thats a fantastic website, com2000s for £99.99 thanks for sharing that.

[r1150gsclark]

No problem, glad to share info

[steve_earwig]

thats a useful thing to know if it goes. Can you put it into the kb with your powers as a moderator

Dammit, now I wish I'd taken some pictures

I'm resurrecting this thread because my repair only lasted until summer 2011. I managed to get one from ebay (new, about 28 quid plus the postage but somehow avoided customs) but then my back went and there's been all this sillyness with the toyoyo and I kind of forgot about it. However, the yoyo is off the road once again so I'm back to the comfyness of the Pug and yesterday I was behind this stinky truck and it all came back to me

So out comes the glovebox once more. I don't know about right-hookers but on my lefty the screw at the back of the glovebox is an absolute pig to get to. All the screws are torx but for this one I have to use my left hand to get a 1/4" drive ratchet up behind the glovebox and wiggle my right hand through the hole in the end of the dash, past all the sharp metalwork (claret everywhere again ) so I can keep the torx bit pressed into the screw while I wind the ratchet up and down with the fingertips of my left hand.

So, after a trip to the first aid box, I took the motor out again. The pinion just turned round freely so I took it to bits again to find the top half turns against the bottom - the file fragment is still in there but only seems to be firmly glued to the outer part of the pinion, the only thing keeping that part on is the blob of glue on the end of the file inside the gear. I've retained it for further investigation and for when the new one inevitably fails

One thing I don't understand is how we're supposed line the gears up without the use of a 9 volt battery. I thought perhaps it came already in the right position so I lined it up as best I could at the end of the flap's travel, started the car up and pressed the button but it didn't actually do anything, so I went off to look for my battery snap (which I couldn't find I knew exactly where it was before I tidied the boiler house up but... In the end I soldered some bits of wire onto a 9 volt battery). I lined up the Gs again and slipped it in.

Btw if you put your finger over the top of it you can feel when the lobe with the G on it (or D presumably) is in the corresponding recess in the wheel on the fan housing.

One almost impossible to get to screw later, it's all back together and I don't have to suffer everyone's stink

[D9406]

I've got one like that. Driving up the motorway the other week with a car load of people and 2 wet dogs the windscreen fogged up and I couldn't clear it unless I opened the windows. Took the pollen filter out when I got home and saw the flap was shut, tried the recirc button, nothing. Stripped the glovebox out, with the inevitable cuts to hands, and when I pulled the motor out the splined spindle was snapped off exactly like the one pictured. Got a replacement from scrappy, bloke just crowbarred the glovebox out, and replaced, problem solved. When I put the glovebox back I replaced the 3 screws behind the back panel of the glovebox with nuts and bolts ready for next time.
The motor was working fine so no reason for it to snap, it wasn't forced it just snapped. I have kept the old one and am going to pin it together and try araldite.
My original gear didn't have G and D on it but the one that came with the replacement motor did. I just shut the flap manually plugged the motor into the electrics of the car, operated the recirc button so that the motor would be in the shut position and then bolted it into place, no problems with lining anything up and it opens and shuts as it should.

[steve_earwig]

I think the ecu runs the motor for a few seconds each way, which is fair enough if the gears were strong enough to take it but obviously they're not really up to the job so either the spindle breaks or the gears strip.

I must be missing something when I'm lining it up, I did try putting the flap at either end of its travel and slipping the motor in but I couldn't exactly see what I was doing (mirror next time?) without linging up the Gs which I could actually feel with my fingers.

I'm not exactly sure which screws you replaced with nuts & bolts, all but one of them on mine were easy to get to, it's just that one at the back which is a swine. I did toy briefly with replacing it with something easier but it seemed like a lot of messing about for something I might not have to touch again. The odd thing is there's a hole in the top of the glovebox which would allow access to the screw if it could be fitted the other way around.

[D9406]

The 3 screws I replaced were, the one behind the cover on the end of the dash. Behind the cover are 2 screws which are easy to get to and 1 which is further back and goes through a metal brace and then into the rear glovebox panel. This is the one that can be got at , nearly, through the removable panel in the top of the glovebox that is secured by a small self tapper. The second screw is by the blower unit and has to be accessed from underneath and behind the rear glovebox panel, I removed the square fastner from the glovebox panel and used a fatter self tapping hex bolt that was inserted from the front on reassembly. The third joins the glovebox panel to the fascia near the radio, again I removed the fastner and used a self tapping hex bolt, I then used a 1/4" drive ratchet to fix it in place. Much easier than trying to get a screwdriver in there. The screws along the top and the 2 on the end were left as standard. Dead easy to remove now.

[steve_earwig]

Weirdness I was expecting things to be a mirror image, more or less, but that sounds completely different. Inside the glovebox box are 4 screws: three at the top, one in the back, and the bastard son of Satan screw up the top, which sounds the same save for the removable panel (maybe on earlier cars but it still wouldn't have helped), then there's just the 2 under the end cover like yours. There are no screws the other end by the radio, the whole thing just slots behind the dash panel there.



Ah well, I was wondering if I should do a how to for removing the glovebox but it would be rather pointless.

[jonsowman]

Here are some pictures

I just plugged the new one in and used the recirc button to move it to the right position, and unplugged it about halfway through the travel and slotted it in. Took a couple of attempts.