another problem at 100mph
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another problem at 100mph
again not a problem on public roads but when doing over 100mph the brakes stop working yet if you let the spped drop to below 100mph on its own they work fine again.
Any ideas would be helpfull
Any ideas would be helpfull
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- 3.0 24v
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Similar to mine then, I've been wondering if the belt is slipping at that speed causing the ABS to fail and then lose power to the brakes. Hows ur steering? As I think its all connected to the same belt.
UK Open Drift Championship 2011 Driver #80
Vehicles I own:-
1999 S Peugeot 406 LX 1.9TD (90% WVO, 10% Petrol)
2000 W Ford Transit LWB High Roof 2.5D
1997 R E36 BMW 328i Saloon (Drift/Track Car)
1995 N E36 BMW 328i Saloon (Spare Parts Car)

SOLD --- 2001 Y 406 GTX 2.0 HDi 110bhp
Vehicles I own:-
1999 S Peugeot 406 LX 1.9TD (90% WVO, 10% Petrol)
2000 W Ford Transit LWB High Roof 2.5D
1997 R E36 BMW 328i Saloon (Drift/Track Car)
1995 N E36 BMW 328i Saloon (Spare Parts Car)

SOLD --- 2001 Y 406 GTX 2.0 HDi 110bhp
- Welly
- The moderator formally known as Welton
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There is not a 'belt' connected to any part of the braking system.
If the pedal goes very hard with no feel then I think it is more likely to be a loss of Vacuum to the servo, Diesel cars have a VAC pump to give servo asisstance to the brakes there is a possibilty here that at continued high revs the VAC pump is not producing enough VAC.
The loss of VAC would also affect the EGR and Turbo actuator mechanisms and could give rise to electrical faults as there are sensors conected to the solenoid valves for these.
Could be worth checking in conjunction with the Alternator.
(and stop fibbing about driving on Private Roads)
If the pedal goes very hard with no feel then I think it is more likely to be a loss of Vacuum to the servo, Diesel cars have a VAC pump to give servo asisstance to the brakes there is a possibilty here that at continued high revs the VAC pump is not producing enough VAC.
The loss of VAC would also affect the EGR and Turbo actuator mechanisms and could give rise to electrical faults as there are sensors conected to the solenoid valves for these.
Could be worth checking in conjunction with the Alternator.
(and stop fibbing about driving on Private Roads)

Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
TBH mate, you're right at the upper edge of the envelope at those speeds and you can't expect it to be reliable for long at 3 figure velocities - they might do it, but were never really intended to do so. Still, have you had your alternator/rectifier checked out yet? An electrical issue will cause ABS problems, which can manifest them selves in funny/unpredicatble ways.
An BS problem will have no affect on the brakes whatsoever apart from stopping them locking up, the brakes will function perfectly with or without the abs module plugged in, which you can try yourself by unplugging the electrical connector from the module.
If the brakes are not working in the truest sense of the word then it will most likely be a servo problem.
Do you literally mean they do not work over a 100mph or do you mean they need a very firm shove? (as in pulling on the steering wheel to put pressure through the pedal)
If the brakes are not working in the truest sense of the word then it will most likely be a servo problem.
Do you literally mean they do not work over a 100mph or do you mean they need a very firm shove? (as in pulling on the steering wheel to put pressure through the pedal)
Glad I'm not the only one thinking that.turbolag wrote:TBH mate, you're right at the upper edge of the envelope at those speeds and you can't expect it to be reliable for long at 3 figure velocities - they might do it, but were never really intended to do so. Still, have you had your alternator/rectifier checked out yet? An electrical issue will cause ABS problems, which can manifest them selves in funny/unpredicatble ways.

- Welly
- The moderator formally known as Welton
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And beyond my friend, only to find this morning my Check Engine Light came on, followed by a severe lack of boostageBlue406 wrote:Huh? Did ol' Welton push the 100mph barrier then?Welton wrote:I wonder if I 'broke' mine yesterday?

Having a 'Code Read' tomorrow so will let you all know.
I hope and pray it is not the fuel pump, because I may aswell just give up

Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
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- 3.0 24v
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Which is true in a way, but the 110 HDi has a Supposedly top speed of 120mph, which it should be able to do without giving any problems. Obviously the longer you drive at over 100mph the likely something will eventually break on it.Blue406 wrote:Glad I'm not the only one thinking that.turbolag wrote:TBH mate, you're right at the upper edge of the envelope at those speeds and you can't expect it to be reliable for long at 3 figure velocities - they might do it, but were never really intended to do so. Still, have you had your alternator/rectifier checked out yet? An electrical issue will cause ABS problems, which can manifest them selves in funny/unpredicatble ways.
UK Open Drift Championship 2011 Driver #80
Vehicles I own:-
1999 S Peugeot 406 LX 1.9TD (90% WVO, 10% Petrol)
2000 W Ford Transit LWB High Roof 2.5D
1997 R E36 BMW 328i Saloon (Drift/Track Car)
1995 N E36 BMW 328i Saloon (Spare Parts Car)

SOLD --- 2001 Y 406 GTX 2.0 HDi 110bhp
Vehicles I own:-
1999 S Peugeot 406 LX 1.9TD (90% WVO, 10% Petrol)
2000 W Ford Transit LWB High Roof 2.5D
1997 R E36 BMW 328i Saloon (Drift/Track Car)
1995 N E36 BMW 328i Saloon (Spare Parts Car)

SOLD --- 2001 Y 406 GTX 2.0 HDi 110bhp
Don't start that flawed logic again. Its getting tiresome. That top speed is calculated with a brand new engine with little mileage on it.GeordieBoy wrote:Which is true in a way, but the 110 HDi has a Supposedly top speed of 120mph, which it should be able to do without giving any problems. Obviously the longer you drive at over 100mph the likely something will eventually break on it.Blue406 wrote:Glad I'm not the only one thinking that.turbolag wrote:TBH mate, you're right at the upper edge of the envelope at those speeds and you can't expect it to be reliable for long at 3 figure velocities - they might do it, but were never really intended to do so. Still, have you had your alternator/rectifier checked out yet? An electrical issue will cause ABS problems, which can manifest them selves in funny/unpredicatble ways.
You cannot expect your car to do that today.
Besides, these cars a built to cruise at 70/80 mph with a family in the back. Nothing more.
You want 100mph more often... get something new thats built for it. It really is that simple.

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