Electrician Help Please.

[FarmerPug]

Any electricians?
Im wiring up my shed, but the old one everything was wired up in series which for safety was bad. So i want to wire up one of them boxes that contain the trip switches, my uncle has a huge box full of the trip switches, but ive never wired them up before, do i need one of these first:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wylex-5-Way-Consu ... 1925wt_907
how do these work do you put in the supply power then get 5 sets of power out, all with individual trips?

[omega]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wylex-5-Way-Consu ... 1925wt_907
how do these work do you put in the supply power then get 5 sets of power out, all with individual trips?[/quote]

yes

[FarmerPug]

Great stuff, i assume the trip switches are a uniform size, but the ones of my uncles were wylex anyhow.
Is 5 enough in your opinion. Its only for a she

[omega]

1 lights
2 sockets
3 maybe a 32 amp for welder/compressor

so i would think so

[Catflem]

5 should easily be enough for a shed.

1 for lighting, and 4 for power.

Different makes of trip switch can be slightly deeper than each other, and the live and Neutral positions may not line up correctly if you're using a mixture of makes, which can be a pita when you're connecting them to the buzz bar (bus-bar), so its best to stick to one make.

[DiscoPol]

Make sure you get the right board for the breakers Farmer,

there are loads of different WYLEX breakers out there, also be aware as a breaker trips it will slowly become weaker, if the old ones are from an unkown source watch out,

i would recommend "b" type for the lights and "c" type for the sockets and if you are gonna stick in a big supply for a welder i would say "d" type for that,

the ratings all refer to the "curve" of the mcb, "b" type is ok for lighting, "c" is ideal for your sockets if you are going to run drills etc etc and the big old "d" type is motor rated so will handle the starting load of a welder well.

If you are in doubt stick up a piccy of the breakers and i will tell you if the board you were looking at will do the job, its a minefield, most of em can be butchered to fit but if possible lets do the job properly eh?

oh and you will be getting it all tested and part P certified wont you?

[FarmerPug]

that wee guide on type a b c and d is very useful thanks
ive no plan to use a welder here, perhaps the odd use of an angle grinder now and then. Ill post a pic of these trip switches in the box.

As for the part c certified bit. The old shed never had one, what is it.

[DiscoPol]

Part P is:

Part P
The Building Regulations are managed by the Department for Communities and Local Government (DCLG). Part P is an amendment of the Building Regulations introduced by the government, effective from January 1st 2005.

The Part P requirement is that “Reasonable provision shall be made in the design and installation of electrical installations in order to protect persons operating, maintaining or altering the installations from fire or injury.”

In short, electrical installations must be safe! Part P applies to fixed electrical installations in dwellings (including gardens and shared amenities in blocks of flats) and affects many of the typical jobs undertaken by electrical contractors, particularly work carried out in kitchens and bathrooms.

Work affected by Part P is subject to notification to, and inspection by, building control bodies. However, calling in a building control officer takes time and costs money. The solution to this problem is self-certification.

Part P Competent Person Schemes like ELECSA were introduced at the same time as Part P to permit firms that had been assessed as sufficiently competent, to self-certify that their work complies with all applicable requirements of the Building Regulations.

Self-certification benefits the householder because by using a Competent Person they don’t have to pay building control fees or submit a building notice. In addition, householders have the important reassurance that by using a Competent Person, they are using a firm that has been independently assessed and certified as competent to carry out the work.

In addition, all authorised Competent Persons schemes are required to give the customers of their registered installer firms the opportunity to purchase an insurance backed warranty against the risk that the work carried out does not comply with the Building Regulations.

For the firm registered with a competent person scheme such as ELECSA, notifying the work to building control is done through their scheme provider. The contractor provides the details of the work done to the scheme provider who then notifies the local building control department and issues a building compliance certificate to the householder.

[FarmerPug]

thanks.

[Doggy]

Shouldn't we be mentioning the odd earthing rod and perchance an RCD?

(After all Farmer's been well behaved recently, be a shame to loose him)

[/2d worth]

[FarmerPug]

Wont an rcd do the same as a trip

[steve_earwig]

Look up "residual current device" and "miniature circuit breaker" on wiki. Where is the power coming from and how is it getting to your shed?

[DiscoPol]

Good points being made farmer, ignore the part P garbage though i was only joking I think might be advised to get it checked afterwards though, but the rcd comment is valid as is the earth spike, my advice would be a "100a RCD incomer 30Ma" as the load wont affect it but earth leakage will, and to be honest thats the bit that will kill you
that way you get to use the existing breakers but will have RCD protection.

(2zloty)

[FarmerPug]

actually come to think of it the old setup did have an rcd coming into it, had a test reset button of course that should be no problem.
I think some are lying around can i get one to fit into a wylex box?
As for where the power is coming from it isnt there yet, but its planned to be the wire right beside it, which we dont know how to activate, a deceased electrician uncle did some of this and so finding out how to get power to this wire will be an issue. For now its just a case of getting the wiring in so i can then add the insulation and panel the shed.
In this pic:

thats the supply hopefully coming from the grey wire, the big cable is in that metal post, just isnt live yet.

[steve_earwig]

Is that just a bit of flex or something decent? Ideally you want something like 6mm twin and earth straight from the main fusebox in the house.

Btw is that your marijuana plantation off to the right?